This can't be.... [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: This can't be....


Junkyard Dawg
Jul 16th, 04, 3:31 PM
Well this afternoon I attemped to set the timing on my stock low compression 350 with HEI. I set the idle for 750 rpm and pulled out the timing light. I had intended on setting the initial to about 16-18 degrees advanced since the light weight springs in the distributor give an 18 degree advance curve at around 3k.

First things first...hooked up the light then started the engine. As I was trying to start it the engine was acting funny....like if it was trying to kick back on me while I was trying to start the car. What gives here? It's never done this before.

Anyhow, I finally got it started. With the engine running at 750 rpm and the vacuum advance unhooked and plugged I took a reading. At first I couldn't see the mark on the balancer so then I turned the dial (it's a dialback timing light) towards the right from zero.....to my suprise I did not start seeing the timing mark on the balancer until I had the dial sitting in the 55 degree avance mark! :eek:

So then I undid the distributor hold down and turned the distributor....wouldn't you like to know there was really no way of getting it back down to 18 initial like I wanted it? If I tried to retard the timing the engine would slow down and the best I could maybe get would be like 40 something initial according to my light. If I advanced it the engine would speed up a little and kinda start running rough.

So watching the tach I adjusted the timing where the engine seemed to run it's best and then took it around the block. Didn't run any better than it's ever done.

So I don't know what to say....I don't seem to understand what the problem is....can anyone shed any info?

Thanks.

Wally
Jul 16th, 04, 3:38 PM
I've seen the weights go over center on a HEI and kind of lock the advance. I've had the braze break on top of the shaft and you can't ever set the timing, it keeps moving. I've had a light turn into junk, the module turn to crap.

Was the car running okay before you tried to set the timing???

Junkyard Dawg
Jul 16th, 04, 4:11 PM
No.

It idles ok (sometimes backfires thru carb and/or exaust) and with a TH350 and a 4.10 posi it pulls hard from a dead stop but it seems like once you get past 3k it stops pulling and feels sluggish.

Everyone said check and set the timing so I tried doing that. Now I'm stumped. :confused:

Pat Kelley
Jul 16th, 04, 4:53 PM
I'd check what Wally suggest. Pull the rotor off and have a look. Wouldn't be a bad idea to lube the weights and springs while there.

79943
Jul 16th, 04, 5:44 PM
are you positive you have the distributor set on the right tooth? almost sounds to me like it might be off by one.

zefhix
Jul 16th, 04, 5:48 PM
Originally posted by 79943:
are you positive you have the distributor set on the right tooth? almost sounds to me like it might be off by one. My thoughts exactly. I'd pull the distributor and re-set it. :cool:

Junkyard Dawg
Jul 16th, 04, 6:29 PM
I already pulled the weights and added a small amount of lube.

How would I go abouts resetting it? Which way does it need reset?

TJC
Jul 16th, 04, 6:36 PM
You're sure you were on the right plug wire..... Hook it up to #3 and it'll read just like you described.

mls48341
Jul 16th, 04, 7:19 PM
Is it possible that the outer ring of your
balancer may have spun?I'd put the motor at tdc
and redrop the distributor,just don't use the
balancer mark to determine tdc,use a piston stop.

RB69SS396Conv
Jul 16th, 04, 9:01 PM
Sounds like you have a factory balancer for the 12:00 timing mark location, and an aftermarket or early-model timing tab for the 1:30 timing mark location.

Wolfplace
Jul 16th, 04, 9:59 PM
Originally posted by RB69SS396Conv:
Sounds like you have a factory balancer for the 12:00 timing mark location, and an aftermarket or early-model timing tab for the 1:30 timing mark location. =
My thoughts also, sounds like maybe this or the timing mark is not correct for whatever reason.

BTW, it doesn't make any difference if the distributor is off one tooth or 10 teeth.
If you use #1 wire to time the engine it will not care where the wires end up in the cap as long as they are in the right order & the timing marks are right.

baddbob71
Jul 16th, 04, 11:12 PM
Something is definately wrong with your timing marks, the engine shouldn't even be able to start with 55 degrees initial. I'd get a piston stop and find where actual top dead center is for cylinder 1 and make a new mark on the balancer.

68454SS
Jul 16th, 04, 11:38 PM
Ditto - my 468 was doing almost exactly what you are describing and I discovered that the balancer was coming apart on me. I had to make a mark on the outer hub where tdc#1 REALLY was and set timing from there. That is, until I got my new balancer.

Junkyard Dawg
Jul 17th, 04, 6:42 AM
Hey guys....

Yes I did have the timing light clamped to the #1 wire (which is the front left)

I'm not sure about the balancer coming apart....how does this happen?

Now the timing tab....I will say when I first got the car the engine had no timing tab so I went and purchased one. The cover said it was good for engines with 6, 7 and 8 inch balancers since I didn't know which one I had. Perhaps I don't have the right timing tab?

RB69SS396Conv
Jul 17th, 04, 7:22 AM
Right, you have the wrong timing tab.

There is no bolt-on, or other style, of replacement timing tab to go with the balancers with the 12:00 mark location. The timing tab for that system is welded onto the front of the timing cover. No aftermarket TCs that I have ever seen have that tab. The only way to get a timing mark to match that kind of balancer, which is the one used on virtually all SBCs from the late 70s on, is to buy a GM timing cover.

The only other alternatives are to buy a balancer with one of the early-model mark locations (there are 2 possibilities), and verify that whatever timing tab you have matches it, and replace the mark if necessary; or, locate #1 TDC by measurement, and make your own mark on your existing balancer.

Junkyard Dawg
Jul 17th, 04, 8:49 AM
Wow...I was never aware that the engines like mine had a 12 o clock balancer....much less a welded on timing tab from the factory. How do you time those type? Look down inbetween the legs on the water pump and aim your light overhead or something?

Well, if that's the case....is it possible that perhaps using my dial back light and this current timing tab I can somehow get it set just right? Like say perhaps the difference between the 0 mark on a 12 o clock balancer and the 0 mark on a 1:30 balancer are XX amount of degrees in difference? And maybe just subtract that number from the number I'm seeing on the timing tab and go from there?

Junkyard Dawg
Jul 17th, 04, 9:05 AM
Well I'll be damned RB69SS396Conv.....I just went out and looked.....and low and behold there was the timing tab right on top of the balancer in the 12 o clock position just like you mentioned!

graemlins/clonk.gif Man I don't know if I should feel dumb or what...I have never in my life saw a timing tab where it sits...I've always seen them in the 1:30 position.

Well I guess now I need to get out there and try this again and report back with an update.

79943
Jul 17th, 04, 12:17 PM
"BTW, it doesn't make any difference if the distributor is off one tooth or 10 teeth.
If you use #1 wire to time the engine it will not care where the wires end up in the cap as long as they are in the right order & the timing marks are right."

if i go out to my car, pull the distributor that is set correctly right now, rotate the distributor one or two gear teeth, drop it back in, i will never have enough adjustment travel to bring that timing back in.