I have a 12 bolt posi in my '68 Chevelle. If I break the tires loose at all they immediately begin to bounce. Will ladder bars help this problem? Any advice is welcome.

Do a search here and type in "wheel hop" you'll find lots of info graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Ladder bars are primitive. They will make your Chevelle ride like a dump truck. graemlins/sad.gif

Try (1)better shocks, (2)new spings, (3)SSM lift bars, etc..

Rod

But to answer your question, yes, they'll button up a weak suspension. I found out when I took them off the car! :eek: :mad:

They hook good, but scored the axle housing and tweaked one of the frame braces. They needed to be snugged down some, then I started checking them to make sure they were tight. Harsh ride. And again, when removed, it was wheel hop city.
Like I could spin the thing across a local 1/4 mile bridge and hop all the way across. Sick. redface.gif They're an unbelievable band-aid IMHO.

There are no hop upper control arms that you can't see, that I'm told work well. I personaly use Lakewood ladder bar, because I like the look and they stopped my wheel hope.

I use lakewood no-hop bars with stock boxed upper and lower control arms. They work well for me.

My Chevelle Page (http://home.swbell.net/kenladd/Home.html)

3830 lbs
All Steel with full interior
10.25 1/4 mile @ 130 MPH

We had the same trouble, under launch it would hop like a bunny.
installed new springs,shocks and all the rear bushings. graemlins/thumbsup.gif all the parts were stock from Ground up. now this thing hooks up great. no hop
just some smoke and a lot of go.check out your rear bushings,they might be original. good luck.

Yup, thats where all the slop was for me. Did boxed lowers, sway, air bag, stiffer rear springs and KYBs. STILL HAD HOP. Finally earned a set of Hotchkis uppers as a barter for some carb work I did, and SHAZZAM - once the old pumpkin bushings were replaced, it worked well.

I'd start with the pumpkin bushings FIRST next time.

BTW, now its a very nice riding car that works the slicks pretty good too!

I also use Lakewoods, having replaced Edelbrock no-hops and the sway bar.Only gained .02 in my 60-fts (from 1.605 down to 1.585).Hotchkis boxed lowers and stock un-boxed uppers(with rubber upper bushings,steel lower bushings to differential) complete the rear set-up.I like the stability gained over the flex of the previous way.

The causes of wheel hop is caused by two situations. The instant center is located where the suspension reacts so fast and is not controlled adequately by the shocks that the suspension loads and unloads. another reason is the suspension hits so hard that the tires are actually bouncing.
Both conditions can be corrected with either moving the instant center further out and/or lower or you can buy some good adjustable shocks and adjust both the extension and compression to control the rate of force application.

It's not just how much force you apply to the rear tires but also the rate at which you apply it to the tires.

Also what is your drivetrain. Transbrakes and 4 speeds usually sometimes require longer instant centers than a foot braked trans. (this is obviously depends on the engine power and torque curves, vehicle wt, gearing, tires, and trans.

Todd

To reiterate what RedSs454 said, you don't need any trick parts to make it work, just GOOD OEM parts!

dont go with Edelbrock no hopes the are 2 vilent they push the wheels down so hard on my car that it would jar them lose. go with the dick miller set up http://www.dickmillerracing.com/Suspen1_page.htm
the no hops are more adjustable. and if you are really going to be going with alot of power try this rear swaybar. SB601 REAR 1-3/8" SWAY BAR-64 -72 "A-BODY" WITH MOUNTING BOLTS --$179.50
http://www.hoenterprises.com/WSFF/home.asp?vCompID=27383
use a good set of lower contol arms with bolt hold for a sway bar .

I tried Edlebrock no-hops but still had hop. SSM Lift Bars fixed my problem.

i belive the rear swaybar to be the bigest help with wheel hop.when using no hops and ssm lift bars remember to go to an adjstable upper .this way you can set your pinion angle.

I use Edelbrock no-hop bars, Hotchkis adjustable uppers and boxed lowers, QA1 12-way shocks. Just got a new best 60' yesterday in 3,500' air ;)

If you go with the SSM bars, you can set the pinion angle when you install them. Negating the need to spend money on adjustable uppers.

i have nohops that ill sell . they are like new

Originally posted by Pat Kelley:
If you go with the SSM bars, you can set the pinion angle when you install them. Negating the need to spend money on adjustable uppers. Pat,

I'm curious, how did you determine what pinion angle to use without doing any testing? Are the SSM pinion angle fixed once you drill the hole (sounds like it)?

Do any of you guys run the adjustable hotchkis upper and lowers with frame braces? I am looking in to buying the kit very soon.

Originally posted by kjett:
Are the SSM pinion angle fixed once you drill the hole (sounds like it)? [/QB]Yes it is, I just installed a set. I went ahead and bought some adjustable uppers just in case I need to change or adjust my pinion angle.

yes Ken...its fixed once its set. I've put adjustable uppers on mine,but havent played with the pinon angle as yet.

Mom's new '65 Chevelle, 195hp/283, three on the tree with no more then recap 8.00/14 el-cheapo, real slicks would spin two feet AND take off like a frog!!

BUT I did get the spider gears turning around to get back to the line..

I know it didn't have much REAL power but I ALWAYS liked it's rear suspension much better when compared to my '67 Camaro's leaf's!!!

I rode in a '64 or '65 Mustang that had L/B's under it and a really high rpm 289"er with a four speed in it for like a block AND couldn't believe the violent nature of the Beast!!!

NO THANK'S!!!!

pdq67

the hotchkis braces are a must have.

I have adjustable uppers W/SSM's on mine.Pinion angle is at -4deg and Monroes in the corners.Tires plant nicely,body raises, does just what it should. No hopping 1.74 60ft.(new)

MY VELLE (http://www.prestage.com/Member+Pages/1201.aspx)