505 TD with 6.8" Rods
10.6 to 1 compression
AFR CNC Chambered 325cc heads with 114cc/CC
Lunatic 60234 Voodoo Solid Roller-255/263 .680/.680 110 LSA installed at -2
CC Pro Magnum 1.7's
Dart 4500 Intake
Barry Grant- King Demon carb ( 1090 rated the tech actually says they flow 1300 CFM )
Hooker Comp headers 2" Primaries
3.5 inch exhaust with 2 3/4 H-pipe into Hooker AeroChambers turned down at rear end.
1/2 fuel line with Edelbrock 160 GPH Billet pump up the regulator mounted on the wheel well then 2 -6 feeds to the carb.
MSD Pro Billet distributor
MSD 6al with 7k chip
MSD variable timing control ( knob mounted in cab )
CSR Billet electric water pump
100 amp 1 wire

Transmission
Turbo 400 fresh with High end Hughes rebuild kit
2.48 stock planetaries
4l80e Drum with 34 element sprag
Hughes full manual valve body
Deep pan and trans cooler

Converter
4500 Pro Edge 9.5 inch
Looks like im getting about 3200 foot brake and 4k ish flash out of it


Rear End
Ford 9inch
Nodular case with Daytona pinion support
31 Spline Ford Racing Detroit Locker with Polished internals ( Nascar )
4.11 Polished gears ( Nascar )
Moser 31 Spline axles
Solid pads

Tires
Front- MT 28inch front runners
Rear -MT ET Street 28x12.5x15 ( 10 inch Tread )
on 8.5 inch Centerline wheels


So why does my MPH suck with this combo? I dont think the stall is looser on the big end either so it should be Higher. The engine makes plenty of TQ but for some reason not enough HP.

I got some 2 1/8 headers im eyeing.

at my weight and 102 MPH it shows me making around 600 HP :(

It doesn't matter, that biotch sounds wicked enough to scare everybody else off!
I agree, I'd expect it to be about 100hp or so higher with that combo.

The compression is kind of low and you don't mention what the total weight or the rear end gear ratio you have. I also haven't heard much good about those carburetors. If the car is near 4000 lbs. it isn't likely to run much faster, although it might go a little quicker. How much stall speed does your converter give you?

9.11 @116, this on the same run? :) did I read this right? got a wide-band O2 sensor? verified timing marks and total advance?

verified full throttle opening with somebody sitting in the car and you looking in the carb?

9.11 @116, this on the same run? :) did I read this right? got a wide-band O2 sensor? verified timing marks and total advance?

verified full throttle opening with somebody sitting in the car and you looking in the carb? 1000' E.T. and speed, Tom.

Did you degree the cam? That cam looks pretty good for your combo, but if it's too far advanced that might explain the lack of HP. The converter is probably holding you back a ton. What's your rpms at the stripe?
My 540(little more CR and 340 heads) has a stall of 6200rpm. weighs 3500lbs and the first pass with no tuning went 6.19 @ 112(then the hood went though the windshield)

sorry for the confusion, the times in my sig are my best at each increment. So i dont have a 1000ft since i picked up the car from 7.04 to the 6.75 in the 8th. I would assume its running closer to 8.6 in the 1000 now.

I used a ATI Super Dampener and adjustable timing indicator. I made sure to double check zero both while degreeing the cam and with a dial indicator.

The best pass was 6.75@101.97 with 38 degree's total timing. I was going to take timing out till it slowed down but ran out of passes.

The car weighs 3700 with me in it and has 4.11's in it with a 28 inch tire.

I plan to get cranking compression and verify my WOT O2 readings this weekend. Ill update with this info.

I think I would be suspect of 38* timing w/93 octane and a 10.6CR.
Mike

I wouldnt say you were that far off. I've run a best of 6.51@ 104.02 1/8th @ 3860lbs. You have a lot more of an induction system than I do same compression,bigger heads,intake and carb, longer rods and less converter. My best mph came in 7-900ft d/a, last weekend in 3600ft d/a I was running 6.70@102mph. OH, I'm still using a stock water pump and clutch fan too ;)

Have you tried a different fuel pump? I'd like to see what that thing would do with an Aeromotive or Magnafuel pump and regulator. I know a guy with a 69 chevelle thats run 10.50s @ 130mph with a more mild 496 than your engine and 3.73 with a 30" slick. I think you should be faster.

Compression test results in
1,3,5- 190 PSI
7,2,4,6,8- All about 182 PSI i mean dead on with each other.


Bob,
Yea i dont have a meter but the baro was falling and it was actually raining at time so what near 100% realitive humidity. So its made that much of a difference? Maybe i need some good air


I forgot to update my fuel pump data Edelbrock Billet quite flow with 160 GPH at 12volts 190 GPH using an alternator at 14.4 ( like me )

Good thing i did the compression test one of the bolts came out of my crank pulley and threw my alternator belt off must have been at the track. Might be why i ran 103 off the trailer then never again. It had to be gone at the track, ive been no where else.

it could be nothing is wrong with the engine, its your driveline robbing the power. Or maybe the air quality sucks at the track? Tons of variables.

Best with my old combo was 1.44, 6.70 @ 102, 8.81, 10.60 @ 126. Concentrate on getting the combo to 60 foot and everything else will come around.

The pumping compression sounds in line with your static compression and cam specs. If the timing is where it's supposed to be, the cam degreed where it's should be, TDC is dead on and the carb is close, then I think the engines making power and isn't the problem here.

As mentioned by SS454 and Garret, the problem could be somewhere in the driveline. You could have some sort of parasitic loss inside the transmission. I had a buddy years ago that kept burning up high gear clutches after having a t-brake installed. It took two or three rebuilds till it was discovered a passage wasn't blocked properly per the instructions and a fluid path had high gear and reverse engaging at the same time during the run. Fixed the problem and the car picked up alot as well as no more burnt clutches. Not saying this is your problem, just one example of a little thing that can make a big impact on the final performance that's not even engine related.

Also, that 4000 rpm flash converter isn't helping your performance any. I understand you street drive so it's a compromise. I'd think the combination would really wake up with a minimum of 5000 rpm flash, maybe as high as 5400-5500 rpm. Assuming the suspensions up to the job, it'll hook harder, 60' quicker as well as recovering at the bottom of the shift better making quicker incrementals throughout.

If you find your WOT A/F between 12.8 to 13.2, then leave the carb alone and look elsewhere. Maybe work with squirters and pump cams. If footbraking, I'd think the large carb is gonna need/want at least 40's or 45 squirters front & rear with a 50cc pump. My 1000HP 4150 has 40's F&R with 50cc pumps. You've got larger throttle blades and venturies and it gulps more air at the hit of the throttle, you need corresponding fuel.

After that, then work on suspension and really take notes, and keep tweaking. This is where alot of ET can hide.

Did you replace the tires yet?

How is track prep?

Density Altitude can make a pretty good difference from one day to the next. The general rule of thumb is for every 150-200' in D/A change, the ET will change .01. So 1000' of D/A change is .05 in ET and every 2000' of D/A is a tenth.

Lots of things to try at the track, but only make one change at a time and watch 60' and 330' times for ET improvement and watch MPH as an indication of power gains or losses.

lastly, it's gonna take alot of time and effort to dial in a combination. It won't happen in one or two outings at the track. It could take all season running maybe 12+ times a season, could even take two whole seasons. Depends on how much effort you want to make, but I can tell you that once you reach a certain point your done looking for tenths and are happy to find .01 or .02 at a time. These small improvements will add up over time.

Don't give up, keep plugging away and it'll slowly but surely get quicker and faster. Before you know it, well see a post where the car ran it's first 9 second pass.

good luck
Todd

sorry for the confusion, the times in my sig are my best at each increment. So i dont have a 1000ft since i picked up the car from 7.04 to the 6.75 in the 8th. I would assume its running closer to 8.6 in the 1000 now.

I used a ATI Super Dampener and adjustable timing indicator. I made sure to double check zero both while degreeing the cam and with a dial indicator.

The best pass was 6.75@101.97 with 38 degree's total timing. I was going to take timing out till it slowed down but ran out of passes.

The car weighs 3700 with me in it and has 4.11's in it with a 28 inch tire.

I plan to get cranking compression and verify my WOT O2 readings this weekend. Ill update with this info. Real slicks or E.T. Drag radials would help, maybe a tenth over E.T. Streets. Gearing sounds good. A well built T-350 is worth about a tenth over a T-400. Bob West uses a twelve bolt and they use a little less power than a Ford 9" rear end. Bob also had a (1.37-60') time down at Centerville late last winter. With poor weather it's no wonder your a little off. Just a few of these changes or a little suspension work could easily pick up 2-3 tenths. Bob also has had better times with a Edelbrock RPM dual plane manifold and 1050 non dominator carburetor.

I duplicated the 1.37 at Ozark in the beginning of March also Harold. Centerville,Ar altitude is 350ft or so, Ozark is at 1400ft. 43* is good for big blocks ;)

I run 200 miles further south at Prescott, although i need to get up to Centerville to get a new 1000ft time.

Compression test results in
1,3,5- 190 PSI
7,2,4,6,8- All about 182 PSI i mean dead on with each other.

Any comments on my Cranking Pressure?

Just thought i would bring up my end gap a bit. Back in the day it was always suggested to open up your top end gap more than your 2nd because there is more heat there ect ect.

Now its suggested to set the top where they wont butt on your highest load and set the 2nd ring a little looser let so that it doesn't trap combustion gasses and lift the top ring breaking the seal and causing flutter. I set my top ring at .022 for a 250 shot of Nitrous and the 2nd Ring at .024, per new conventional wisdom. or .005 x bore and .0055 x bore. I have often wondered if this was the correct coarse of action.


I too think the cam phasing could have a little to do with the low cranking compression numbers. If i pull the balancer i was thinking of changing it 2 degree's advanced so there is a bigger swing to compare with.

I think the timing was high on those passes 38-39 with 28-29 initial. It was even higher and the car seemed to respond to lessening the timing. I had planned to roll timing out ( i have a controller in the cab ) until the car slowed down but didnt get enough passes.


Here are my thoughts on the header issue

Here is the deal though, AFR recommends a Fel Pro #1412 header gasket which uses a Port Height (in):2.130 in. Port Width (in):2.130 in. These gaskets matched up perfectly with the heads, but swallowed the header ports so it leaked terrible. I had to get a set of 2" header gaskets to match my 2inch tubes. I though think the gasket and header have to restrict the flow of the exhaust port quite a bit when there is a 1/8th inch all the way around the exhaust port blocking with a wall, the exhaust flow. It is for this reason, that i figured the use of 2 1/8 headers would work better with these heads. Given the exhaust port dimensions and the recommended header gasket one would have to assume their use is implied.

Am i thinking wrong on that?

Shawn

I run 200 miles further south at Prescott, although i need to get up to Centerville to get a new 1000ft time.



Any comments on my Cranking Pressure?

Just thought i would bring up my end gap a bit. Back in the day it was always suggested to open up your top end gap more than your 2nd because there is more heat there ect ect.

Now its suggested to set the top where they wont butt on your highest load and set the 2nd ring a little looser let so that it doesn't trap combustion gasses and lift the top ring breaking the seal and causing flutter. I set my top ring at .022 for a 250 shot of Nitrous and the 2nd Ring at .024, per new conventional wisdom. or .005 x bore and .0055 x bore. I have often wondered if this was the correct coarse of action.


I too think the cam phasing could have a little to do with the low cranking compression numbers. If i pull the balancer i was thinking of changing it 2 degree's advanced so there is a bigger swing to compare with.

I think the timing was high on those passes 38-39 with 28-29 initial. It was even higher and the car seemed to respond to lessening the timing. I had planned to roll timing out ( i have a controller in the cab ) until the car slowed down but didnt get enough passes.


Here are my thoughts on the header issue

Here is the deal though, AFR recommends a Fel Pro #1412 header gasket which uses a Port Height (in):2.130 in. Port Width (in):2.130 in. These gaskets matched up perfectly with the heads, but swallowed the header ports so it leaked terrible. I had to get a set of 2" header gaskets to match my 2inch tubes. I though think the gasket and header have to restrict the flow of the exhaust port quite a bit when there is a 1/8th inch all the way around the exhaust port blocking with a wall, the exhaust flow. It is for this reason, that i figured the use of 2 1/8 headers would work better with these heads. Given the exhaust port dimensions and the recommended header gasket one would have to assume their use is implied.

Am i thinking wrong on that?

Shawn To determine the correct header diameter go to "Headers by Ed" and he has a chart that will tell you your ideal size. In all likelyhood about 1 7/8" would be about the best. This is a common mistake and most cars have headers that are too big. Weather is probably your biggest factor although your not that far off what the combination should be capable of. My son's car at 3540 lbs. never ran faster than 10.48 and more usually 10.55-10.60 with the factory heads and that motor had 12.8-1 compression. I think you expectations are unrealistic. Most street compression cars rarely get into the 10's unless the car is a featherweight.

I run 200 miles further south at Prescott, although i need to get up to Centerville to get a new 1000ft time.



Any comments on my Cranking Pressure?

Just thought i would bring up my end gap a bit. Back in the day it was always suggested to open up your top end gap more than your 2nd because there is more heat there ect ect.

Now its suggested to set the top where they wont butt on your highest load and set the 2nd ring a little looser let so that it doesn't trap combustion gasses and lift the top ring breaking the seal and causing flutter. I set my top ring at .022 for a 250 shot of Nitrous and the 2nd Ring at .024, per new conventional wisdom. or .005 x bore and .0055 x bore. I have often wondered if this was the correct coarse of action.


I too think the cam phasing could have a little to do with the low cranking compression numbers. If i pull the balancer i was thinking of changing it 2 degree's advanced so there is a bigger swing to compare with.

I think the timing was high on those passes 38-39 with 28-29 initial. It was even higher and the car seemed to respond to lessening the timing. I had planned to roll timing out ( i have a controller in the cab ) until the car slowed down but didnt get enough passes.


Here are my thoughts on the header issue

Here is the deal though, AFR recommends a Fel Pro #1412 header gasket which uses a Port Height (in):2.130 in. Port Width (in):2.130 in. These gaskets matched up perfectly with the heads, but swallowed the header ports so it leaked terrible. I had to get a set of 2" header gaskets to match my 2inch tubes. I though think the gasket and header have to restrict the flow of the exhaust port quite a bit when there is a 1/8th inch all the way around the exhaust port blocking with a wall, the exhaust flow. It is for this reason, that i figured the use of 2 1/8 headers would work better with these heads. Given the exhaust port dimensions and the recommended header gasket one would have to assume their use is implied.

Am i thinking wrong on that?

Shawn

In my previous reply, I already stated your cranking compression pressure sounds fine to me. That's not your problem IMO.

Ring gaps sound fine as well. I don't remember where I set mine, but it was pretty close to that, so I wouldn't worry much about them either.

The header tube overlap on the exhaust port isn't a big deal either. My BMF's are the same way. Save your money on larger headers as I don't see the 2" hurting you one bit at this point.

Please refer to me previous post for my other thoughts and suggestions.

If you want to spend money somewhere, take some time to get some weight out of the car. There's no reason you can't easily get 200-300 lbs out of the car and be down in the 3400 lb range. It may help performance but also reduces stress on driveline components.

sorry for the confusion, the times in my sig are my best at each increment. So i dont have a 1000ft since i picked up the car from 7.04 to the 6.75 in the 8th. I would assume its running closer to 8.6 in the 1000 now.

I used a ATI Super Dampener and adjustable timing indicator. I made sure to double check zero both while degreeing the cam and with a dial indicator.

The best pass was 6.75@101.97 with 38 degree's total timing. I was going to take timing out till it slowed down but ran out of passes.

The car weighs 3700 with me in it and has 4.11's in it with a 28 inch tire.

I plan to get cranking compression and verify my WOT O2 readings this weekend. Ill update with this info. I have a couple of time slips of a car running about the same kind of times your running now and that car ran a 10.518 @ 129.31 quarter, with a 8.77 thousand foot E.T. Yours must have had a slightly better sixty foot time as this Camaro was at 104 MPH at the eighth but a Camaro is about 1 MPH faster than a Chevelle just from a frontal area difference. Your about right on as far as i can see.

Shawn, in my past experiences, I've always, ALWAYS found more e.t. at the track by port-matching the headers to the head than I EVER found by port matching an intake to the head.

Port matching the headers to the head is a MUST DO, IMHO!

Just build up the area where the tube meets the flange with weld, and grind the flange/welded area to port match your headers the same way you'd do an intake manifold. You'll be glad you did.

On a 455 Olds that I used to run, this was worth nearly a tenth in the 1/8th mile on a 7.40 car with no other changes on a day with worse DA than the previous run. This was with little bitty 1 3/4 headers, too.


Randy

Were talking about his '67 Camaro right? I can't see it weighing more than about 3400 as it sits now. No roll cage right? Aluminum heads?

Anyway, I would definitely grind the flanges on the headers if they are 1/8" too small. I think you would still be better off with 2" headers, with the flanges modified to fit the heads better.

I also think you don't have enough stall in the converter. Great street converter, but you need about 500 rpm above your TQ peak to run the best at the track. JMHO.

This isn't meant to be an insult, but I remember the driver is maybe about 400lbs? So keep that in mind when thinking about what the car "should" weigh.

Sorry, I wasn't reading too closely, i thought it was a chevelle. This is way heavy for a '67 Camaro. Most of the '67s start around 3150-3200 lbs. with some being closer to 3000 lbs. minus the driver.

hey thats what i get for asking questions here :) but there are more big block guys here.


My car weighed 3720 with me in it and a 85 pound back of quickcrete ballast. Which is 3320 without me. Now i have removed the 85 lb ballast. Which leaves 3635 lbs then i installed the exhaust which is short and sweet, i dont see how it can weigh over 50 lbs so i was figuring a worse case scenario of 3700 lbs


I understand the converter is not optimal for ET but one would think that it being a little tight would actually help the MPH.

Shawn

So you weigh ~400 lb? Big man for sure.

hey thats what i get for asking questions here :) but there are more big block guys here.


My car weighed 3720 with me in it and a 85 pound back of quickcrete ballast. Which is 3320 without me. Now i have removed the 85 lb ballast. Which leaves 3635 lbs then i installed the exhaust which is short and sweet, i dont see how it can weigh over 50 lbs so i was figuring a worse case scenario of 3700 lbs


I understand the converter is not optimal for ET but one would think that it being a little tight would actually help the MPH.

Shawn

Not if the rpm falls too far after the shifts. It will kill some mph as well. JMHO.

hey thats what i get for asking questions here :) but there are more big block guys here.


My car weighed 3720 with me in it and a 85 pound back of quickcrete ballast. Which is 3320 without me. Now i have removed the 85 lb ballast. Which leaves 3635 lbs then i installed the exhaust which is short and sweet, i dont see how it can weigh over 50 lbs so i was figuring a worse case scenario of 3700 lbs


I understand the converter is not optimal for ET but one would think that it being a little tight would actually help the MPH.

Shawn Sounds like you may need to weigh the exhaust as all that pipe and mufflers add up. My son had two short exhaust pipes and two Borla mufflers that were about 10' each in length and weighed 40 lbs. Every little thing counts. A '68 Camaro SS hood is about 75 lbs. so a glass hood would drop about 35-40 lbs. I've been on a small diet for about a year now and have lost 20 lbs. in the hope of getting to drive the Chevelle some day in the near future. Keep track of the weather as that humidity will hurt the power a lot. They are repaving the track at Prescott, Ar. aren't they?

Thanks yea im 6 3 so im tall and fat its a terrible combo i promise you.


Good point on the tight converter at shift change.

Yea they did repave the track and Prescott, they also had a NHRA official come in and measure the increments. The track was a little short but dead on now.

It was terrible air, i got to save up and get me a DA meter so i know where im at.


Ill have some O2 readings tomorrow

Thanks yea im 6 3 so im tall and fat its a terrible combo i promise you.


Good point on the tight converter at shift change.

Yea they did repave the track and Prescott, they also had a NHRA official come in and measure the increments. The track was a little short but dead on now.

It was terrible air, i got to save up and get me a DA meter so i know where im at.


Ill have some O2 readings tomorrow Expect the times to improve when the air gets better. Your not to far off right now for your engine size and car weight. You can ask some other racers at the track as you can usually find someone who will be glad to give you the weather details on any given day.

To determine the correct header diameter go to "Headers by Ed" and he has a chart that will tell you your ideal size. In all likelyhood about 1 7/8" would be about the best. This is a common mistake and most cars have headers that are too big. Weather is probably your biggest factor although your not that far off what the combination should be capable of. My son's car at 3540 lbs. never ran faster than 10.48 and more usually 10.55-10.60 with the factory heads and that motor had 12.8-1 compression. I think you expectations are unrealistic. Most street compression cars rarely get into the 10's unless the car is a featherweight.

Harold.....c'mon. I have less CR than Shawn, but a reasonably similar combo. At 3550 lbs, it aint no featherweight.
1 7/8 headers are simply too small, they will choke the port. Unless it's some sort of custom setup port matched to the head and then down to 1 7/8. I still think that is too small. (Now watch Garret switch to 2" and slow down.....)

BTW Shawn...when are you going to change the intake manifold?


Ron

Harold.....c'mon. I have less CR than Shawn, but a reasonably similar combo. At 3550 lbs, it aint no featherweight.
1 7/8 headers are simply too small, they will choke the port. Unless it's some sort of custom setup port matched to the head and then down to 1 7/8. I still think that is too small. (Now watch Garret switch to 2" and slow down.....)

BTW Shawn...when are you going to change the intake manifold?


Ron Garrets car is hitting pretty good isn't it. As the power goes up the headers can get bigger too. My son's car worked O.K. with the 2 1/8" Hooker super comps too, most don't. The 540 liked the 2 1/8" but the new motor has big tubes, 2 1/4" stepped to 2 3/8" with 4 1/2" collectors and runs like a bear.

Well don't take this wrong Shawn, but since were all taking a shot at this :)
See what everyone else thinks. I don't know if it is right or wrong but here I go.

Heavyweight car, combined with the top half of your engine being better suited to a 13:1 engine turning in excess of 7000 rpm with a 5500 converter.
Heads that are marginally too big, you even said this and you wanted to bleed off some low end torque because its a street car. Large 4500 Dart intake with huge runner volume. I believe Tony M. even said that intake was not good for the AFR heads. Carburetor also on the large side. Now add these things up, and I would say you have a loss in the first part of the track, and also at shift recovery. You will never make up on the top what was lost in the first 1/2. I bet you are making peak HP right around 6000-6200 rpm. Right where those heads intake and carb are gonna really start working.....Then you have to shift, so how long is it in that area? Most of the time spent accelerating the car is done between 4500 and your shift point. It may pull like a bear on the top, but you have a heavy car and need to accelerate that heavy car.

Now, who I am to say, mine doesn't even run yet :( , but soon, my friends, soon...

Shawn please take this constructively and not as me bashing your combo.
It is just what I have put together in my observations, and is my opinion, and you know what peole say about those :)


Brian

BTW Shawn...when are you going to change the intake manifold?

what i would like to do is this,
Change my ICL from 108 to 104, to gather valuable data with this combo. Then save up for

A custom ground cam made in collaboration with Tony Mamo. Send the Isky Red zones off to get upgraded to EZ ROLL bearing ( this really chaps my a$$ )
and get the intake tony recommends ported by them to a identical set of heads all at the same time while its apart.

I should be able to sell my Intake for enough to cover the Edelbrock as its cheaper anyway. I should be able to get half my money back out of the voodoo cam ( still have box and cam card ect )

So i figure im out $400+ for porting
i think someone said the EZ Roll upgrade was like $200
and $150-$250 out of pocket for the new Roller

There goes another $1000 :( but hopefully everything will be better matched. The only thing is Tony is so aggressive i know the cams he is working with are much more aggressive and he has more than once chastised me for leaving power on the table with my compression.

Shawn

what i would like to do is this,
Change my ICL from 108 to 104, to gather valuable data with this combo. Then save up for

A custom ground cam made in collaboration with Tony Mamo. Send the Isky Red zones off to get upgraded to EZ ROLL bearing ( this really chaps my a$$ )
and get the intake tony recommends ported by them to a identical set of heads all at the same time while its apart.

I should be able to sell my Intake for enough to cover the Edelbrock as its cheaper anyway. I should be able to get half my money back out of the voodoo cam ( still have box and cam card ect )

So i figure im out $400+ for porting
i think someone said the EZ Roll upgrade was like $200
and $150-$250 out of pocket for the new Roller

There goes another $1000 :( but hopefully everything will be better matched. The only thing is Tony is so aggressive i know the cams he is working with are much more aggressive and he has more than once chastised me for leaving power on the table with my compression.

Shawn Unless you plan on raising the compression i wouldn't put a bigger cam in. I really don't think your cam is hurting the times with the 10.5 comp. ratio. More cam will bleed off cylinder pressure and the car might slow down. The Edelbrock manifold runs a little better "out of the box". You might also think about getting a 1000 H.P. small base non dominator and matching manifold and swap out that Demon carb. The 4150 series carburetors drive better and sometimes make more power. Advancing the cam should give you better times. Something like +2 or +4 should do it. There is a modified manifold for the dominator with smaller runners that might be better than the Edelbrock if you decide to keep the big carb.

I don't think Garret will slow down spinning north of 7k at shifts. Even the "world famous" Ed Bigley" picked up after he put 2" tubes on his 468, but its not the mild 468 street/strip combo that it used to be, still got those crappy large oval ports though ;) hard to argue with 10.OH's at 3900lbs. I wish you had a RPM intake, 2" open spacer and a 950/1000HP that you could borrow. I'd like to see the results, works for me ;)

Shawn please take this constructively and not as me bashing your combo.
It is just what I have put together in my observations, and is my opinion, and you know what peole say about those

If i didnt value the opinions here i would not ask for them. If i was confident my thought process was correct and valid, then i would not have to ask ;)

Trust me i got pretty thick skin. Everything you said is correct. at 500+ inches I didn't expect it to have a 5-7 MPH difference in going a little large on the head. I also never expected to be able to put enough to the ground to pull the wheels foot braking on dry rotted ET Streets. So i never figured i would be able to utilize a more efficient combo making good power across a broader RPM range.
In hindsight i sure wish I had purchased the 315 CNC'd

Unless you plan on raising the compression i wouldn't put a bigger cam in. I really don't think your cam is hurting the times with the 10.5 comp. ratio. More cam will bleed off cylinder pressure and the car might slow down.

I wont be removing it because of the size ect, but more because of the excessive run out and the fact it introduces about .004 lash right before it snaps the intake valve open. I am not a mechanical engineer but I have a hard time accepting that introducing lash ( or a depression in the base circle of the cam ) right before the opening ramp of the intake lobe wont put more stress on the lifter ect. Plus i have to run the cam with a real tight lash not to have excessive noise from this. But point well taken.

If i could get my hands on a good 950 or 1000HP, i would buy the intake just to try it. I could always get 75% of my money back out of the intake. In fact i owe my buddy for some headers and i bet he could use the intake on his new project. The expensive part is coming up with the 1000HP.

The more i think about it with me shifting this combo 6200-6500 with 4.11's shift recovery becomes a huge factor and anything i can do to shift peak TQ down there or to increase peak the TQ at that RPM will probably benefit me. The more i think about it the more i believe ill see some gains when i take the cam from -2 to +2 if i continue to hook at least as good as i do now.

I may keep an eye on ebay for a decent deal on a 1000hp that i could turn over if it doesnt work out. I had been thinking build HP and sacrifice TQ during this whole project, but that was before i was actually hooking the car. Given the data I have now, I would have probably built the engine differently

Shawn

Tune it, you've only been to the track once with it half sorted out and get the cam +4. I've dynoed that cam and it won't do any good where you have it.