Alright you guys, I've deeply appreciated your help thus far. You've saved me lots of time and reading (even though I still do a lot of reading) about putting together my engine. I'm now looking at which headers and rings to go with my setup. In my previous thread I was suggested a set of speed pro moly rings but couldn't find them in the 4.030" bore I need them in. There are moly, chrome, cast iron etc... I know they're all about the same but can somebody link to some that are a good performing ring (1/16, 1/16, 3/16) that are reasonably priced?

Another I'm looking at is stall converters, I have a 1500 lockup/stall right now but I'm figuring I'll probably need to upgrade that. I still want the ability to lockup, I was thinking somewhere around a 2400 or so?

Also I've been browsing the header selection at summit and need to decide between 1 3/4 or 1 5/8" sizing. They have to fit a 1968 Chevelle Malibu sedan.

BUILD 383c.i. stroker:

Brodix IK200 (Iron Killer) Aluminum Heads 200cc 70cc 2.02/1.60 = $1075.99

Edelbrock Performer RPM Aluminum intake = $159.95

Keith Black Hypereutectic flattop 5cc Pistons 1/16, 1/16, 3/16 (set of 8) = $202.69

Total Seal gapless piston rings (set of 8) = $172.95

Lunati Voodoo 276/284º hydraulic flat tappet camshaft + Lifter kit = $189.95

Eagle Cast Steel 3.75" stroke crankshaft 2 piece rear seal = $189

TCI 400 Flex Plate = $70

Pioneer 400c.i. Harmonic Balancer = $105

ARP Flex plate bolts = $12.95

Fel-Pro Performance Gasket 0.039" compressed thickness = $32.95

Quench 0.039", 0 deck height, 10.35:1 CR; 8.36:1 DCR, 4.180 gasket bore.

Parts I already have: GM 5.7" rods, GM HEI, Comp double roller timing chain, edelbrock chrome water pump, 1500 stall/lockup converter, 355 block, Crane 1.52:1 Roller rockers, 750CFM Q-jet, Tri-Y 1 5/8" headers (with clearance dings),



Total = $2178.48

The Hooker Super comps: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HOK%2D2116HKR&N=700+0&autoview=sku

And the Hedman Elite Hedders: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HED%2D68298&N=700+0&autoview=sku

Both are around the same price but different sizes. Now that I have a 383 with torque, I don't know if I'll need the small headers anymore. Probably going to spin the motor to 6000-6500RPMs.

Im guessing you have a 700R4 or 2004R trans using lock-up still? You can go with a aftermarket 10" lock-up in the 2400-3000 range depending on your driving habits/style. If you drive alot find something in the 2600 rpms range. ATI,Edge or Percision Industries make good converters along with Coan aswell. Personally I'd go with a company that will "custom" taylor it to your cars needs and combo. ATI is my choice.

1 3/4",why not? Your combo is kindof mild but you've got cubes and the compression. Not necessary but like I said,why not use the bigger size headers? Now....1 7/8" is over kill.

Im guessing you have a 700R4 or 2004R trans using lock-up still? You can go with a aftermarket 10" lock-up in the 2400-3000 range depending on your driving habits/style. If you drive alot find something in the 2600 rpms range. ATI,Edge or Percision Industries make good converters along with Coan aswell. Personally I'd go with a company that will "custom" taylor it to your cars needs and combo. ATI is my choice.

1 3/4",why not? Your combo is kindof mild but you've got cubes and the compression. Not necessary but like I said,why not use the bigger size headers? Now....1 7/8" is over kill.

Yes sir I've got a built up 700R4 that should withstand about 500HP/TQ.

I will drive it pretty often, it needs to be able to go with down to the beach and back (200mi) without taching out or having excessive slippage.

I'm planning on a 3.73 posi rear end. If I use a 28" tire that puts me at 65MPH at about 2000RPM's. I though if I got a stall above that (2400, 2600 etc..) that the converter would always be slipping because it's stall speed is higher than my engine speed.

I was thinking of going with the super comps, but keeping the headers to a 1 5/8ths will give me more torque. I don't loose much HP keeping the primaries small but gain more torque... ARG! I don't know, I hear people saying with a deep 1st gear (2.85+) and a high rear gear (3.73) keep the primaries bigger, probably so you don't burn the tires off. That got me thinking, I could do that or I could go with the 1 5/8ths cause I want torque. But I don't need a lot of torque in a 3400lb chevelle with 3.73's, or do I? :D Now I just need to figure out the rings. How do those I have picked out look? Do I need something that expensive? I want this engine to be alive for a while (100k) or so.

Once converter "locks up" its locked up - it doesnt matter if its 5000stall.
I'd also do forged pistons if you can afford it.

with those heads i would opt to run the 1 3/4 headers. as for your ring selection and especialy with your piston selecetion run "FILE FIT" plasma moly rings.http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SLP%2DR9771035&N=700+301455+115&autoview=sku

pay CLOSE attention to your gaps with the KB slugs. i run a .030 gap on the top and a .022 gap on the 2nd rings

and as for converter selection look into a TCI street fighter unit!

You sure you're at 10.35:1 with 70cc heads? That's where I'm at with 64s.

Once converter "locks up" its locked up - it doesnt matter if its 5000stall.
I'd also do forged pistons if you can afford it.

I don't think forged pistons are in the budget ;)

The three TCI converters available for my 700R4 on summit are the

Saturday night special; 27 or 30 spline; 2000RPM stall/lockup
Breakaway; 27 or 30 spline; 2400RPM stall/lockup
Super Streetfighter; 27 spline; 3000RPM stall/lockup

I'm not sure which spline quantity I need. My 700R4 is out of an '89 Caprice classic wagon if that helps. Also, that streetfighter stalls to 3000RPM, that means the converter wouldn't lock until the RPM's reached that right? In 4th gear I'm going to be humming along around 2000RPM's so I don't think that would be a good choice. Even the 2400 might be a little much.

As I understand it I have to rev the motor up there so it locks, so if I revved it up there in 3rd gear, then shifted to 4th would it still be locked?

with those heads i would opt to run the 1 3/4 headers. as for your ring selection and especially with your piston selection run "FILE FIT" plasma moly rings.http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SLP%2DR9771035&N=700+301455+115&autoview=sku

pay CLOSE attention to your gaps with the KB slugs. i run a .030 gap on the top and a .022 gap on the 2nd rings

and as for converter selection look into a TCI street fighter unit!

Thanks for pointing out some rings :) The way we checked the gap last time was putting the individual ring in the bore and measuring the gap. How would you adjust the gap if it was too big/too small?

You sure you're at 10.35:1 with 70cc heads? That's where I'm at with 64s.

Yes sir, plug in the numbers yourself and see:

Enter Cylinder Bore Size 4.030
Enter Piston Stroke Length 3.75
Enter Head Gasket Bore Diameter 4.180
Enter Compressed Head Gasket Thickness 0.039
Enter Combustion Chamber Volume In CCs 70
Enter Piston Dome Volume In CCs Negative For Dished Pistons (Use '-') -5
Enter Piston Deck Clearance Negative If ABOVE Deck (Use '-') : 0

Calculated Engine Compression Ratio 10.357135896872865:1

I believe that's correct :)

OK, didn't know your block was 0 decked. That makes the difference.

On my 200-4R I have a "manuel" converter lock up switch. I leave it
locked up while driving around, and unlock it at the track. It will lock
up when it shifts in to 2nd gear and stay locked up in all higher gears,
and will unlock once you slow down and it downshifts into 1st gear.
1st gear is the only gear that its unlocked in, all others its locked up.
So the only gear you "feel" the stall is 1st, then when it shifts into 2nd,
it locks up (feels like a stick shift) and stays locked up while cruising.
I have a 12" 2000 stall in my 69 chevelle, and a 10" 3000 in my Luv,
both feel the same drivin around. Like I said you could have a 5000 stall
and never know it.

On my 200-4R I have a "manuel" converter lock up switch. I leave it
locked up while driving around, and unlock it at the track. It will lock
up when it shifts in to 2nd gear and stay locked up in all higher gears,
and will unlock once you slow down and it downshifts into 1st gear.
1st gear is the only gear that its unlocked in, all others its locked up.
So the only gear you "feel" the stall is 1st, then when it shifts into 2nd,
it locks up (feels like a stick shift) and stays locked up while cruising.
I have a 12" 2000 stall in my 69 chevelle, and a 10" 3000 in my Luv,
both feel the same drivin around. Like I said you could have a 5000 stall
and never know it.

Ok that clears it up then. I was always curious about how that worked. It makes sense that the stall is only for 1st because that's the only gear you start in. Now that you've said it that way I can see what you're saying as my '73 chevelle behaved in that way when I was on the road. When I was rolling along at say 15mph and gave it 1/2 throttle or so the RPM would jump to 1500, that was with my 1500 stall. Cool :thumbsup:

If that's the case then, I guess I could go with a 3000 stall, however I don't want to be busting up my drivetrain so maybe the 2400 would be better suited as this is much more of a street than strip car and I don't care so much about E.T. Plus I want to get some gas mileage out of this thing, and with a 383's torque I won't need to slam the RPM so high to get it moving.

Would it be okay to run 3" exhaust back from the super comps 3" collectors to an X pipe then 2.5" all the way back through the mufflers?

I don't think forged pistons are in the budget ;)

The three TCI converters available for my 700R4 on summit are the

Saturday night special; 27 or 30 spline; 2000RPM stall/lockup
Breakaway; 27 or 30 spline; 2400RPM stall/lockup
Super Streetfighter; 27 spline; 3000RPM stall/lockup

I'm not sure which spline quantity I need. My 700R4 is out of an '89 Caprice classic wagon if that helps. Also, that streetfighter stalls to 3000RPM, that means the converter wouldn't lock until the RPM's reached that right? In 4th gear I'm going to be humming along around 2000RPM's so I don't think that would be a good choice. Even the 2400 might be a little much.

Thanks for pointing out some rings :) The way we checked the gap last time was putting the individual ring in the bore and measuring the gap. How would you adjust the gap if it was too big/too small?





i bealve all 700R4 after 1984 are 30 spline input shaft.

as for the rings. you use a "ring filler" if the gaps are too small. due to the fact there a .035 over ring they wont be too big. the top rings are of a harder metal and take longer to file. the bottem rings file very fast. so take your time. if your using the KB pistons run the ring gaps that i sugested of .030 top and .022 2nd for street and strip, and even .002 if your realy concernd about the rings butting

i bealve all 700R4 after 1984 are 30 spline input shaft.

as for the rings. you use a "ring filler" if the gaps are too small. due to the fact there a .035 over ring they wont be too big. the top rings are of a harder metal and take longer to file. the bottem rings file very fast. so take your time. if your using the KB pistons run the ring gaps that i sugested of .030 top and .022 2nd for street and strip, and even .002 if your realy concernd about the rings butting

Ok, I'll be able to verify the number of splines on the shaft after I take it out by just counting them right?


I've also got something else to show you guys. I've just been shown this small machine shop company called whites performance. Here's their ebay store http://stores.ebay.com/whiteperformance1

More importantly I was shown these heads: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PATRIOT-SBC-CHEVY-ALUMINUM-CYLINDER-HEADS-2-02-VALVES_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33617QQihZ016QQi temZ260116330407

and they also have these headers for sale, all for good pricing: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVELLE-CAMARO-MONTE-CARLO-HEADERS-CERAMIC-COATED_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33631QQihZ016QQi temZ260113776775

Anybody ever heard of these guys or ever dealt with them? Please chime in! :)

Those heads are cheap chineese copies, the quench pad around the plug isnt there, and who knows what the ports look like. Yea, they would work, but I'd spend the extra $250 and get some better heads.
Shortie headers will sacrifice a lot of low/mid range power compared to full length, you would be better off getting 1 3/4" full length then those.

I would run 1 5/8" full length headers myself. I know my car was a little faster with them vs the 1 3/4 in a 383.

Thanks for the advise, I guess I'll stay away from them. Even with that sweet price :(

Here's my current build sheet, I switched a few things around based on some info and recommendations, tell me what you think:

BUILD 383c.i. stroker:

Brodix IK200 (Iron Killer) Aluminum Heads 200cc 70cc 2.02/1.60 = $1229

Edelbrock Performer RPM Aluminum intake = $159.95 EDL-7104 summitracing.com

Speed Pro Hypereutectic flattop 5cc Pistons (set of 8) = $277.52 STL-H860CP30 summitracing

Sealed Power File-Fit Plasma-Moly Rings (set of 8) = $102.95 SLP-R9771035 summitracing

Lunati Voodoo 276/284º hydraulic flat tappet camshaft + Lifter kit = $189.95 LUN-60104LK summitracing

Scat 9000 Cast Pro Comp 3.75" stroke crankshaft 2 piece rear seal = $231.99 942-935050 jegs.com

TCI 400 Flex Plate = $70 TCI-399373 summitracing.com

Fluidampr Harmonic Damper 400c.i. external balance = 230.95 FLU-780100 summitracing.com

ARP Flex plate bolts = $12.95 ARP-200-2902 summitracing.com

Fel-Pro Performance Gasket 0.039" compressed thickness = $32.95 FPP-1014 summitracing.com

Hooker Super Comp headers 1 3/4" full length = $399.95 HOK-2116HKR summitracing.com

TCI Breakaway 2400 stall/lockup converter = $399.88 TCI-242962 summitracing.com

Total = $3338.04

Things in bold are what I changed.

cnc motorsports has that crank for around 180 plus 8 shipping. Maybe jegs will match that price?? I like scat stuff for the price and lighter than a stock piece.

cnc motorsports has that crank for around 180 plus 8 shipping. Maybe jegs will match that price?? I like scat stuff for the price and lighter than a stock piece.

I'm looking at the site and the price I see is $212.95


One question I have about my rotating assembly is:

Ok normally 383 cranks were externally balanced using the 400 flexplate and damper right?

Well I've recently read that you can get a neutrally balanced and use a 350 flexplate and damper and have it internally balanced which would save me money.

If that's all true, would this be the crank to get? http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=7668&CtgID=7655

Also that crank uses 6" rods or longer, I can't find an internally balanced 383 crank that uses the 5.7" rods. Looks like I'll have to get the 6"ers if I go with that, or I'm stuck with external balancing...

This is the regular 383 crank http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=7666&CtgID=7655

I'm looking at the site and the price I see is $212.95


One question I have about my rotating assembly is:

Ok normally 383 cranks were externally balanced using the 400 flexplate and damper right?

Well I've recently read that you can get a neutrally balanced and use a 350 flexplate and damper and have it internally balanced which would save me money.

If that's all true, would this be the crank to get? http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=7668&CtgID=7655

Also that crank uses 6" rods or longer, I can't find an internally balanced 383 crank that uses the 5.7" rods. Looks like I'll have to get the 6"ers if I go with that, or I'm stuck with external balancing...

This is the regular 383 crank http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=7666&CtgID=7655

in your parts list, you list a felpro 1014 head gasket. run a 1010 as it has a 4.166 bore vs the 4.200 of the 1014

I'm looking at the site and the price I see is $212.95


One question I have about my rotating assembly is:

Ok normally 383 cranks were externally balanced using the 400 flexplate and damper right?

Well I've recently read that you can get a neutrally balanced and use a 350 flexplate and damper and have it internally balanced which would save me money.

If that's all true, would this be the crank to get? http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=7668&CtgID=7655

Also that crank uses 6" rods or longer, I can't find an internally balanced 383 crank that uses the 5.7" rods. Looks like I'll have to get the 6"ers if I go with that, or I'm stuck with external balancing...

This is the regular 383 crank http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=7666&CtgID=7655

I just completed my 385 with a internally balanced eagle crank with 6" rods. Used my 350 flywheel and balancer. Have the thrust surface on the new crank polished for added protection. I wiped out the thrust bearing in no time at all. Cheap insurance, I promise you!!!! I like 6" rods, they tend to have less clearence issues.

Bill

I just completed my 385 with a internally balanced eagle crank with 6" rods. Used my 350 flywheel and balancer. Have the thrust surface on the new crank polished for added protection. I wiped out the thrust bearing in no time at all. Cheap insurance, I promise you!!!! I like 6" rods, they tend to have less clearence issues.

Bill

I really just need to find out the price difference of:

1) Keeping my 5.7" rods, using 383 external balance, 400 flexplate, 400 damper and having the assembly externally balanced.

Versus.

2) Buying 6" rods, using 383 internal balance, 350 flexplate, 350 damper and having the assembly internally balanced.

So really I just need to find out how much external balancing vs. internal balancing costs...

Any idea where I can get this information?


Got another question, my father REALLY wants headers with THICK flanges. I told him the Hooker Super Comps come with 5/16th thick flanges and he said no, he really wants those 3/8ths thick flanges.

Is there a way I could have the super comps made with the extra thick flanges? Are they even needed, or is just his oldschoolness along with the fact that he came from using iron heads and these will be aluminum clouding his judgement?

I thought it mattered more on the gasket choice then the flange thickness.

Jonathan,

6" rods will run between 200 to 300, a flexplate and a balancer will run about the same. IMHO I would go with the 6" rod and internally balanced crank(I did) LOL. The 350 stuff is much more available, say you want to switch to a 4 or 5 speed later on, you can get a hundred different flywheels, with the 400 your choice is limited. Plus there is the theory that a 6" rod has a lesser angle than a 5.7, but this is a very hot subject with proving it. I feel there is something to it or my machine shop would not have recommended it and also use it on there own engines. As far as header flanges your Dad and I remember the old days when most/all headers leaked. The 5/16 flanges will be just fine.

Bill

i will agree with fabio on the header choice.if you are looking for dyno numbers the 13/4 may win out but the 15/8s will build more torke and get you there faster .i would also be carefull with your timing on the kieth black unless you are running pure race gas.good luck

you will also need pistons designed for 6" rods, the advantage is the piston will be lighter. Junkyard dog why do you say be carefull with the timing on kb pistons?

you will also need pistons designed for 6" rods, the advantage is the piston will be lighter. Junkyard dog why do you say be carefull with the timing on kb pistons?


Because they are known to crack and denotation increases it's chances

Because they are known to crack and denotation increases it's chances

You're right on that, I've been told that else ware too. I'm staying away from those :)

I'm checkin' these out at the moment:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=STL%2D8%2DH124CL30&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SCA%2D26000716&autoview=sku

Hi Jonathan,
A few things you need to know about some common misconceptions that have been mentioned above,,

THERE IS NO DIFFERENCE IN POWER BETWEEN A 5.7 & 6" ROD IN ANYTHING WE ARE DISCUSSING HERE
AND, THE "SIDE LOADING" BETWEEN THE TWO RODS IS A NON ISSUE :sad:

The 6" rod piston is lighter but there is no difference what so ever with regard to clearance assuming the same design rod except if you try to use a 5.7 piston/rod with a crank designed for a 6" one.
This will not work.

I used to always like a 6" rod because it made internal balancing a non issue but with the newer pistons 5.7 is not a problem any longer,,,, again, with good stuff.
The 5.7 gets the pin out of the ring area which I personally do not feel is an issue except with the stupid way KB does it.
And the 5.7 does have a somewhat longer skirt for support but again not a big deal, I have done a lot of both.

Now on balancing
You ain't going to get it internal balanced with stock rods & cheap heavy pistons unless you have very deep pockets.

If you choose to do this right & use decent parts it will internal balance with a 5.7" rod, I have done a number of them, both flat top & dished.
I always prefer internal balancing as the closer you balance to where the imbalance is, the better it is.
Makes for less "couple" but that is a whole nuther discussion,,,,

Balance pricing varies a bunch but you tend to get what you pay for.
From what I have seen you do not want "mail order" balanced assemblies if you want it done correctly.
Buy from a reputable machine shop or have it done by one you trust.
This way there should not be a question.

As for internal vs external cost, as long as Tungsten is not involved which in this case it should not be the cost should be the same but I cannot speak for other shops here.

If I felt that the pre-balanced assemblies were all that great for what they charge trust me, I would sell my balancer & buy them.
Balancing is not a big money maker in a most all cases & it would save me a ton of time.

But if you are set on Hypereutectic or any cast piston it is not going to be internal balanced without going to a 6" rod & even then it depends on the piston weight.

If you wish, email me & I will see what I can do on a complete balanced rotating assembly done in house for you, not a "mail order' repackaged one.;)

Hi Jonathan,
A few things you need to know about some common misconceptions that have been mentioned above,,

THERE IS NO DIFFERENCE IN POWER BETWEEN A 5.7 & 6" ROD IN ANYTHING WE ARE DISCUSSING HERE
AND, THE "SIDE LOADING" BETWEEN THE TWO RODS IS A NON ISSUE :sad:

The 6" rod piston is lighter but there is no difference what so ever with regard to clearance assuming the same design rod except if you try to use a 5.7 piston/rod with a crank designed for a 6" one.
This will not work.

I used to always like a 6" rod because it made internal balancing a non issue but with the newer pistons 5.7 is not a problem any longer,,,, again, with good stuff.
The 5.7 gets the pin out of the ring area which I personally do not feel is an issue except with the stupid way KB does it.
And the 5.7 does have a somewhat longer skirt for support but again not a big deal, I have done a lot of both.

Now on balancing
You ain't going to get it internal balanced with stock rods & cheap heavy pistons unless you have very deep pockets.

If you choose to do this right & use decent parts it will internal balance with a 5.7" rod, I have done a number of them, both flat top & dished.
I always prefer internal balancing as the closer you balance to where the imbalance is, the better it is.
Makes for less "couple" but that is a whole nuther discussion,,,,

Balance pricing varies a bunch but you tend to get what you pay for.
From what I have seen you do not want "mail order" balanced assemblies if you want it done correctly.
Buy from a reputable machine shop or have it done by one you trust.
This way there should not be a question.

As for internal vs external cost, as long as Tungsten is not involved which in this case it should not be the cost should be the same but I cannot speak for other shops here.

If I felt that the pre-balanced assemblies were all that great for what they charge trust me, I would sell my balancer & buy them.
Balancing is not a big money maker in a most all cases & it would save me a ton of time.

But if you are set on Hypereutectic or any cast piston it is not going to be internal balanced without going to a 6" rod & even then it depends on the piston weight.

If you wish, email me & I will see what I can do on a complete balanced rotating assembly done in house for you, not a "mail order' repackaged one.;)

I would like to go with internal balancing if I can. I've always heard it's better and cheaper too :)

So what parts am I going to need to internally balance a 383? What on my parts list am I going to need to change if anything?

I've got these pistons: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=STL%2DH860CP30&autoview=sku

These rods: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SCA%2D26000716&autoview=sku

This SCAT 9000 series crank: http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=7668&CtgID=7655

My 350 flexplate and damper.


What do I need to get this internally balanced?

I'm only set on hypers because forged are a crapload more expensive and I'm trying (not very well) to keep costs to a minimum. It's already costing more than I planned heh.

Probably just a machinist that knows how to balance :)
But I have to ask,,, why are you buying parts from all over the country?
You could have gotten all the parts you have from one source with one call.
And,,, you could even have even gotten it balanced correctly & shipped to your door,,,, :D

Probably just a machinist that knows how to balance :)
But I have to ask,,, why are you buying parts from all over the country?
You could have gotten all the parts you have from one source with one call.
And,,, you could even have even gotten it balanced correctly & shipped to your door,,,, :D

I have no idea why I'm doing it.... I'm just trying to get a parts list together so I know what to order when the time comes.

How could I accomplish all that with a call? Let me in on this would ya....

I have no idea why I'm doing it.... I'm just trying to get a parts list together so I know what to order when the time comes.

How could I accomplish all that with a call? Let me in on this would ya....

he's saying he can get you that stuff and balance it correctly. Just read some of his posts, the guy is filled with info and numerous people on here have bought stuff from him all had positive things to say.

Send him a pm, that's how you do it!

Jonathan,

YOU CAN NOT GO WRONG DEALING WITH WOLFPLACE!!!! He knows his stuff!!!

Bill

He knows his stuff & he's a good guy too!!!

I'll throw out another recommendation for Wolfplace. I had a problem with a Manley rod about 6 months or so after I bought it from him... when I finally took my engine to the machine shop, they found that a cap-screw rod bolt was seized. Despite the time lapse between when the rods were ordered and when they were used, Mike was able to get a rod and a call tag drop shipped to me.

If you go with Mike, it will be right the first time, which definitely beats doing it over.

Wes

Thanks for the kind words guys, we try :)
And thanks to all of you for your trust & for allowing us to help a little :beers:

Well it seems like you do good work Wolfplace.

I'm just getting a little frazzled over this because I'm getting mixed messages here on the balancing subject. It doesn't make my job any easier trying to pick out the right stuff. Good thing I've got a couple months before I actually by and build this thing. WHEW!

I suppose it's nice to have such a selection on the one hand, but it sure can be confusing sometimes.

Here's a post from another user showing what I mean:

When it comes down to cost for the Speed-Pro's, if you shop around you can get #L2491F30( which is a coated FORGED piston) for around $330 a set w/ moly rings included! This is a 5.7 rod 383 Flat-top piston and works very well for your application . Pistons are a poor place to make a decision based on budget, you'd be better off saving money by staying externally balanced(don't believe all the BS about internal balance either, unless you are going around in circles at a constant 7500 RPM you'll never notice the difference in either smoothness nor wear) I know, I've been doing it for 10 years. Many hotrodders(this forum included) are getting waaayyy too hung up on stuff like rod length, internal vs external balance, 383's as only good for torque motors and the like . 30+ years worth of successful engines have been built before "the nascar influence" turned the building of simple street-strip engines into rocket science . IMO K.I.S.S.

Alright well now I believe I'm going with the "268" Voodoo cam instead of the 276.

I dynosim'ed both of them and the 268 makes more horsepower and torque until about 5500RPM's, at that point the 276 starts edging in a little power wise and starts making more power as the RPM's rise to about 6500 where they both start dropping off quick after that.

That cam should make good torque for me and I still get 427 HP :D

Here's what Dynosim says with my combo:

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b248/winston856/268graph.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b248/winston856/268chart.jpg

Sorry for the number dimming there, I don't know what happened.

That's my 383 with the voodoo 268 cam, look at that flat torque curve :D

somebody on the nastyz28 site is selling .030 383 pistons for a 5.7 rod. New forged srp pistons for 300 shipped. I wish I would have saw those when I built my motor.

I think the combo of 1 5/8ths headers with this relatively tame cam is going to work pretty nicely if Dynosim is any indication. :)

One subject I haven't brought up yet that I just remembered is the oil pump.

On my current motor I have a Melling high volume oil pump that pumps about 55-60 psi cruising and drops to 40 at it's lowest point on startup.

I was thinking of just going with a standard flow pump, do I need a high volume or pressure for spinning to 6000 RPM?

i have a regulare melling M55 pump. 22psi HOT at idle in gear. 40 psi hot at 2500RPM. 65-70psi cold on start up.

Would I be better off going with a high volume pump for my motor? I plan on using synthetic oil after the break in.