67mousehunter
Apr 29th, 07, 9:47 AM
I know I need a master cylinder because of not enough fluid in the drum m/c but do I need a booster also.I really don't don't want to add a booster if I don't need to.Not really enough room for one
please advise
ToyzRMe
Apr 29th, 07, 12:43 PM
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1321570#post1321570
I posted this earlier in another thread. I converted my '67 to manual discs a couple weeks ago, and used the original drum master cylinder which is a 1" bore diameter.
I DID NOT use any proportioning valve or residual valve, either. Just the original drum brake distribution block that I relocated to clear the headers.
I did NOT use a power booster and it stops just great. Be sure to use a good SEMI-METALLIC pad.
Hope this helps.
Randy
Olle
Apr 30th, 07, 9:21 AM
I DID NOT use any proportioning valve or residual valve, either. Just the original drum brake distribution block that I relocated to clear the headers.
I wouldn't recommend this. You may not notice a difference during normal driving, but it could cause rear wheel lock-up when you brake hard. Do it right and install a combo valve.
67mousehunter
Apr 30th, 07, 8:33 PM
thanks that's what I did .Know I'm having a problem with bleeding air from the system
ToyzRMe
May 1st, 07, 9:17 AM
I wouldn't recommend this. You may not notice a difference during normal driving, but it could cause rear wheel lock-up when you brake hard. Do it right and install a combo valve.
That's why I put in my original post that I did not know whether what I did was technically right or wrong.
But I can say that braking at 100+ at the Denton 1/8th mile track constitutes somewhat hard braking because of the very short shutdown area, and I had no rear lockup whatsoever.
Maybe it would become a problem in the rain under a hard panic stop situation, but I never have my car out on rainy days.
The brakes on my '67 feel great set up as they are now. If rear wheel lockup ever becomes an issue, I'll add whatever is needed to correct the problem, but so far, absolutely NO problems at all without the rear proportioning valve. I WAS TOLD that it would be necessary to have one, but I tried it without one and so far, so good.
Remember, I'm using the 1" bore drum/drum master cylinder, so that may have something to do with it. I don't know for sure.
Randy