hey guys.
i need to know how to correctly set pinion angle.
i have read so many different posts on it, but i just dont understand.

so the driveshaft has to be in an almost straight line under load? or without load?

i am still having wheel hop problems.
i have jegs adjustable upper arms, with heim ends, jegs lower lift bars, boxed, variable rate springs, and air bags in the springs.

i do not have the lift bars hooked up, they are in stock control arm location, and it still hops. when i go to hook it up, i will need to set the angle.

so, can anyone help me please?


thanks alot.


aaron

Im not real sure either, but I am going to start by setting it where the factory had it(using the stock upper control arms as a reference)

yeah i would like some help on setting my rear pinion angle too please

I don't know if this will help, but Car Craft had an article on this when they were building that green Nova that I think they called Super Nova.

I put together a bunch of old posts in a microsoft word document that give good descriptions with pictures on how to set pinion angles. I can't attach it because it is too large of a word doc. If you send me your e-mail addresses I will send it to you.

Vince
'66 SS clone

Whatever tilt your engine/trans has, put your pinion yoke on the rear at the same angle. That's it.

Ex., if your engine tilts down 4*, bring the pinion up 4*. Now if you have slicks and alot of power, some guys will run the pinion down slightly to compensate for suspension windup. So the'll run the pinion "down" in relation to the driveline, like 3*. This way, the rear winds up to 4* so the angles are parallell under load.

For a street car, I suggest just running the same angles.

ok, thanks man.

so say engine is down 4*, rear pinion is up 4*? sounds good.

and this is all under a load, as in, full weight of vehicle on jackstands.

and pm, sent Vince.

thanks

aaron

Yes, suspension under load. I have a selection of 6x6's to jack the car up evenly. And yes, 4* engine down, 4* pinion up. When you use your angle finder, put it on something that is parrallell to the crankshaft centerline (line the oil pan rail, starter, the back of the tranny output shaft, or the cap of the universal of the slip yoke). Same with the pinion yoke (some guys remove the d-shaft and lay a socket in where the u-joint would be). I take a socket and just lay it on a u-joint cap and then stick my guage on that. You wanna get the angles within .5*

After you get this done, you can check your operating angles. You check the d-shaft at 90*, and then rotate it another 90* and check again. This checks the angle the joints are working at. You dont want them to be working more than 3.5*, but they do need at least .5* to live. I'll trya and find a link for that...its real easy.

BTW - when measuring the front angle take a note or mark your angle gauge. They when measuring the rear, make sure that pointer is on the other side of that 0* (so you will be -X.X)

There is TONS of mis-information on this subject floating around and the most common wrong-info given is to set pinion opposite engine angle. This is the wrong way to set pinion angle. see this thread, there is a crude drawing on page 2 (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=127664&highlight=pinion+angle)

thanks a bunch guys.

dennis, that link helped me a bunch.
when i go to set the angle, i will give all my numbers, and see what you guys think.

thanks again.

aaron

Please send Pinion Angle word doc to Rdhelmer@stcs.org Thanks :)

Sparty,

Just sent you the word doc. Hope it helps.

Vince

What are you all using to measure the angles? I have been looking for the tool, but can't find one. I have jerry - rigged one and it is ok, but not real easy to use, or versatile.
John

http://www.markwilliams.com/driveshafttech.aspx this is a good simple to understand explaination on drive line angles. maybe i mis understood dennis above but the crank centerline and pinion need to be parrellel to prevent vibration and wear. also the drive shaft angle to the pinion and crank centerline needs to be held to a minimum; more angle limits the speed the driveline will tolerate.

Might sound strange. But I have found that a good general eyeball is a good starting point. Its not hard to see the rear of the transmission and drivshaft. If the rear of the driveshaft is not aligned with the rear diff, you will certainly notice.

Might sound strange. But I have found that a good general eyeball is a good starting point. .

Well, yer right - it does! Everything I am reading is talking in the range of 1 - 3* angles between components. Pretty hard for me to discern. I always envied the guys with the calibrated eyeballs and degreed ears.
John