I have a '64 Malibu convertible that needs some patch work. Can anyone tell me what gauge(s) of steel GM used on this car? Floor pans, trunk, fenders, firewall, etc. How about the floor braces? Any help would be very much appreciated.

Rubadub has posted some stuff on sheet metal thickness for his 69 in the past. A search under his handle should bring it up. I think it shiuld be similar to your 64.

I am pretty sure it's in the 19ga range. I would use 18ga for patch panels.

On exterior panels 19ga was used.
Since 19ga is hard to find most metal shapers use 20ga because its easier to work with.

I agree with Sevt; 20 gauge works well. Not too heavy, not too light - just about right.

Just in case:)



MORE SHEET METAL TIPS AND THOUGHTS (http://www.1969supersport.com/smthoughts.html)


Rob

Thanks for the feedback guys. Rob, I checked out your website. AWESOME!!! I can only hope to do the quality of work you do. I thought I had a nice place to work on my ride, but your shop rocks!!!!

Well thanks for the compliment Shawn.:thumbsup:

Rob

Rob, did you lap weld or butt weld your ploorpans? I was just curious, b/c I have been getting mixed advice on that.

http://www.1969supersport.com/floorpn5.html

Shawn, if you look at the first picture that pops up on the drivers side very front of the new pan, you will see about six inches of different colored metal.

Thats the bottom of the toe board, I cut up some new toe boards and butt welded one on the top part of it, then lap welded the back part to keep the factory look.

I will be butt welding all of the new pans.

Just wanted to explain that to you.

Hope I explained this okay.

Rob

I just picked up four of these from Eastwoods catalog, see how they work.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1159&itemType=PRODUCT

Rob,
www.daggertools.com (http://www.daggertools.com) sells those clamps cheaper then eastwoods, plus their higher quality.
Alittle tip when using those clamps is to mark there location on the metal. Then take a file and remove the metal from the marked spot so clamp sits flush with the metal.. Basically you are making a notch for those clamps to sit in. That way when you go to butt the panels up you are left with NO gap. The only gap you are left with is the small little notch you made for the clamp, alot easier to weld then a gap of .040 down the entire seem!!

Leaving a .040 gap is a great way to warp the crap out of your metal as it allows the welded metal to draw more metal with as it cools and shrinks. A butt weld with NO gap will lessen your warpage factor.

IMO, if there was no seem or lap from the factory then there wont be one when I weld it, I butt weld everything...Eric

Thanks for the tip Eric, and I agree, butt welding is the way to go, but I want these toe boards to be just like the factory.

I'll try and do what you're telling me, on those gaps, and when there done, I'll put some pictures on.

Then if they don't come out, I'll blame It on you:)

Serious here, learned a lot on here from you, we might not really realize how fortunate we are, to have experts like yourself take the time and come on this site and share these good things.:thumbsup:

Rob

I know a lot of guys lap weld them, but I'm with you guys. I think butt welding them is a better, factory look. I take it that both you guys do not recommend the idea where you place one panel over the other and cut through both of them with a 1/16" cutoff wheel b/c the gap is too wide? Is that correct? You prefer the scribe/cut/trim method with basically zero gap? I have done some body work before, but let's just say this car is for me and I want the quality to be better than the ones I have done before. I am not is a huge hurry with this car, I just want it to be done right.

Oh, as far as the "intergrip" butt weld clamps...I was planning on getting some, seem like a good idea. Thanks for the "Dagger Tools" tip, saves money over Eastwood. Thanks for all the advice guys, a rookie could learn a lot from you!!!

I take it that both you guys do not recommend the idea where you place one panel over the other and cut through both of them with a 1/16" cutoff wheel b/c the gap is too wide? Is that correct? You prefer the scribe/cut/trim method with basically zero gap?

If you use a body saw it will leave behind a very thin gap. I use hack saw blades in mine. Harbor freight has body saws for about 20 bucks, they are small air powered saws.
But yes I prefer the NO gap.

I have an air saw (on loan to me) so I will kep that in mind.

Old guys are the masters of butt welding, you youngsters will never get as good as us.

And thats because were so dang SLLLLLLLLLLLOOOOOOOOOOOWWWWWWWWWWW.

One spot weld, then a half hour of scratching, getting into position, triple checking the distance of the wire, adjusting the helmet. THEN, the ultimate final check, and this might take a while, DID I FORGET ANYTHING.:)

Rob

Old guys are the masters of butt welding, you youngsters will never get as good as us.

And thats because were so dang SLLLLLLLLLLLOOOOOOOOOOOWWWWWWWWWWW.

One spot weld, then a half hour of scratching, getting into position, triple checking the distance of the wire, adjusting the helmet. THEN, the ultimate final check, and this might take a while, DID I FORGET ANYTHING.:)

Rob

At that rate, it must've taken you 3 hours to write that post... :p :yes:

lol, yeah, sometimes i work too fast for my brain.
I use 18gauge btw and haven't had a problem with it yet.

Do you guys use the stitch method (approx. 1 1/2" at a time) or lots of smaller spot welds when you do floor pans? Thanks, Shawn

I do a spot at a time.

Rob