I bought some slightly used Trick flows recently and I am not sure what else the heads need parts wise to install them on a 383 short block. Has anyone here had any experiance with the Trick Flow sbc heads with the canted exhaust valve angles?

Or more specific...
Will they work with standard flat top pistons, or do they need a special piston with different valve reliefs?

Standard rockers work?

push rod lenght?

Head bolts?


I put some Eldebrock heads on a Pontiac a few years ago and ended up needing to change almost everything. They used special head bolts, headers, gaskets, valves, springs, etc. Had to spend an extra 700.00 after buying the heads to put them on.

I checked the Trick Flow web site and found no mention of "special" parts for the sbc.

Have a set of Twisted Wedge heads on my 400.

Fine heads, TERIFFIC mid lift flow. You're gonna like 'em!

Standard headers will fit.

Standard flat or dish pistons will work. You'd need special pistons if you wanted a dome. I have dish pistons at around 10.0 to 1. Zero detonation problems. I'd consider going higher if I had it to do again. Live and learn!

Standard sheetmetal valve covers will fit, most aftermarket cast covers will fit, I guess. GM LT-1/Z-28 covers WILL NOT fit without grinding clearance for intake rockers. (Those covers are thick wall! Ask me how I know...)

Standard rockers are advertised to fit, I don't know since I dropped full roller rockers on mine. IF YOU USE FULL ROLLERS, USE COMP CAMS "SPECIAL" intake rockers for Twisted Wedge. Standard rockers work fine on the exhaust. I COULD NOT get proper rocker geometry on the intakes with standard Chevy rollers. With the special rockers, I got proper geometry with standard length pushrods. My block was zero decked, and I used a .039 gasket. These heads have a reputation for wearing out the valve guides. First guess is bad rocker geometry and not enough folks bought the Comp rockers.

Spend the money for the Fel-Pro gaskets with the copper fire ring. I used the "pre-flattened steel" and it dug into my heads, had to have 'em shaved .010 to clean it up when I swapped 'em onto my other engine.

When it's time to rebuild, I'm told that the valves in the TFS TW heads are shorter than standard. Be careful with replacement valves.

My experience with the Trick Flow phone line is that I waited on hold FOREVER to get through. The web site isn't very helpful, either.

They must be set up correctly. The valve train geometry has to perfect or they will kill valve guides. I also recommend roller rockers because of rocker to valve stem issues. I would see if you can get the origonal instruction sheet and follow it to the letter. I have a set on a mild 327 and it works so much better than with any other head I ever had on it it's hard to believe.

I've got a set on my 350. When I got them, they were not properly set up. I called Summit and ordered Trickflow roller rockers, guide plates, push rods, 1.47" springs, retainers, spring cups and locks. Installed these and it really woke up my 350. graemlins/thumbsup.gif Pics here... Pics (http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mdp@sbcglobal.net/my_photos)

I've just stripped them and am in the process of polishing the chambers and exhaust ports. I'm also going to have the valve guides replaced and a 3 angle valve job done.

Mike/Shurkey - do either of you have the documentation for these heads? I used to have a pdf file that listed all the tech specs and replacement parts, but I have lost it. Also, what cams are you guys running with these heads?

Kamero68,

I went back and pulled my invoice from Summit and here's the part numbers that I installed on my heads - everything except the valves themselves:

ARP 3/8" Rocker Studs
TFS 31400510 1.5 Roller Rockers
TFS 31400623 Guide Plates
TFS 21407800 7.800 ChromeMoly Push Rods
TFS 51400413 1.47 Single Valve Spring Set
TFS 51400434 Spring Cup Set
TFS 51400454 Viton Seals
TFS 31400424 Retainers
TFS 31500432 Spring Shims
Crane 99095-1 Split Locks

I am running the middle Dual Energy Comp Cam. The car has stock ram horn manifolds and 3.08 gears. Even with this mild cam the intake valve is closer to the piston than you would think but still has enough clearence. Be carefull about cam choice. Check your piston to valve clearence. The car runs great no RPM potential but it has tremendous mid range and with the 3.08s that is the most important thing. I don't have the part numbers anymore but I think I still have the flow specs somewhere.

There are 2 twisted wedge versions. The G1 and G2 (neither have canted valves). The G1 (what I have) has a 13dg intake valve angle and standard 23dg exh valve. They do require a special intake rocker but not on the exhuast. On the intake rocker the roller-to-trunion distance is shorter than a standard rocker. CompCams makes a specific rocker for the intake and is sold in sets of 8. This will go a long way towards proper geometry (along with correct length pushrods).

The exhaust valve is in the standard location but the intake valve sits about .400" closer to the intake manifold. This will require a fly-cut piston if your running a large cam. If you're under say 240dg duration and not less than 106icl and don't have milled heads or decked block you probably won't have any p-v clearance issues.

This info applies to the G1, the G2 has 16/18dg valve angles and the same does not apply.

Hope this helps.

Oh yeah, they do run pretty good on my sbc.

I'm running a generic Summit K1104 cam, similar to the old 350hp 327 cam, but with more lift. 224/224, .465/.465. I've got 1.6 rockers I&E, mounted on 7/16 studs, so my lift is just under .500, with a degree or two of added duration. I bought the small valve spring version of the TW heads, and I think 5.15 was the max rated lift for that spring and valve seal package.

The logic: I needed a physically smaller rocker to clear the LT-1 valve cover. Comp Cams steel Pro Magnums seemed like an ideal choice. If I'm going to shell out for steel roller rockers, I might as well get 1.6-1 ratio and make the most of my mild cam, and I might as well get them to fit the bigger studs. NOBODY is going to make a stud girdle to fit the goofy angled valves, and there's no telling what the future holds in terms of upgraded cams, so oversized (and more rigid) studs seemed like a good idea at the time.

What actually happened: Pro Magnums STILL rubbed on the covers, requiring a buttload of grinding. 8 of the 16 P/N 1305 "normal" 7/16 X 1.6 Pro Magnum rockers had to be sent back to Comp Cams for FREE!!! replacement with part number 1310-8 special Twisted Wedge intake rockers. Generic temporary camshaft works so nicely for my driving that I never got ambitious enough to slide a different one in. Yeah, I could make a lot more power by getting a more aggressive cam, but I can blow away normal street traffic and still have 10" of manifold vacuum while accelerating. Idles like a stocker, with 15" vacuum. Pulls 17-18" at 70 mph. Still pulls decently at WFO 6000 RPM. Upgrading just hasn't been a priority. I REALLY LIKE engines with good heads and mild cams!

Comp's part numbers for an 8-pack of TW intake rockers:

1307-8 3/8 stud, 1.52 ratio
1308-8 7/16 stud, 1.52 ratio
1309-8 3/8 stud, 1.6 ratio
1310-8 7/16 stud, 1.6 ratio
(I just priced the 1310-8 at Summit, $161)

Mike's Dual Energy cam probably helps considering his stock exhaust manifolds. On a car with headers and decent dual exhaust, I'm thinking there's no need for extra exhaust duration. The TW heads have excellent Intake/Exhaust flow balance.

A side benefit of TW heads: They are the ONLY 2.02/1.60 heads that'll fit a 305 engine! All others will have the big valves hitting the 305's cylinder wall.

EDIT: John posted while I was still typing the above. My heads are the original TW, NOT the Gen II. I always wondered what the difference was! Thanks, John!

I am running the 1st generation Twisted Wedge. I am running standered length pushrods on the exhaust. I am running 0.100 longer on the intake. I am running 1.5 roller tip rockers. 268 Xtreme cam.flat top 4 valve relief pistons, block hasn't been decked. I have about 9.7 to 1. I am thinking about trying 1.6 rockers.
First time I put the heads on i ran howard springs. I broke two of them. I was also running .100 longer pushrods on Intake and exhaust. Some one at summit told us that they were the correct length. I broke a valve guide. when I had the guide fixed I ordered the springs for my cam. The valves are shorter than normal valves.
As for performance, I like them alot. my combo is in my sig.

I have the G1 heads, but wasn't aware of the special roller rockers. I've been running the same 1.52 TFS rockers on both exhaust and intake. :eek: I'll be checking that geometry a bit closer this weekend...

I received the following from TFS tech support today.


G1: 180cc intake port, 64cc chambers, 13* intake / 23* exhaust valve
angles, "stepped" pushrod guideplates, Teflon seals, cast iron valveguides.

G2: 190cc intake port, 67cc chambers, 16* intake / 18* exhaust valve
angles, "flat" pushrod guideplates, Viton rubber valve seals, powdered metal (Or optional manganese bronze) valve guides.

Both versions have 2.02"/1.60" valves. However, The G1 heads use a set of shorter (Intake is 4.450", Exhaust is 4.750" long) than stock valves. Stock length is 4.910" .... The G2 heads use a set of valves that are .050" longer than stock valves (4.960" intake, 4.980" exhaust)

Cleaning up the bowls & polishing the chambers / ports is always a good idea. Do not remove the swirl vane in the intake port as you will be givng up alot of power due to reduced homogenization of the incoming air / fuel mixture. You can smooth & blend the vane into the port some, But do not remove it.

Originally posted by Schurkey:
NOBODY is going to make a stud girdle to fit the goofy angled valves, and there's no telling what the future holds in terms of upgraded cams, so oversized (and more rigid) studs seemed like a good idea at the time.
Actually, somebody does make a girdle. JOMAR performance manufactures a 1 piece girdle that utilizes set screws and jam nuts. Cost about $175 with the proper poly-locks. Thought you might like to know if you ever decide to step up. The biggest problem with these heads is finding a roller spring that will set-up at 1.75-1.80". They're out there, but you gotta look. Mine will be replaced in a couple months with a set of Darts. They've been ported and shaved to 60cc. They made a little over 600hp and gobs of torque on my motor. If you're interested or know anybody that is, let me know.

Edit- Oh yeah, Yella Terra also makes a pedestal mount shaft rocker for the twisted wedge (but they don't specify if its for g1 or g2). Just something else to think about.

John, you have mail.

Thanks for all the great info everyone. It is amazing to me that you can get better help and information about a product on this board than you can get from the manufacturer who is trying to sell the stuff.

I thought it was the exhaust that were angled different than the std 23* sbc head. But I only looked at them briefly, I'll check again tomorrow while at the shop. I'll bet its the intake like you guys said. I had mentioned something about the valves being "canted" as a lazy tounged way of saying that they were not the standard angle of regular heads.

It's the intake...that's why the special rockers on the intakes, and why I hadda grind heck out of my covers to clear the pushrod end of the intake rockers.

John, thanks for the tip about Jomar and Yella Terra. Yella is an Australian company, isn't it?