swishd23
Apr 15th, 07, 5:55 PM
Rewiring the rebuilt 396 on my '67. Down to the last couple of wires. Not sure what powers the ACCEL HEI Super Coil Electronic Distributor. MSD6AL has green & violet wires going to electronic pick-up (ok);orange & black to coil (ok)- there is a third wire (black) coming off the plastic terminal fitting (w/the orange & black) from the coil - Where does it go? What powers the distributor? Do I need to run a wire direct from the starter?
[I also am replacing the wiring harnesses in the engine compartment.] There are two wires (yellow & white/yellow/brown) which I don't think I need with my installation - are they needed at all? Last question - the other wiring harness has a red power wire going to alternator - and a plastic terminal fitting with a blue and a white wire which does not fit the terminal ends on the new alternator. Am I to splice those and put on regular terminal ends to fit the alternator connectors? Hopefully this is not too confusing - but three of us cannot figure it out yet! Thanks for any help.
gnicholson
Apr 15th, 07, 6:58 PM
MSD has wiring diagrams for off brand electrics. If I understand correctly the wiring should be the same as a standard hei. Make sure the coil you use is compatable with the msd 6.
undee70ss
Apr 15th, 07, 8:23 PM
Rewiring the rebuilt 396 on my '67. Down to the last couple of wires. Not sure what powers the ACCEL HEI Super Coil Electronic Distributor. MSD6AL has green & violet wires going to electronic pick-up (ok);orange & black to coil (ok)- there is a third wire (black) coming off the plastic terminal fitting (w/the orange & black) from the coil - Where does it go? Black goes to ground.
What powers the distributor?
The 6al powers the dist.
Do I need to run a wire direct from the starter?
You need to check the wire you are using that goes to small red on 6al, it should have power in both the crank and run positions. If it does, nothing else is needed. If it doesn't (like no power in crank position) there are several ways to correct this. If you are using the original resistor wire to the small red on 6al, this is fine as the small red pulls very little power and is only used to turn the 6al on. Just check it for power in both crank and run positions.
[I also am replacing the wiring harnesses in the engine compartment.] There are two wires (yellow & white/yellow/brown) which I don't think I need with my installation - are they needed at all? Last question - Factory wires? Did they originally go to original coil +? If so yellow went from starter "R" terminal to coil+, may or may not be needed depending on test above. White/yellow/brown (should also have a cloth covering) is the resistor wire. It can go to the 6al small red.
the other wiring harness has a red power wire going to alternator - and a plastic terminal fitting with a blue and a white wire which does not fit the terminal ends on the new alternator. Am I to splice those and put on regular terminal ends to fit the alternator connectors? Hopefully this is not too confusing - but three of us cannot figure it out yet! Thanks for any help. Car is originally a externally regulated charging system, new alternator is probably internally regulated. Go here to tell the difference between externally and internally alternators http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105661 You can use the internally regulated alternator, but will need to mod the wiring at the old voltage regulator plug see pic
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/alternator_wiring_pic2.JPG
Replace the original alternator connector with one for a internal alternator. you can get one at autozone, if you need a part# post back.
swishd23
Apr 16th, 07, 10:07 AM
I appreciate your help! Old wiring harness had no voltage regulator on it. Most of the wires were spliced/taped etc. because of lots of modifications. It worked without a voltage regulator - should I get one for the new wiring harness?
I have the 6al red wire on a toggle switch from a hot lead in the fuse box. I'll connect the resistor wire from the harness to the red wire along the firewall. Should that have an in-line fuse? Thanks again!
CHELKAMINO
Apr 16th, 07, 11:16 AM
Make it easy on yourself and get an MSD billet distributor. Direct bolt in and wiring to your 6AL box>>>>>>more time for you and your buddies to sit around and drink instead of think:beers:
undee70ss
Apr 16th, 07, 1:38 PM
I appreciate your help! Old wiring harness had no voltage regulator on it. Most of the wires were spliced/taped etc. because of lots of modifications. It worked without a voltage regulator - should I get one for the new wiring harness?Be certian of which type of alternator you are going to use. A externally regulated alternator needs a voltage regulator, a internally regulated one does not. A externally regulated alternator unregulated, will alays be at max output, which can damage the battery and other things. Since the connector didn't fit, its possible the car was already converted for a internal one. See link in above post to tell the difference between alternators or post some pics.
I have the 6al red wire on a toggle switch from a hot lead in the fuse box. I'll connect the resistor wire from the harness to the red wire along the firewall. Should that have an in-line fuse? Thanks again!
You can add a fuse, but one isn't really needed. make sure it goes to the small red, the large red goes to the battery or horn relay.