ok i took my hei unit out that was wired up with the msd 6al box

there was nothing wrong with my ignition, it was a tight fit behind my tunnel ram and i wanted to replace it.

i bought off ebay a NEW pro billet dist. and a pro comp coil, this dist has to be used with some kinda msd system or like.

i looked up the wire dia. at msd site since the seller said the dist. wires up just like a msd pro billet.

my procomp coil i put the orange wire on the + post and the black wire on the neg post............these came off the hei.....so same wires to make that coil work.

dist. has two wires comming out a black wire with a purple strip and a black wire with a tan strip.

now i hooked the purple strip wire to the purple msd box wire. ..and the tan strip to the green wire.......i hope this is right.

does it matter if the two wires coming out the dist. is backwards?

i got the system hooked up no big deal. and it started. a few minutes in the car running there was a back fire thru the exhaust like a 22 pop. and it was inconsistent. its just comming out the pass. side bank i thought it was number 4 plug but it still did it. i have checked many times over and the order is right 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2....timing is locked out at 38 total.

i let it run checking things over and finally the popping picked up more and it died and smoke came out the carbs on the tunnel ram???????


ive been up for long time working and trying to get things done for this weekend and im really tired cant think all that straight right now so i can use some fresh ideas.

going to bed thanks guys for any input.

Hmmmmm....purple to purple, brown to green??
I know my MSD is green/purple from dist to the same to the MSD box. I don't know what the brown wire is for, I would double check that first.

i run an msd dist with a mallory box, when i rewired the box at but it inside the car i switched the wires from the dist on accident and was doing just as you stated. so i just swapped the mag pick up wires and that was it.

does the mag still work no matter what if the two wires could be switched around? thats what im getting from your post yellow68ss.

after a few hours of sleep and rest i think i have a broken spark plug. it was a little rough trying to ge those taylor wires off and maybe i might have cracked one.

i think this is why the motor took more idle screw to stay at idle and the engine is cold so the popping dont happen till the engine gets hot enough to fire off the raw gas in the exhaust it could also explain why the idle drop down way more in gear.

its good to get sleep............

chelkamino the dist is a knock off, im sure they cant have the same colors as msd brand dist. i was just figuring the purple to purpel would be right. not much choice with the last wire remaining. i was kinda hoping maybe someone here bought same dist. as me and could share how they had it hooked up.


after work in about 13 hours i will check my plugs, i will go buy new ones anyways and get those changed. and i think the smoke from the tunnelr am was just reversion when the engine died, it turned back wards..........

thanks for comments.....

Maybe this will help. The violet wire is pos so maybe you can check to see which one from the dist is grounded. Also remember that you need a full 12 V for your ignition so you cannot use the old wire in the harness because it is a ballast wire. Just cover it up good so it does not short out and run a new one from your fuse box.


Nelson




http://www.photohost.org/gallery/data/500/1272msd-med.jpg

Not sure if this helps, but the Pro-Billet is PN 8360. The 6AL wiring instructions show a different scheme than you posted.

Here's the diagram from the MSD 6AL Instructions. My Pro-Billet has the exact same diagram in it.

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/medium/Wiring1.jpg

I went by what he said that he had two wires from the dist.

Oops, you are so right Redman. I just read the Pro-Billet part. Sorry.

hey all thanks for the replies.............i have it taken care of now.

it was a dead spark plug giving me problems, i think i was to rough with one on the #8 cylinder, i cracked it or something.

i put new plugs in it anyway since i needed to do that and it runs just fine now.

glad it was just a plug:thumbsup:

yes it will still run with the wires switched....but the timing is WAY off and then the cap and rotor are no longer in phase so the spark goes to other wires then attended

well i thought it was fixed..........but its not.

i took the car out for a drive and the first time i stepped on the gas under a load boom.... bam.... boom .......spit........ sputter...cough..........sneeze

i turned the car around and brought it back into the garage..........i was so upset.

i unhooked the two wires from the dist....the purple and tan color.....and switched them around......the car was hard to start and it sounded like crap and would not idle.......so i put them back.......


well that answers my earlier question about the wires......

brand new pro comp coil and pro billet dist. dont work!!!!!!

so i took the crap out of my car!

i replaced it with a brand new out of the box pro comp hei unit.

i locked out the dist. no weight or springs.

i gutted the module and wiring

i hooked up the pig tail wire for the msd box.

i dropped the hei in place with 38 degrees on the timing tab.

i hooked the orange wire up to the positive side of the hei unit
i hooked the black wire up to the neg. side of the coil

and i hooked a ground wire up to the middle which is the ground strap inside the cap.

whamo!!!!!!

the engine runs like a champ...........

checked the timing right on 38 total locked in.

i ran the engine hard, nothing wrong now,

so i dont know whats wrong with the pro billet dist. or pro coil.....it was all hooked up right......

Glad you found it

Since you replaced the dizzy and the problem went away, its possible the problem was rotor phasing,
http://www.msdignition.com/pdf/tech%20bulletins/tb_rotor_phasing.pdf

Since you replaced the dizzy and the problem went away, its possible the problem was rotor phasing,
http://www.msdignition.com/pdf/tech%20bulletins/tb_rotor_phasing.pdf

Yes, it's possible. My Jeep's 4.0l distributor has a tab on housing, can only go in one way. I know the rotor was in the right spot, but had popping/missing. Ends up, I had to tweak the distributor over against the bolt and lock it down for the rotor to be in phase. Cleared it right up. On the other hand, I've had popping/missing under load on HEI's when the mag pickup is going bad, too. :yes:

thanks for this info. i will be checking into this.

i thought maybe i had something hooked up wrong but its right.

i thought maybe since it was a small cap that maybe i was getting crossfire, so i drill some holes in the cap so air could circulate.

that didnt help. it would idle fine, but under load driving it, it was popping and just would not go, it was like it was hitting the rev limiter.

i was thinking maybe my coil was not grounded good enough.