Hi, A while back i've converted my 69 with parts from a 70 nova. Ever since the Brake pedal rides low. Any advice.

I used the power booster and master cylinder from the 70 nova. Is drilling a hole higher on the pedal an option? I'd rather not chop it up that way. Can anyone suggest what I should do? I'm thinking I should just buy a new Booster and Master Cylinder.

Right now I have front disc, but eventually would like to go disc all the way around.

Thanks!
Ando

Low pedal is usually caused by to much air gap in the rear brakes. Try adjusting the rear brakes.

Thanks will try that!... Though it was long ago that i've converted, I dont remember doing any adjustments to the rear drums. I will definately try that!So you dont think it has anything to do with the Booster/M.Cylinder coming out of a 70 nova?Thanks

If that is going to cause a problem it would be a different type of problem (effort required to apply the brakes, or the pedal bottoming out because the master is not pushing enough brake fluid to push the caliper pistons out.) I have never done this swap so I cannot say you will not have problems.

Low pedal is usually rear brake adjustment on rear drums.

Thanks - appreciate the info. Will give that a go. Still have a few weeks before I can actually get into it.

If your car has been sitting for a while, i would check the condition of the hose's and the fluid then try bleeding them

Cars been sitting for 13 years. I remember them being that way just after I converted them, Way before forums... I was relying on HOTROD MAG for the help. I used everything from the 70 nova - Spindles to Lugs. Bought new rotors though. Definately going to try to bleed the entire system.Thanks!

Our '69 disc brake brake pedal sits lower than the clutch pedal and it is all factory.

I agree, check the rear brake adjustment. If the pedal feels spongy, it could also be air in the system.

Another thing you might want to check is the bore diameter of the m/c. If you use the original Chevelle brakes together with a m/c from another car, the problem could be that the new m/c has a smaller bore than on a Chevelle. This will make the pedal travel further down, as the amount of fluid you move is smaller. I don't know what the diameters should be, but I'm sure someone else here has got the numbers you need to check this.

Edit: When I read your first post again, I saw that you said that the pedal "rides low". Does that mean that it simply sits lower when you're not braking? If that's the case, it may just be a difference in the lenght of the pushrod. That could be easily fixed by fabbing an extended shackle.

Yes, its rides lower with no weight applied. I remember reading about the pushrod being shorter, but was trying to confirm that here on the forums.

Is there a way of changing just the pushrod? or is it just going to be easier to replace the whole M/C?...

I'd rather just replace it with NEW parts.

The pushrod I'm talking about is the one that connects the pedal to the booster. It should have a clevis screwed onto it, so the easiest fix would be to find a longer clevis or extend the one you have.

If I remember correctly the push rod is adjustable. Maybe try that first. If not you can get a longer clevis at a hardwear store. Make sure there is a little free play in the pedal after you lengthen the rod. If it is too tight your brakes will drag and get hot.

Thanks for imput guys... will look for those options this weekend. :beers:

Not sure if you guys are stilling following this post.

I had a chance to look at the booster rod, and sure enough its not adjustable, atleast not at the pedal arm. Its got an E-Clip of sort in the "fork" part of the arm.

MORE INFO:
the pedal is shy about three inches from the top and will not come up anymore. I didnt have time to bleed them this weekend. Maybe during the week.

NOTICED: That my brake pedal (arm) had another hole above the current position? (whats it for??). I tride to disconnect the pedal and place it higher on the pedal, but it was hitting the firewall before it made it there.

I'll keep you guys posted, on what I find out.

The upper hole is for manual brakes, you need to use the lower hole for power brakes. I can't remember seeing a pushrod that wasn't adjustable, one way or another. Do you have a picture of it?

The upper hole is for manual brakes, you need to use the lower hole for power brakes.

isn't it the other way around?

Dont have a picture yet. I'll try to get some tonight....

isn't it the other way around?

No, the upper hole gives you the extra leverage needed for the manual brakes. And as a booster sits at an angle, you can't mount it in the upper hole anyway if you have power brakes.

Not sure of 70 Nova but did this change over using 69 Nova parts. Had to use different pushrod (Nova did not have clevis it just fit through hole in brake pedal. Ended up using top (manual) hole but made rod from 69 Chevelle and welded extension. Didn't hit firewall then. Just might help.

Twoteam
64 SS Chevelle
69 Malibu Coupe
69 Malibu 4 door
56 Chevy 409 4 spd.

Had to use different pushrod (Nova did not have clevis it just fit through hole in brake pedal

Exactly right. Too much to do today. The price of the booster is wheel worth it.

Keep'em coming guys!

okay here's the update...

Bought the 11" booster/MC combo, its in and it breaks really nice. :thumbsup: The important thing is it corrected the break like issue. My only thing is it seemed like i dont get a lot of travel, not a problem, cause it stops real smooth.:hurray:

Is 4 inches or so of pedal travel normal? It feels like it just hits a stopper but still way off the floor? :confused: