I want to lower my front end on the chevelle by 2", does anybody know where i can buy shortend coil springs?

take your pick. click (http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/category_10001_10002_10077_-1_10057)

Stock springs + 2" drop spindles = :D
See my sig.

Or just cut a coil and 1/3 to 1/2 off.

Crossfire,

I agree with Frank. Even though it will cost significantly more, dropped spindles are the only way to go. If you go with lowering springs or cut coils, you WILL affect the front end geometry. Cutting coils will change the dimensional relationship of the steering linkage and the lower control arm and this will lead to a bump-steer condition.
When non-stock coil spring dimensions are used, the only way to get the steering geometry corrected is to bend the steering arm on the spindle (NOT a good idea), or relocate the steering box and idler arm.
In summary, a set of dropped spindles, with stock length springs, will be much safer and save a whole lot of work. Now, I know also that many people will come back and say that cutting coils has worked for them, but bump steer is almost always the result. In the case of a drag car, the bump steer condition WILL result in reduced elapsed times and could very well result in squirrely handling.
For anyone looking for real good dropped spindles for Chevelles, contact Superior Spindles in Los Angeles. He has a real neat dropped spindle package, with Wilwood disc brakes. Kind of pricey, but excellent quality/value.

Actually, most if not all dropped spindles will also induce bumpsteer through geometry changes. Most drop spindles are based on the GM B-body (and later F and G body) spindles. You can run a search here and find all the information about bump steer and "B" spindles.

I have also read that bump steer is a common problem on all stock-height A-body cars but it is worsened by using "B" spindles.

Crossfire,

I agree with Frank. Even though it will cost significantly more, dropped spindles are the only way to go. If you go with lowering springs or cut coils, you WILL affect the front end geometry. Cutting coils will change the dimensional relationship of the steering linkage and the lower control arm and this will lead to a bump-steer condition.
When non-stock coil spring dimensions are used, the only way to get the steering geometry corrected is to bend the steering arm on the spindle (NOT a good idea), or relocate the steering box and idler arm.
In summary, a set of dropped spindles, with stock length springs, will be much safer and save a whole lot of work. Now, I know also that many people will come back and say that cutting coils has worked for them, but bump steer is almost always the result. In the case of a drag car, the bump steer condition WILL result in reduced elapsed times and could very well result in squirrely handling.
For anyone looking for real good dropped spindles for Chevelles, contact Superior Spindles in Los Angeles. He has a real neat dropped spindle package, with Wilwood disc brakes. Kind of pricey, but excellent quality/value.

You are actually backwards. Cutting the coils/lowering springs is a better choice than drop spindles. The drop spindles are the ones that change the geometry in a bad way.

Actually, most if not all dropped spindles will also induce bumpsteer through geometry changes. Most drop spindles are based on the GM B-body (and later F and G body) spindles. You can run a search here and find all the information about bump steer and "B" spindles.

I have also read that bump steer is a common problem on all stock-height A-body cars but it is worsened by using "B" spindles.

You are right.

You are actually backwards. Cutting the coils/lowering springs is a better choice than drop spindles. The drop spindles are the ones that change the geometry in a bad way.



You are right.

Dude, You have know idea what the hell you are talking about and I wish you would shut up!!!!!! :D

Sensory-overload of wrongness in this topic. :eek: :D

Even though it will cost significantly more, dropped spindles are the only way to go.I disagree... here's why:

If you go with lowering springs or cut coils, you WILL affect the front end geometry.This is true, but nearly every change a 2" spring-drop will create, is actually an improvement... very small improvements, but improvements none the less.

UCA Angle: not pointed downward as much, camber curve still backwards, but backwards to a lesser extent...
-better lateral grip
-reduced tire wear on the outside edge
-reduced under-steer
-tire more flat on road surface in dive (braking) resulting in shorter stopping distances.

LCA Angle: level
-reduced lateral scrub

Suspension Travel: Front can travel farther before hitting upper bumpstop... result: more weight transfer.

Cutting coils will change the dimensional relationship of the steering linkage and the lower control arm and this will lead to a bump-steer condition.No it does not. This has absolutely no effect on the relationship between the arc of the A-arm compared to the arc of the tie-rod (Total bumpsteer). It will have a very insignificant effect on the ammount of bumpsteer within it's normal travel, but not enough to notice, but without a bumpsteer gauge, I'm only guessing that it would be reduced as both arcs would be closer together when both are closer to being level.

When non-stock coil spring dimensions are used, the only way to get the steering geometry corrected is to bend the steering arm on the spindle (NOT a good idea), or relocate the steering box and idler arm.Nothing wrong with bending them, if you know what you're doing with metallurgy... They are forged, so they will not break if heated, bent, and cooled correctly. Up about 1/2" will eliminate ~85% of the factory bumpsteer, although there are better ways to do this... Howe Precision Tall lower balljoints will both reduce bumpsteer and improve the camber curve.

For anyone looking for real good dropped spindles for Chevelles, contact Superior Spindles in Los Angeles. He has a real neat dropped spindle package, with Wilwood disc brakes. Kind of pricey, but excellent quality/value.Their lower cost kits are absolute garbage. See below... not sure about their more expensive ones (they show off the shiny rotors, and hide the product they're really selling. :confused: )

Most drop spindles are based on the GM B-body (and later F and G body) spindles.Actually, most of the lower-cost ones use S-10/G-body spindles, which have long, low cast steer arms, and puny 10" brakes that weren't adequate to stop the S10s and G-bodies that weighed way less than our Chevelles. The long & low steer arm slows the turning ratio, widens the turning radius, and nearly doubles factory bumpsteer.

The drop spindles are the ones that change the geometry in a bad way.Not all, Fatman and Heidts make drop-spindles that are taller (Fatman = 2" taller, Heidts = 1.5" taller) which corrects the camber curve, however Fatman screwed up and lowered the steer arm mount ~0.5" (for bumpsteer reduction on Camaros and Novas) which doubles factory bumpsteer, and Heidts left them in the stock location, so bumpsteer is equal to stock. (mediocre) Both will require aftermarket upper A-arms though.

WOW, guess I have been told! I stand by all of the points that I made in my original post. Just the facts, based upon many, many years of setting up drag race cars (including suspensions), measuring (and correcting) bump steer, by extending tie rod ends, relocating steering boxes, idler arms, etc., etc.

I lowered my 66 about an inch in front by cutting about 2/3 of a coil off the front springs. Got it aligned afterwards, and put new shocks on. Seems to ride and handle fine to me, for a 41 year old car.

I have two brand F pony cars, one with shorter springs and one with cut springs, and I really can't tell any difference. I have well over 100k miles on the lowering springs and they still seem perfect. The cut set is on my track toy and they work fine also.

Unless you are into cones or something, I doubt you would tell the difference in cut or not. And cutting was much less expensive.

The drop spindles seem like a good alternative also. I would think stock length spindles would be a good setup for just an appearance lowering effort.

Guess I should have been more specific in my original post . . .

My mention of drop spindles was in reference to spindles which are manufactured for a specific application such as a Chevelle. It was not my intention to condone or recommend Mickey Mouse fixes, such as big car or little truck spindle adaptions. I would be the first to point out that using spindles from a different application will lead to geometry problems.

That is why I mentioned Superior Spindles. They manufacture forged spindles for specific applications such as Chevelle. They market these products under their own name, but I believe that they supply spindles to other vendors as well. They do not market sindle kits using components from 'B' body and S-10.
Utilizing the correct dropped spindles will lower the chassis, while keeping the relationship between the steering arms and lower control arms in the correct geometry. Chopping coils will lead to a bump steer condition, however the condition may not be severe and may not even be noticable to the driver. But, it will be there and will affect performance in the case of a race car.

In my opinion, bending the steering arms to compensate for chopped coils is still not a good fix. Yes, I am aware that steering arms can be heated, bent and then returned to normalcy by quenching in water, oil, mayonnaise, instant Jello, Summers Eve (or whatever the trick of the week dictates). But the spindles will need to be installed on the car in order to get the bend correct and you will play he!! getting the parts quenched before they begin to cool.