I've always been handy but have never ever attempted body work. I've got a desire to do it. it will involve 1/4 panel, pin hole repair in rear pan, some small dents and painting. The body shops I've talked to won't paint it if I do the prep work. I did find one that would but with NO guarantee.

What kind of envriorment will I need to do a good paint job. And what kind of compressor and spray gun should I use if I decide to do it.

Also, should I use some kind of rotisery. I'm blasting the thing to bare metal top to bottom and interior area. Thanks for any help.

Jim
72SS

Jim,
You should buy the biggest compressor that your budget will allow. I have a Craftsman 5 1/2 horse 30 gallon compressor and I still don't think its enough to run my D/A sander. I have yet to run a paint gun on it but don't think the size will stop me from trying http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif As for the body work start with some metal laying around the garage that has a few dents in her and try banging it out and your putty filling abilities will quickly improve and allow you to move onto bigger and better things (like your Chevelle). If you don't have any banged up spare fenders around then go to the local "Pick your Part" and buy one to try out your skills on. This is a good way to start out. Then when you have boosted your confidence then start with the small things on your 'Velle and go from there. Remember, there are tons of people on this site willing to help you with your questions so don't feel like you should know everything about body work. It just takes time. And from welding up some patch panels on my fender last weekend, I can tell you that it is a great feeling to know you did the work yourself. You may also want to find out from some friends, co-workers, ect. if anyone around you has done some of this work before and could show you the small steps involved in this kind of project. Now with the paint shops in your area not wanting to do the final paint...most shops these days will only do insurance work or will only do your car from start to finish. This is because they are a business and this is where they make money. If your car is only there for a couple of days but your only paying them to paint your car they are losing money by your car taking up space to some other car that they could be doing paint and body work on from start to finish. Plus, they don't know what kind of body work has gone on underneith that you have done. If you search long and hard (have you ask any chevelle fans on here where a good body shop that will work with you is located in your area?) you will eventually find one that is a perfect place for your prized ride. You can do this Jim!!! It just takes lots of time, effort, patience and not to mention money http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif but it will be worth it at the end of the tunnel when that stranger walks up to you at the local car show and says, "Damn who did your paint and body work?" You can then proudly boast, "Well thanks, I did it!" If you have any more questions feel free to e-mail me. Good luck and when the 72 is done....can I have a ride?

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I need GM style rear 1/4's for 70-72!! e-mail me.

lawrnece KS, get me your email so I can talk to ya. Thanks for the boost!!!

Jim Owens
72SS

A few tips:
1. Not to discourage you, but you need good (read: expensive) equipment. Compressor, spray gun, respirator. On the flip side, it may only take one project for it to pay for itself. Look at air output of compressors, not HP. Most HVLP spray guns require 11+ CFM, and many so-called 5HP compressors only put out about 7CFM. If you don't have the proper equipment you will get frustrated.
2. Read up as much as you can. A good place to start is www.autobodystore.com. (http://www.autobodystore.com.) You will learn an unbelievable amount there and will get very good advice from the message board. The Painting 101 video that is sold there is worth getting for beginners.
3. You need an ultra clean shop or booth to get a really good looking finish. I've sprayed in a dirty garage and have gotten a lot of dirt/dust specs in the job.
4. Safety first. Modern base/clear coat paints contain isocynates (sp?), a known carcinogen. My Dad and I invested in a fresh air respirator for about $400 I think - a lot of money but what is your health worth?
5. I am still a beginner but the time and money invested so far is worth it IMO.
Good luck.

Jim,
My e-mail address is DieLS1@aol.com I will be heading back to school (rock chalk jayhawk) http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif and will be reading my e-mail quite often if I don't have the professors giving me projects to work on all the time (damn statics and dynamics class again http://www.chevelles.com/forum/frown.gif). Feel free to write me with any question. If I don't know the answer we will find it out for you! Talk to you soon.


Joe Whiles

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I need GM style rear 1/4's for 70-72!! e-mail me.

[This message has been edited by 72SSAbody (edited 08-16-2000).]

OR: depending on your time and willingness to do physical labor, you DO NOT need a compressor or air tools for bodywork.
I have NOT done paint - left it to the pros.
A few (MUCH less expensive) electric tools will do bodywork.
For significant amounts of patch work you WILL need a MIG welder (or TIG).
Inexpensive body tools (hammers, dollies , etc) are available at Harbor Freight.
Use good quality body filler - not Bondo from Wal-Mart.
This does not need to be a lifetime investment or a second mortgage.
I did my bodywork and am glad.
Go for it - you can do it. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif
OH-Yeah - - -those "few pinholes" are usually more than you first think. Take an awl and jab at the entire area around these pinholes,if it goes thru, cut it out and replace it.

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Make it look the way you like it, forget what the other guys say!

[This message has been edited by 283v8 (edited 08-18-2000).]

[This message has been edited by 283v8 (edited 08-18-2000).]

I think you need to look at the metal and filler work before worrying about paint. You need to look further for a shop willing to do it. However, no one will guarantee the finish when they don't know how the repairs where done. You should be able to find a place that will guarantee the paint only, but not problems from thee filler or body work coming through from below.

You need an extremely clean enviroment with fresh air ventilation to do paint (read sealed room with big fan here). I was around while the local body man cleaned his booth for a paint job. I bet he spends 3- 4 hours cleaning before beginning to paint.

For the primer you don't need to worry about a little dirt. You will board sand the primer before painting which will remove any dirt marks. You can do primer and board sanding work in your garage and then take it to a booth for final painting.

Follow the large compressor advice. A 2-stage is the best investment. By this I mean a real one (5+hp, 80 gallon upright), not that little CH 120VAC plug in one.

Get a decent MIG or wire feed welder for patch work. The Lincon 120VAC with the 4 heat settings seems to be a good unit for not too much money. There are others out there.

Get a good in-line sander and long board sander. All other sanders are no good for finished body work, no matter what anyone tells you. The DA sander may be quick, but it does not leave a flat surface.

I watched the body guy in our area put some filler in and from watching him I now can do it 100% better than I could before. You need a really wide knife (try a big plastic drywall one - 8" or so) and work the filler until it starts to harden. It will be flat enough you can sand it out by hand with a board sander with only 5 minutes of work.

Peter

I never regretted painting the cars that I painted for myself and friends/family. At the mid point of each project it seems to really suck, but there is nothing like having it turn out great and being able to tell others that YOU did it yourself. Rare thing these days.

As far as a painting environment goes you can do it in your garage IF you are very meticulous. When I paint a car/truck I take EVERYTHING out of the garage, wipe down the ceiling/lights/walls, then wipe off what I bring back in, then wash the vehicle and bring it in, then hang plastic around all the walls. It will take you an entire day to do it right. Make sure that you use a wax and grease remover and tack cloth before you paint. Also, it pays to use real masking paper - don't use newspaper.

To do the work that you want to do you will need a mig welder and a compressor to do your sandblasting. One of the others people who replied was right about not needing all of the latest air powered tools. I did most of my body jobs with manual board sanders. Hutchins makes a great one.

When it is all said and done you will have about $600 into paint/tape/filler/solvents....and plan on about $2000 for compressor, welder, sanding boards......So when you are all done you will have about $2600+ into it, but if you ever have to do another one your costs will be quite a bit less.

Have fun and if you need anymore info there are a lot of helpful people here. And don't forget the respirator! 3M makes a good one.

Mike

[This message has been edited by Unclepennybags (edited 08-18-2000).]

hey you guys, thanks alot for the boost. I'm going for it. What is the worst that can happen? Screw up a 1/4 panel at $499.00. I'll just buy another. I am going to take advise I got the other day and buy a used old fender that needs welding and repair and practice, practice, practice body work and painting that sucker. Thanks again.

The wife reminded me though, the basement has to be finished before any spending on the Chevelle. Darn, I knew there was somewthing I was forgetting. Wonder what she will have planned after the basement is done?????

Jim
72SS

Jim - What ever you do, don't buy a junk fender to work on. Go to a dealership body shop and pull one (or several) out of the dumpster. They are free and there is usually very little wrong with them. Great practice pieces!

Jim I have been trying the body and paint thing for a few years.It is something that takes alot of patience.You have to be willing to resand a panel that you thought was done because when you put primer on it the flaws just jumped out at you.You could do alot the body work without expensive tools.As far as welders go I have been using a lincoln sp 100 for 11 years,and it works great.go for the gas though,that flux core crap is for the birds.You can get 6 horse 60 gallon compressors anywhere now for 400 dollars.try and keep eveything as clean as possible.With the base clearcoat type of paints I have seen stuff you wouldnt believe sanded and buffed out.A friend of mine paints in his garage all the time and I have seen him take alot of stuff out of his paint,,the base clearcoats can be very forgiving..Its the prep work that takes the time just be patient and good luck.
69 ss chevelle
69 camaro
65 nova--9.7s through the mufflers