What is the coldest temp. I can still spray
PPG urethane primer and not run in to problems. I have a hood thay need to be sprayed since it has some bare metal showing through. The weather man keeps saying high 50's and it still hasn't got warmer than 45 in two days. My shop is not heated. Can I spray it now and and sand it later when it warms up and has had a chance to cure? Thanks in advance for any help.

I am in exactly the same situation and I am not a painter but, I do have a very good contact at an auto paint store and she has told me not to do any spraying until the temperature is at least 60 degrees and that includes the metal being painted. Where I live that means April at the earliest.

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Redrum (or Mike)
68 Corvette - 383 CI 427 HP
69 SS Chevelle being updated to Pro-Touring
97 Z-28

[This message has been edited by Redrum (edited 01-12-2001).]

Your paint store is right, a very minimum of 55 is needed for urethanes. Now, I had the same problem, so I went to the hardware store and bought a heater attachment for a 5 gallon propane bottle. It is made by "Mr Heater" and was about $40.00, works like a charm, brought the garage up to about 70 degrees. Don't get a catalytic heater, it only heats items it is pointed at, not the air in the room.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T

I got a heater and shot the hood tonight, This was the first time to use my new cobalt gun that martinsr suggested. It seemed to spray very dry. The only way I could seem to get it to smooth out was to close the fan way in. The primer is was using is K36 from ppg. I tryed adjusting the pressure between 45- and 60 and nothing seemed to help. It was about 60 degrees in the shop when I sprayed. The tip is 1.6any sugestions?

either too much air in the spray or not enough reducer, double check your gun adjustments and mixing ratios.

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Dave (NY)
70 chevelle ss396 conv
66 chevelle ss396 hdp/conv
72 chevelle
55 chevy prostreet
69/71 camaros
61 impala bubbletop
TC member #493

Gearhead, how narrow of a fan? The cobolt with the heavy urethane primer won't spray that wide of a pattern, maybe 6 to 8 inches tops.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T

There is no reducer with that primer. It just mixes 5:1 with hardner. The fan needed to be more like 3-4" to spray smooth. That was fine one the edges but mad it a pain on the wide surface of the hood. Do I need to widen the fan and slow down? If I do I will be going very slow. How far off the surface sould I be. What line pressure should I be using?

I tried to read the "P" sheet on the K36 and it tells me at the PPG web site that it is a Wet on Wet sealer. To see the primer surfacer "P" sheet see #169P and there is no 169P in their listing! Jeez PPG is the best when it comes to "P" sheets, I was surprised. If you can get a hold of the "P" sheet, it may shed some light.
Lets try on our own, the pressure should be around 50 PSI at the GUN. if you don't have a gauge AT THE GUN, get one.
You should be 6 to 8" away from the surface and the speed should be less than a foot a second.
Yes, try widening the fan and slowing down.
What kind of air compresser do you have?

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T

The owner of the body shop where we are doing the body work on our '69 ELKE had trouble with the K36 5 to 1 ratio also.

I haven't had any trouble with the old PPG Yellow ever myself, so when I spray the 5 to 1 next week, I will need all the help I can get.

We can get his shop "Real Toasty" by using his Keroscene Heater.

I use a gravity feed sprayer with the guage showing the air pressure.

This should be our final primer coat until we find someone to do the "Final" touchup and "Finished" product.

We didn't paint the Elke it's finished color yet as we are going to attempt to get into the 200 MPH CLUB this spring at Muroc/Edwards Air Force Base (SCTA) this spring. If no mishaps occur, it should have it's final color by early summer.

Any and all info greatly appreciated.

Team Members Forever.

Richard and Judy White, MAXX2


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So are you saying the K36 isn't even anything other than a sealer. I wanted somthing that could be blocked. Did the paint store sell me the wrong thing? I don't have a gauge on the gun, just on the regulator. I will get one. The compressor is a 5hp 30 gal craftsman non-serviceable type. I know it is small but I thought it would be ok for panel work. I would be going about a foot every 5 seconds it I slowed down enough.

Gearhead, the K36 can be a sealer or a primer. The old ratio was 5.1.1 with the DT reducer of your choice. The new "compliant" (for national rule) is now reducer at 5.1.
This product lays out pretty flat with little overspray, so you have to look at something else to be causeing your problem.

Depending on the hose that you are using you could be dropping up to 25 PSI and a bunch of your CFM. Without a gauge at the gun, you are lost. The tank on your compressor is a bit small and pump may not be able to hold up to the CFM draw of the gun (about 12 CFM). I know that with my old compresser (even smaller than yours) it would do ok with one panel but if you went more than that the pressure would drop so much that the gun just couldn' break up the fluid.
Mimic painting that hood with nothing in the gun, see when the compresser starts and listen to the air flow towards the end of the panel, I have a feeling it is dropping a LOT. That is when you are getting closer and slowing down.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T

[This message has been edited by MARTINSR (edited 01-14-2001).]

Thanks, I will give that a shot this comming week.
Also thanks to everyone else that had input.
This is the greatest sight on the web hands down. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

One last question MartinSR. When I put a gauge on the gun, do I need 50psi while air is flowing or with the flow stopped?

With the trigger pulled. And if you really wnat to test your compresser, pull the trigger for two minutes, you sould not have more than a few pounds drop. This would be ideal, I am sure you will have more and don't sweat it if you do. It just is a good test to show where you are at.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T

I bought a regulator for the gun today. I havent had a chance to spray with it yet but I tried it out dry. Where I was spraying the other day produced only 18 lbs to the gun. I also tryed the compressor test. It kicked on
in 37 seconds and after 2 minutes was down to
30lbs from the intial 50lb setting. Thanks again MartinSR and everyone else that replied. Looks like its time for a compressor.

We noticed that the K36 was easy to block/sand. The K200 is much harder to sand, however, I have noticed that it blocks truer.

In fact, this past Monday as I touched up an area near the very bottom of the back panel below the tail light, when I sanded thru the 2+ coats of K200/1+ coats of K36 that the buildup was quite thick.

I hope "Luck" is with me this weekend as I paint 2 coats of K36 over the entire Elke.

I'll watch the guage on the gun as club members have suggested.

Team Members Forever.

Richard and Judy White, MAXX2


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As MARTINSR said..."the new "compliant" for national rule"... probably makes all of this stuff old hat.

Here is the prefered method for appling a Basecoat/Clearcoat:

1. Apply a Epoxy Primer DP 40, 50, 74, or 90 epoxy primer sealer. The different numbers indicate color. Use a primer color that is closest to the final color of the car.

2. Next is the sandable primer Primer Surfacer. K-36 has a shorter pot life & dries faster than K-200 but is not as user friendly as the K-200 I recommend the K-200 if your a novice http://www.chevelles.com/forum/wink.gif I haven't noticed any differance in hardness between the two though.

3. Spay it with the Epoxy Primer prior to the final color coat. The final coat must be sprayed within 72 hours after the epoxy primer is sprayed or you'll have to scotch brite the entire area in order to get good adhesion.

4. Spray the Basecoat-Clearcoat wet sand to desired smoothness.

I think DCU Concept 2020 Urathane clear has the highest sheen.

DP primer/sealers come in different colors. DP-90 = black
DP-74 = red oxide
DP-50 = white (I think)
DP-40 = yellow (I think)
The new DP primers are now lead free, i.e. DP-74LF

I don't have a K-36 spec sheet, but I'm pretty sure it has the hardener also. This is the ratio's for the K-200:
Primer Surfacer......K-200.......4 parts
Primer Hardener......K-201.......1 part
Reducer (60-70 temp)..DT-860.......1 part

Note: The reactor in the DP sealer may not "kick" if you spray at a tempurature below 55 degrees and will not harden. It'll be soft for ever http://www.chevelles.com/forum/frown.gif

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Dale
Lowered '67 Elcamino
ZZ430HP / 4L60
"Canyon Carver"
www.chevelles.com/showroom/elkydriveway1.jpeg (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/elkydriveway1.jpeg)

My $400 '93 FireBird
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/D:%5cMyPhotos%5cFireBird.JPG



[This message has been edited by Cardiac (edited 01-19-2001).]

Cardiac;

Heard anything from Don that was with Sallee Chevrolet? He emailed us when he moved to Portland, and haven't heard a thing since.

We talked to another Parts Dept. sales person, however, he didn't have near the knowledge that Don had/has.

Any other GMPP contacts that you would personally recommend?

Team Members Forever.

Richard and Judy White, MAXX2



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Sprayed the PPG K36 this weekend. Not as easy as K200, however, it turned our just fine. You must clean out the gun/filter/needle after every coat, otherwise, it starts to jam (sprays funny=uneven fan/spitting).

Wet sanded all day (600), and will have to tomorrow before applying next coat.

Hope this helps.

Team Members Forever.

Richard and Judy White, MAXX2

P.S. CARDIAC. Anything from Don/Sallee Chevrolet?


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I think you are working harder that you need to. 600 is for finish sanding. Remember the K36 will easily fill 120 or 180 scratches so you can sand with 120 which is much easier.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T

MARTINSR is dead on. Definitely use 120 or 180 grit paper on the K36! 600 will take forever on the K36 or K200 primer and will cause you to work EXTRA hard - more than necessary at the point you're at. Just got done primering my Chevelle with the K200 and it is some really great stuff. Best primer I've seen used. My bodyman/painter is really excited about using this product and he really has the talent to get the job done right! After the K200 we will be using DP74. Getting closer to final paint!! Of course, that will only happen after all the hours of block sanding that will be necessary to get the body super straight. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by LVMAXX:
Cardiac;

Heard anything from Don that was with Sallee Chevrolet? He emailed us when he moved to Portland, and haven't heard a thing since.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I haven't heard anything http://www.chevelles.com/forum/confused.gif Tom Sallee has been pretty good to me in the past, other than Tom I don't know who else you can turn to?

http://www.ppg.com/cr-refinish/Phase1/frmProductInfo.asp

This is PPG site. Enter number for product info sheets, you can also get MSDS and other info. I just downloaded and printed out the sheets for K200, DBU, DCU 2020. Lots of info. For K36 use no spaces just typ in K36, P-169S is the form number.

Lou



[This message has been edited by Delanson350 (edited 01-30-2001).]

Richard, By the way iven if you have the patience or you are in prison or something and have a lot of time to kill, You don't want to use the 600. When you use too fine of paper it goes down into the low spots and doesn't work blocking the panel like you want. The 120 or 180 will quickly cut the high spots down and get the job done.

Lou, just so you know, every time you go back and change your post, you can delete the last "this message edited by....." note at the bottom, so even if you edit it a dozen times there will only be 1 "this message edited by..." notes. Just a tip, it distracts from your post. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif



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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T