This is my car with new skins.
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/YenkoChevelle69/Drivernssidequarterskin.jpg http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/YenkoChevelle69/Drivernssidetaillight.jpg

I didn't take my camera to the shop to take updated pix, but I did sand on the big area of filler that you see. I used a DA and managed to knock most of the excess off. A little installation info. He installed the skins by cutting about an inch below the peak of the 1/4 and welded the new ones on UNDER the old ones to save the trim studs. The drivers side was worse due to an accident and he had to go up near the studs. Now, I can't get the DA near the studs b/c it tears the paper up and he really piled it on by the studs. There is a bump about the size of your thumb at the top about a foot from the end of the quarter. It comes OUT, not in. What do i do there? Also the metal around the rear marker lights are distorted. Do I take a dolly and hammer to that? Also there is a noticable dip about 1/2 inch under the trim studs where it goes from the old 1/4 to the new one. What do I need to do? I sanded the sail panel and covered all the bare metal with OMNI MP-182, with fast hardener. This is my first attempt at real body work and I want to look good when I'm finished. What are some tips? How do I get that nice 69 body line back that runs right below the vynil top trim? Over all I am SUPER happy with the work he did when I welded everything back together. I'm just a novice is all and need some advice. I have a DA, the smaller sander that makes a right angle and holds the 2-3 inch discs....

Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

first your best bet is to do away with the studs you can replace then then go and buy a long board and a flex board. then some long board sand paper. i like to use 80 grit . your not suppose to do bodywork with a d.a . there is a lot of informatiom on body work on this site do a search then read everything. then ask questions . i hope this helps a little.

Not trying to sound like a smart arse but why not ask the body man that did the work?

Anyway in my book you should strip the area to metal prior to applying filler. In those pics you have filler butted right up to and even on top of the old paint. I would strip the area a good foot around that filler. The reason is you are leveling that filler to blend in with the metal not the paint.
That is just one of my pet peeves smile.gif

A da sander in hte hands of hobbiest who doesnt know how to properly run it and cause more damage then good. Dont get me wrong running it over the surface to knock it down is fine, but finish off the filler with a da :eek: . Get yourself a nice set of boardsanders. Eastwood sells Hutchins board sanders with a cost of around 20 bucks a board.

Just one last suggestion, dump the OMNI in the trash where it belongs. Am sorry but a car like that deservces something better then the bottom of the barrel products. If you stick with good quality products like PPG's deltron line, dupont or S-W's ultra 7000 line you will be a happier person in end. Am a very firm believer in you get what you pay for as in paint products and with OMNI its just not worth the effort let alone the tree that died to print its label smile.gif

Did a quick search for ya its about block sander
http://www.chevelles.com/cgi-bin/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=008196

Originally posted by sevt_chevelle:
Not trying to sound like a smart arse but why not ask the body man that did the work?

B/c he mainly does full 1/4s. He fools with copo's etc. Anyway, he is amazing with welding, but I'm not so sure about his filler skills.

Be sure to seal up that lap joint on the inside of the panel, any condensation/moisture will collect there and cause corrosion in the future. The best installation in my opinion would have been a butt joint along the length of the panel but since it's already lapped make sure you seal the seam well. Wet the seam down well with a good metal primer then use seam sealer, push the sealer in tight trying to fill any voids and it should be fine. Cut that filler down with 36 grit first then skim it again with a light coat, if you try and shape it with finer sandpaper you'll waste a lot of time and paper. Bob