After the metalwork is complete the real magic takes place, the smoothing of the bondo uh I mean plastic filler,I know the key is sanding followed by more sanding but what is the trick to getting strait body panels? The more I sand the more it looks like the ocean !

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Block Sanding http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

Someone more experienced will chime in soon, but I believe that will calm the waters http://www.chevelles.com/forum/wink.gif

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Tommy B.
71-72 Malibu (http://www.geocities.com/beldarr/Chevelle.htm)
"I'm high all right, but on the real stuff
High octane gasoline
A clean windshield
And a shoe shine"

First off, it's all a matter of lighting and not sanding. Ya, that sounds wierd, I know.

Get a "shop light" and set it up so that it sites down the panel. (not directly shining on the panel) The "shadows" will show you the shape and where you need to sand.

Think about this; when you look at a car that has a great paint job and body work, what you are in reality are noticing are the reflections in the paint. If there wasn't anything to be reflected, you couldn't tell if it was straight or not. It's all subliminal and you don't really think about it.

That said; I'd recommend that you pick up a "long board" and the sand paper for it. Sand lightly! Even with a long board, if you press hard, it will take on the bumps that are already there.

Think about the direction that you are sanding. It can make a big difference.



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Wes. Vann
Technical Reference section
Gold Member #5

So this brings up and interesting point, when should you stop using "long board" and start block sanding. How do you know when you have reached that point or not.

I made the mistake on my first paint job and did not block sand the car at all and it looks "like the ocean".

Also, when doing sheetmetal repair, the metal should be restored to its original contours as close as possible. The body filler is intended to be used to hide the scratches and small dings from the grinders and body hammers. When finished, the filler should be no more than 1/8th of an inch thick. It's not really meant to be used to build up lines and contours.

I know I am going to hear about this one. Get rid of the DA sander if you are using one, it's for production work. A long board is not needed in most cases, just a plane old rubber block and a soft block. I use the soft block first for around the wheel wells and other places that have a contour. When you block sand use and X motion, go one direction and then in another like an X. This will cut down all the high spots. It's almost imposible to screw up with a sanding block. Keep plenty of water handy and keep you work wet and clean off the sanding residue. When the panals are wet you will be able to see where the works needs to be done, it's just like what your car will look like with a shiny paint job on it. Most people end up cutting groves and gouges in there body when they use a DA sander because there really is no way to control it and where you work stoped and when the DA hit the body again.

A trick I used was a guide coat of spray paint. Use a sandable filler/primer on the body and dust it very lightly with a darker color sandable priimer from a spray can. I used gray primer and dusted a coat of black on it. Use a paint stick with 350 wrapped around it and lots of water. I dunked a medium size towel in a bucket and layed it on the panel and let the water run across the panel while I sanded. Use light strokes.
Where ever the black spots are is still low.
Use the longest board you can in big open areas. Also, when you think you are done, spend another week on it. You will be glad you did.

Dave


[This message has been edited by SS_Dave (edited 01-14-2003).]