Well I finally got arround to do the bench to bucket conversion. I read every thread here many times and I was still surprised of my inabtness. I thought that with the 4 piece brackets that I would just bolt the two inboards in with the holes already in the inner brackets, use the rear outboard original bench hole, then drill the single front outboard where it just matched up with the seat in place..... well stupid me. Thats not going to work or be safe... Now I want to know what do you think someone would charge if I ,remove the pass. seat, drive the car with the drivers side loose, yea I know carefully,. Removed sill plates,seat belt retractor,etc.. all that would be needed is to ....a, identify the mounting position,and b. weld the brackets... any guestimate?

I'd just call a body shop and ask them what they would charge. I wouldn't think it would take too long.

I too was going to do a bucket seat transfer. From what i reading also the stock outside bench seat brackets wont work. I have a pair of mint 69 buckest i might be selling soon i guess. Anybody have any pictures of the outside brackets..? I bought the aftermarket inside 1 piece mounting brackets years ago. Those are no good too..

Tony

besides a body shop you should be able to call a sheetmetal shop (HVAC) and or a welding shop and take your car to them, show them what needs to be welded in and I bet you will get a more fair (cheaper price). I had no problems with my 64 in using the one piece brackets. I made sure the seat rails were in the same position (left and right). I bolted the adapter to the inner seat rail and then bolted the outter rails to the original bench seat holes (with a little flexing of the seat rails) and then marked where they needed to be welded. I then removed the seats and the adapter from the seat. I placed the bracket in place (where previously marked) I tack welded it and refit the seat before my final wedling. You can use sheetmetal screws to fit it before taking it to get it welded.

heck, I'd do it for beer and pizza. I don't think you'd get charged 50$ for that job. You scribe em and let them tack em, simple.

i'd do it for free! if you lived closer !

Call the tool rental place and do a 4 hour rental on a spot welder...the kind with just copper electrodes and no wire or anything. They used to call them panel spotters. That way you don't throw any welding sparks in the car and either catch it on fire or etch your glass. Sparks of any kind will melt into the glass and leave pits and once that happens it is basically ruined. You could also put them in with a few self tapping screws and go to an exhaust shop and have them remove the screws and weld it from underneath (safer). I'd say no more than $50.

Dave

OK, it seems the general consensus is to put the brackets on the seats, then place the seats w/ brackets in the car and try to get it as close to where it belongs..By this I mean, install the only original bench mounting hole being used, the rear outboard one. Square up the seat making sure that both sliders are in the same position,all the way up or back, then scirbe and somehow attach the brackets with sheetmetal screws..... remove seats from brackets,.Then get them welded if possible or attach with nuts and bolts. All of this is under the carpet,right?. then replace the carpet,which was already installed just pulled back, poke the studs through the carpet or just lay the carpet back making those T cuts... Finally,install the seats an the brackets.. Is this the way to go? .

Personally I measure the sliders and then install the brackets, but it could be done your way. Then follow your blueprint WITHOUT nuts and bolts. They will pull through in the event of a serious accident. Don't take a chance with your life. Good luck.

Alright boys this is how I've done them in the past...take carpet out...do one seat at a time...take bucket seat with tracks attached and equal...place seat in car...run bolts in the holes that are there on outboard sides...take a piece of chalk and mark your bolt holes next inboard side...remove seat...drill holes...put car up on jack stands so you can get underneath it...bolt seat back in...put heavy duty bolts through tracks and new holes...get under car with 1 1/2" or even better 2" stainless steel washer and locknut...get a helper to help you tighten em up...you are then good to go...safe as can be...no welding involved...

You really don't want anyone welding on your floorboards unless they really know what the heck they are doing cause to much heat for to long warps the metal and weakens it...