I`m getting our 71 Chevelle ready and I want it to "Hook N`Book" right off, straight from the get go...

I don`t want to experiment, that`s a waste of time and money as we all know.

Street car, full interior, ps, pb with A/C... The motor and trans from BigRed (see sig) is going into it.

I don`t need/want an elaborate Alf`s type setup but I do want it to hook well when I do race it.

In order of preferance or cost effectiveness I need you seasoned vets, and I KNOW WHO YOU ARE !!! to tell me what my first/best changes should be.

I`ve searched the forum and I`ve seen a few that might have done things a little differently considering new products currently available.

Probably one of the most effective and street friendly systems comes from www.dickmillerracing.com

Dick Miller sells a small well written book expressly about hooking up "A" body cars, very worthy of shelf space in your car library. http://www.dickmillerracing.com/cgi-local/SoftCart.100.exe/online-store/scstore/p-DMR-9003.html?L+scstore+lqhv1991ff664266+1179185098

Thomas

Steve, I guess it depends on how much/little you want to spend. I would go for a double adjustable upper (for convinience), boxed lower, triangulation braces, and a anti roll bar for the basic setup. Aside from that basic platform, shocks will make or break you. I use the SSM lowers, E-brock DA uppers, HRP anti-roll bar, Hotchkiss braces and have had good luck with this setup. The only times I've had trouble hooking is when the track surface temp gets down around 50°. HTH.

Oh yeah, I've only used "poly" bushings, but some folks claim better performance from the Del-Alum bushings. May be something to consider.

Jon just wondering what tires you have played with. What worked for ya and what didnt. Seems to me that tires play a huge role in the whole 60'.

Jon just wondering what tires you have played with. What worked for ya and what didnt. Seems to me that tires play a huge role in the whole 60'.

I've used the Hoosier 29x10.5w bias slick, the Hoosier 30x10 radial slick, and the MT ET street radial. I could never tell any difference in performance between the bias slicks and MT radials the times that I switched them at the track. The Hoosier radials do appear to be faster than the bias slicks, but I haven't back to backed them enough to give you a solid number. The one time I did switch them, the car slowed .04 at the 1/8th with the bias slicks.

SSM lowers, METCO double adj up top, QA1 single adj shocks in the rear, HR bolt-on antiroll bar, stock rear springs, KONI street adjustables up front set on full soft, MOOG 5392's up front with one full coil removed.

NOICE!!! I'm gonna save this page for future reference!!! :thumbsup: :D

Global West gives you the best of both worlds, a suspension you can tune for drag racing or street diving. You can drive to the drag strip in comfort, jack the car up, swap out the TA's for ET's, adjust the shocks without removing them I might add an get some serious traction.
My 67 Elcamino sticks to the corners like velcro with street tires and turns low 12's at the drag strip. The only differance between the two are the tires and shock adjustments :thumbsup:

Globle West (http://www.globalwest.net/1964-72%20A-BODIES.htm) has come a long way since I installed mine in 2000. I've entertained the thought of changing over to the new control arms and QA-1 shocks :cool:

I had boxered lowers, and uppers. Solid iron bushings with grease.

I didnt like the QA1, newer worked like adj koni SPA1. So i boght dual adj koni SPA1. Works really good.

Street/track it hooks.

It`s my understanding that SSM is out of business, so would boxing the stock lowers be basically be the same thing ?

Godsend boxed the uppers too I see, but they`re subjected to pulling as opposed to pushing right ? Just wondering if it`s still a good idea never the less.

I take it air bags are passe ?

So...
*Boxed lowers or aftermarket ones
*Poly bushings or possibly Del-Alums
*Rear swaybar
*An adjustable front shock with maybe a coil out
*Adjustable uppers in rear

Thank you gentlemen.

Not just a rear swaybar, a HRpartsnstuff.com antiroll bar ;) it works better than air bags.

The SSM equivalent I believe is now built by Lakewood:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=LAK%2D21312&N=700+115&autoview=sku

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product2_10001_10002_761367_-1

HR bars are extremely expensive and it's my understanding they don't work any better than an anti-roll bar, fwiw.

http://www.dickmillerracing.com/cgi-local/SoftCart.100.exe/online-store/scstore/p-DMR-5413.html?L+scstore+lqhv1991ff664266+1179648463

Not just a rear swaybar, a HRpartsnstuff.com antiroll bar ;) it works better than air bags.

:yes:

HR bars are extremely expensive and it's my understanding they don't work any better than an anti-roll bar, fwiw.

http://www.dickmillerracing.com/cgi-local/SoftCart.100.exe/online-store/scstore/p-DMR-5413.html?L+scstore+lqhv1991ff664266+1179648463

The advantage is you can unbolt it and take it with you:yes:

Steve (BigRed L-72)
I sent you a pm regarding some parts you may be interested in. SSM bars and Hotchkiss triagulation braces.
Nick

I was planning on welding in a TRZ or Wolfe Racecraft Anti-roll bar because they are considerably less expensive and I have a TIG welder and know how to use it :D

After taking some measurements and talking to Wolfe Racecraft, on a '70-'72 you have to weld the bar to the spring perches or else to the cage like Dick Miller does. There is very little room between the spring and the rear crossmember of the car. I didn't like either option, so I ended up buying the HR Parts bar.

There is more room in front of the springs and the crossmember on the earlier model Chevelles and late Malibus that allow you to weld the bar to the frame.

Just FYI.

The advantage is you can unbolt it and take it with you:yes:

Um, why would you want to unbolt it and take it with you? I prefer mine under the car. As far as his combo he mentioned street car, so I would assume he has full exhaust over the rear, in which case, yes, the HR bar would have clearance advantage. If he has a shorty exhaust like mine, then I threw out the fact that the HR bar is over-priced, and there are alternatives that would perform just as well. Clear enough? :yes:

Here's a couple more excellent ARB manufacturers...

http://www.trzmotorsports.com/
http://wolferacecraft.com/

All come highly recommended.

If the car was wrecked it could be removed and put in another car as an example, or if you wanted to put the car back on the street, easier to unbolt and remove vs. cut off brackets and grind. :confused:

It`s my understanding that SSM is out of business, so would boxing the stock lowers be basically be the same thing ?

Godsend boxed the uppers too I see, but they`re subjected to pulling as opposed to pushing right ? Just wondering if it`s still a good idea never the less.

I take it air bags are passe ?

So...
*Boxed lowers or aftermarket ones
*Poly bushings or possibly Del-Alums
*Rear swaybar
*An adjustable front shock with maybe a coil out
*Adjustable uppers in rear

Thank you gentlemen.

Del-a-lums in the front would be great as well!!!

:yes:

:yes: X 3
with 295/65's cornering is a snap with hrpartsnstuff anti-roll in a Chevelle.....no rubbing...due to no latteral movement....and launch straight.:cool:

...or if you wanted to put the car back on the street, easier to unbolt and remove vs. cut off brackets and grind. :confused:

Bob, are you saying that setup isn`t really streetable ?

SS_SEAN...thanks for the heads up

Chris......295/65/15`s and NO rubbing !!??

No I'm not saying it isnt streetable at all. I could set it at neutral preload and never have to put the front sway bar back on, or I could pull it off and sell it for 1/2 price after I get my 20 years worth out of it :D

Well, I guess I'll be the first to say, I like the bolt-in deal because I suck as a welder, but still like to do as much as possible by myself. :D

I got a weld in anti-roll bar from ebay for $150. For a buck fitty, you cant go wrong w/ it IMO...

Launches nice and even:
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/711000-711999/711771_27_full.jpg

My chassis guy quoted me two hours of install time, and that depends on where you are in the country and how much they charge per hour for 'shop' time. My guy, in Oregon, is on the high side for install prices, for what it would cost to weld an anti-roll bar in. I'm talking California high. Don't know why, but the west coast is expensive. Check your local chassis/fab shop to find out their hourly rate, and what their total estimate for install would be. The three ARB manufacturers listed previously charge from $300-$360 for the ARB setup, and there are very few differences between them. One has alum bushings and two have brass. The HR bar is $489, and I've noticed his price came down since the last time I looked. That's a good thing. Bolt in is easy, definitely, but you're going to pay. I'm just pointing out the cost-benefit's here (which unfortunately some are not). Hope that helps. :)

So you are saying you can buy a weld-in for 300, pay 150 to have it welded in and thats a deal? benefit? I paid 469.00 for mine one year ago. Even at 100.00 difference I'd go bolt-in.

I'm installing mine today...myself. I'll pay myself $150 though, and go buy some more parts. :D

:D No matter what you do, you'll wish you did the other :D

Go the Global West rear bars with the double adjustable upper control arms and the Del-A-Lum bushings--The Bushings are realy more like a bearing and they are greasable--use Moog rubber bushings in the rear of the lower control arm where they attach to the rear end. the reason to use the rubber bushings at that point instead of the poly bushings is so there will not be any bind. Use the Global West rear frame braces as well. use the Global West 1" lowered springs front and rear and put air bags inside the rear springs. On the front end use the Global West Del-A-Lum bushings for the upper and lower A-Arms and the Global West upper A-Arm offset shafts. For your shocks use single adjustable rear shocks so you can adjust them so your ass will squat down when you nail it and use double adjustable front shocks so you can adjust them for the stiffness if the up motion--When you nail it you want your front to come up and your ass to go down so you are transfering your weight from front to back. You can add some air to the air bags if you need to for launching. The reason to use this setup is, it will be good for hookup but not at the expense of your ride and control on the street. On the street it will ride better than stock and for control, it will corner like a slot car. Also just use the standard GM large size sway bars--No larger than standard size. You will have a true no bind front and rear suspension. One other thing to keep in mind is that Hotchkis does not use standard size bushings in there rear link bars--Your stuck with using poly bushings with theirs only, no choices--you will get noise and stiff on the street and alot of binding up--stiff doesn't mean performance suspension it means no suspension and feel every little turd bump in the road and cornering not much better.

Go the Global West rear bars with the double adjustable upper control arms and the Del-A-Lum bushings--The Bushings are realy more like a bearing and they are greasable--use Moog rubber bushings in the rear of the lower control arm where they attach to the rear end. the reason to use the rubber bushings at that point instead of the poly bushings is so there will not be any bind. Use the Global West rear frame braces as well. use the Global West 1" lowered springs front and rear and put air bags inside the rear springs. On the front end use the Global West Del-A-Lum bushings for the upper and lower A-Arms and the Global West upper A-Arm offset shafts. For your shocks use single adjustable rear shocks so you can adjust them so your ass will squat down when you nail it and use double adjustable front shocks so you can adjust them for the stiffness if the up motion--When you nail it you want your front to come up and your ass to go down so you are transfering your weight from front to back. You can add some air to the air bags if you need to for launching. The reason to use this setup is, it will be good for hookup but not at the expense of your ride and control on the street. On the street it will ride better than stock and for control, it will corner like a slot car. Also just use the standard GM large size sway bars--No larger than standard size. You will have a true no bind front and rear suspension. One other thing to keep in mind is that Hotchkis does not use standard size bushings in there rear link bars--Your stuck with using poly bushings with theirs only, no choices--you will get noise and stiff on the street and alot of binding up--stiff doesn't mean performance suspension it means no suspension and feel every little turd bump in the road and cornering not much better.

Good advice except for the squat thing. It's been proven over and over you do not want these cars to squat in the rear. They have to plant the tires hard, and you can't do that if it squats. JMHO.

Great information guys...
OK here`s where it stands, Nick (70SS540) made me an offer that looks like a good starting point.
SSM uppers and lowers and Hotchkis braces.

Knowing that John Wilson and Bob West use the SSM lowers along with the braces, I figure I can at least have a good entry level setup.


I`ll continue to gather up other parts that have been suggested like good shocks, anti-roll bar, better bushing etc...

Guy`s...thank you all for helping and taking the time to do so :thumbsup: