I just finished putting all new coil spring front and rear and bushings on my 1969 350 Auto Chevelle . I hate the way the car sits on the front end its way to high which is setting the back down to low . I'm thinking about pulling the coils on the front end and cutting off one rung of the coil to lower it one inch . Would this do the trick ? I'm not sure if the front suspension will settle in time has anyone had this problem with new springs and what options do I have to get the front end down . It looks to have about 3 inchs from the top of the tires to the fender lip . Thanks Stevo

When I got my 69 it rode like truck. Too stiff. So I got new 6 cylinder springs from Moog. Nice ride, not too soft and the front is still up 2-3 inches over front tire after 2 years. And this is with a big block.

Cutting coils is very time consuming and an inaccurate way of lowering. First, cutting a full coil may drop more than 1 inch. I would suggest cutting less than 1/2 coil and setting back up to check ride height. Then cut more if needed. It's a lot of trouble, but the best way.
Several more notes: the less coils in the spring, the stiffer the ride. Best tool to cut coils, a power cut-off wheel, worst tool - torch. The heat changes the coil spring alot. And most of all, jack stands is a must and a chain to tie down the spring for removal. It has a lot of energy that can do a lot of damage to the garage and human body parts.
The best way to drop is dropped spindles. There is a bunch available thru the popular Chevelle and suspension outlets.

Did you torque the suspension bolts down while the car was on the ground, or while it was jacked up with the arms in droop? Rubber bushings especially need to have the entire weight of the car resting on the wheels when you torque the bolts to prevent a bushing preload from holding it up higher.

Several more notes: the less coils in the spring, the stiffer the ride.Cutting off one coil will make the spring about 8% stiffer... so your ~325# spring will become ~350#. The wheel rate will go from ~81# to ~87. That's nothing. I run 700# in my '69 and 575# in my wife's 66 wagon. I know several others run 950#, nearly 3x the rate of stock springs, on street-cars with handling in mind.

Best tool to cut coils, a power cut-off wheel, worst tool - torch. The heat changes the coil spring alot.This is a very common misconception... cutting with a torch hurts nothing. It changes the temper on the last couple inches of a dead coil resting on the control arm. Since it is not an active coil, the temper of the end of it does not matter.

The best way to drop is dropped spindles. There is a bunch available thru the popular Chevelle and suspension outlets.For all practical purposes, stock spindles with a spring-drop is far better than *most* drop spindles. There are several kinds of drop spindles... some use G-body brakes, those are junk. some keep the geometry and brakes "stock"... stock geometry is nothing short of horrible. others correct the bass-ackwards camber curve (Heidts and Fatman) and are literally the only ones worth using, although Heidts keeps the stock steer-arm location for stock (mediocre) bumpsteer numbers, and Fatman lowered the steer arm mounts so bumpsteer is MUCH WORSE than stock.

all i can say is...i took advice, cut one coil off the fronts.....i am very pleased.....practically get wood just walking into the garage now !!! :yes:

My apologies to Derek. Thank you on your expertise.
My advice to Carnuts does not need disparaging remarks. You can add your advice, but don't comment on someone's else help unless it is very detrimental or dangerous.
I guess we can't build Chevelles in Hawaii like you do.

My advice to Carnuts does not need disparaging remarks. You can add your advice, but don't comment on someone's else help unless it is very detrimental or dangerous.I'm sorry, I thought this was a technical forum, my mistake. :clonk:

I guess wrong info is OK as long as it's not dangerous. :noway: