I have some surface rust on my floor pans, frame rails, and trunk. Has anyone used this stuff? Is it what it is cracked up to be?

I use this alot in my shop after plastic beading or sandblasting for the inside of the door seams or before welding a patch that was not cleaned up or blasted enough.You follow the instructions and the POR-15 is a great product.

I'd use Eastwood's RE, seems more forgiving then POR, and alot better.

-Todd

I too use Eastwood's RE not sure if it's as good, but I like working with it much better. (No isocyanates) A friend of mine swears by "Rust Bullet".

I really like por 15. I've used on floors and i have done the por 15 silver on 2 roofs. One was a former vinyl top that was rusted bad and the other was a roof that had been left in primer for years and rusted deep. It really is easy to work with. Just follow their directions closely.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=852&itemType=CATEGORY&iMainCat=688&iSubCat=852

'Nuff said. POR will never touch my car...

-Todd

I am doing a total ground up resto on a 65 Malibu SS. I used Por 15 on the frame and underside. It is a great product. I also sealed the fuel tank. You will not be disappointed
RED574

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=852&itemType=CATEGORY&iMainCat=688&iSubCat=852

'Nuff said. POR will never touch my car...

-Todd

Sounds convincing to me as well, just afraid the guy who did the article was doing it as a favor to somone he knew at Eastwood. I know, I'm being a bit cynical.

I have done two car frame and just love the easyness it is and the results were great for me. Just follow the directions.

i will never use por 15 again, used it on my frame, cleaned frame, wire wheeled it and also acid cleaned, primed with por 15 primer and two coats of por 15. constantly scraping and repainting areas of frame, i have had better luck with rustoluem on frames that i didnt even clean, i was very dissapointed in this product after reading all the articles which prompted me to purchase it. in the beggining the frame looked excellent and color was very good for a semi gloss repro, after two years the scraping and cleaning for touch up repairs began.

i will never use por 15 again, used it on my frame, cleaned frame, wire wheeled it and also acid cleaned, primed with por 15 primer and two coats of por 15. constantly scraping and repainting areas of frame, i have had better luck with rustoluem on frames that i didnt even clean, i was very dissapointed in this product after reading all the articles which prompted me to purchase it. in the beggining the frame looked excellent and color was very good for a semi gloss repro, after two years the scraping and cleaning for touch up repairs began.

I've used Eastwood and POR 15..........I got MasterSeries, let me know.

Malibu 356...

Sounds like you had too clean/dry a surface to work with. Seriously, POR15 is activated by water, which activates the chemical adhesion properties. In other words, to have it effectively applied and stay applied, take off only the dirt and rust that can come off with a relatively light scraping. Rusted metal itself holds condensation, and too dry a surface will not activate the adhesion properties. Even with etching, you could have still been to dry (it is chemically adhesive here, not only physically).

I have used POR15 on 4 frames so far, and you could hit it with a sledgehammer 4 years later and not leave a mark, it is very tough. HOWEVER, do not let direct sunlight get at it for very long, as the ultraviolet rays will break down the adhesion properties, and you will get flaking, etc.

All this being said, I am going to look more closely at the Eastwood product, because I don't want to risk working with isocanytates (sp?) which are cancer causing, 'your gonna die sooner' stuff. Think about it, if it is designed to work with water, what about when the fumes hit your lungs!!!!!!

Just 2cents...

i will never use por 15 again, used it on my frame, cleaned frame, wire wheeled it and also acid cleaned, primed with por 15 primer and two coats of por 15. constantly scraping and repainting areas of frame, i have had better luck with rustoluem on frames that i didnt even clean, i was very dissapointed in this product after reading all the articles which prompted me to purchase it. in the beggining the frame looked excellent and color was very good for a semi gloss repro, after two years the scraping and cleaning for touch up repairs began.

Malibu356 - It's not sticking to your frame because you applied it wrong. The POR should have been applied directly to the scuffed bare metal. Thier primer is for going OVER the por-15. That being said, a wire wheel finish is really too slick for the POR to grab onto. It sticks best to media blasted metal or Rust. I have POR-15 freshly media blasted metal (brushed on) and the POR is virtually bullet proof. It does not come off easily no matter what I use.

Malibu 356...

Sounds like you had too clean/dry a surface to work with. Seriously, POR15 is activated by water, which activates the chemical adhesion properties. In other words, to have it effectively applied and stay applied, take off only the dirt and rust that can come off with a relatively light scraping. Rusted metal itself holds condensation, and too dry a surface will not activate the adhesion properties. Even with etching, you could have still been to dry (it is chemically adhesive here, not only physically).

I have used POR15 on 4 frames so far, and you could hit it with a sledgehammer 4 years later and not leave a mark, it is very tough. HOWEVER, do not let direct sunlight get at it for very long, as the ultraviolet rays will break down the adhesion properties, and you will get flaking, etc.

All this being said, I am going to look more closely at the Eastwood product, because I don't want to risk working with isocanytates (sp?) which are cancer causing, 'your gonna die sooner' stuff. Think about it, if it is designed to work with water, what about when the fumes hit your lungs!!!!!!

Just 2cents...

If you use a paint brush in a well ventalated area it's really no more unsafe then breathing SoCal smog!

I used it on my floors on the inside. Very pleased.
The article posted earlier states right in it that he didn't prep it well enough, and that the ring was caused by putting something else on it. Also, POR-15 is more of a rust transformer and encapsulator. As for rust-creep, it believe it wasn't properly bonded to the metal due to too smooth of a surface and improper curing. POR-15 prefers a warm humid cure.

Here's another review from www.ChevyThunder.net
http://www.chevythunder.net/showthread.php?t=1005

Both the eastwood and the POR15 CAN be sprayed on right ? No need to brush it on correct ?

Both the eastwood and the POR15 CAN be sprayed on right ? No need to brush it on correct ?

Eastwood is available in rattle cans, not sure about POR but I don't think it is. Isocyanates if you spray POR is a concern as they are not stopped by a respirator. I've used both and will stay with Eastwood.:thumbsup:

Eastwood is available in rattle cans, not sure about POR but I don't think it is. Isocyanates if you spray POR is a concern as they are not stopped by a respirator. I've used both and will stay with Eastwood.:thumbsup:


I wasnt refering ot rattle cans, I was talking about a paint gun.

Some folks said you have to lay iot on with a brush.

POR15 SPRAY APPLICATION Use 30-35 lbs (206-250 kpa) pressure for normal
gloss. Reduce pressure for lower gloss 20-25 lbs (140-170 kpa). Thin
only with POR-15 Solvent, if necessary. If topcoat to be done at later
date, apply very light dust coat of primer over tacky POR-15 and let dry.
Full priming and fi nishing can then be done later. Use POR-15 Solvent
or lacquer thinner for cleanup, which must be done before POR-15 dries;
once dry, POR-15 cannot be removed by solvent. Avoid skin contact.
Remove from skin at once to avoid temporary staining.
USE OF GLOVES AND VENTILATING EQUIPMENT IS STRONGLY
RECOMMENDED.
POR15 is a three step process. 1. marine clean, QUART - $10.50 2. METAL-READY, QUART - $15.75 3. POR-15, QUART - $38.75
POR-15 Solvent, QUART - $10.50


Eastwood Rust Encapsulator has been tested by an independent lab to be the most effective rust preventive product yet. Tested against well-known brands, the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator has proven to be superior in sunlight resistance, preventing rust creep, and overall durability. One quart covers about 50 sq. ft. with a double coat. Can be thinned up to 20% with lacquer thinner for spraying. Contains no isocyanates. Heat resistant up to 400º F. Made in the USA.
Encapsulates rust & primes in one step, Minimal prep - remove loose rust, degrease, & apply, Can be used under or over body fillers
Quart, $29.99

POR15 is a three step process. 1. marine clean, QUART - $10.50 2. METAL-READY, QUART - $15.75 3. POR-15, QUART - $38.75
POR-15 Solvent, QUART - $10.50



Encapsulates rust & primes in one step, Minimal prep - remove loose rust, degrease, & apply, Can be used under or over body fillers
Quart, $29.99



Can you apply it directly to sandblasted metal ?

Once cleaned, you use the POR-15 metal prep, which leaves a coating that the POR-15 reacts with. I think some of the problems people have is they aren't using this (not everyone, just some). The POR-15 needs it for the chemical reaction and bonding (kinda like a metal etch primer). Also, the more humid it is, the better it's supposed to cure.