Hey all,

I've been getting a lot of conflicting advice regarding priming cars from paint stores. I'm helping my dad with his car, and 1/2 of it is in bare metal, with bodywork almost ready to be covered with primer. Heres the deal- we want to paint it like a street rod- IE. a colored primer, until we are ready to paint it.

Heres the state of it-

Hood- Paint Ok, just needs a primer or ? over the old scuffed paint. Can I use a urethane primer over the old paint (after thourough scuffing)- THEN seal it when I am ready to paint it? Ive been told no- why not!?!?

Doors, Trunk Lid (top), Front Fenders- Stripped completely w/ filler and polyester filling putty body work.

Door jambs- PARTIALLY stripped; (ie. some metal, some paint, mostly metal), some splotches of good, old paint ready to paint over. Can I use a urethane primer to do this or is my first guess, EPoxy or Etching primer, more to the liking. We have been told NEITHER urethane primer/surfacer or Etching, EPoxy Primer wont work in such circumstances. WTF?! Why NOT! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

The game plan is:

Step 1. An etching primer OR Epoxy Primer over the bare metal areas. PRobably a Sherwin Williams or Martin Senour product. Are we on the right track? WHich would be better on the whole?

Step 2. Urethane Primer/Surfacer (which can be colored- hence the "Street ROd" look) as a second layer of primer to cover the etching primer, and TO ALLOW FOR BLOCK SANDING A STRAIGHT PANEL (one rep said I cold skip this step- HUH?!)

3. Eventually Re-scuff the primer/surfacer that covers the car, seal it with sealer, then paint it.

Bottom line is we want two birds with one stone-

A. Prime and protect the Metal w/ Ep. or Etch primer, and COVER that and the body work with Urethane primer surfacer.

B. Have a cool looking primer paint job

I know this can be done- I've seen many street rods around here in PInk, Beige, Black, Purple, YEllow PRIMER.

However, all these paint shops give different stories. I have a feeling there just trying to saddle me and my father with products and expenses we don't need YET.

Any help would certainly be appreciated!!!!!!!!!!

If you want to drive it in prime i would use an epoxy primer.Then when your ready to paint it you can prime with either a 2k urethane prime,or a polyester prime,block it,seal it and paint it.

You are on the right track. Just use the M-S Trio/PRIME part number 8847 over the bare metal and plastic filler if you like. Then use M-S Tint/PRIME part # 5103 in one of the 28 colors and you are done. I would if I were you, apply the Tint/PRIME, block the car, then apply the Tint/PRIME again. The car will look sweet and it will be ready to scuff and paint when you want to.
The Tint/PRIME is insoluable and even has UV Protection! So it is fine to leave uncovered.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

Thanks for the advice guys-

and MartinSR- thanks for the triple reply http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gifI figured the more the merrier! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

I'll get down to NAPA and talk again to the guy who thought that I WASNT on the right track. Hopefully, he'll sell me what I want without too much more "advice"- ie. "It'll fall off after 6 mos if you do that".

Thats why I wanted your and others advice- I put much more weight in to the advice here, simply because there isn't anything being sold. I got the part numbers from the post, and will use what you say, as I have decided to go with the Martin Senour paint line.

Just as an aside, I was thinking of using the Econobody etching primer with that tintable primer, instead of the tec etch. I'll look at the data sheet, as they are all on the MS website, and see if it says anything of comaptiblity-

Thanks Again!

I have news for you. The Econo-Body etch (number 15210) is EXACTLY the same stuff that is in the can of 8847 for half as much money. Check out the MSDS sheets on the M-S web site, they are the EXACT same product!


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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by MARTINSR:
I have news for you. The Econo-Body etch (number 15210) is EXACTLY the same stuff that is in the can of 8847 for half as much money. Check out the MSDS sheets on the M-S web site, they are the EXACT same product!


<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Good Deal!

I looked at both PDS's and they sound pretty much the same...The trio/prime has a little bit more information, but one would expect that from "higher end" product. Their purpose is the same, though= bare metal etching primer, AND they are from the same manufacturer..

The 15210 and the TintPrime is what I'll use then. Hey- Nothing wrong with doing some research and saving some money! Thanks again, Martinsr- you are a GREAT help!

I, too, am thinking of leaving my car in primer. Mostly because funds and time preclude the needed bodywork and paint now, but I want to keep it from rusting further.

I'm not familiar with the M-S TintPrime. Is it basically an epoxy primer? How does it compare with PPG's DPLF (90)? Which would hold up better exposed to the elements without topcoat?

Many thanks,
mark.
'71 Malibu (4-door)

hd99fxst,

The tintprime is NOT an Epoxy or Etching primer, which is a bare metal primer. It is a Urethane primer surfacer, which allows the car to be block sanded to straighten out the dents.

OF course MartinSR is teh paint guru, but I recall from one of his other posts somewhere on a another board, that IF YOU APPLY THE TINTPRIME CORRECTLY, it is water insoluble, as well as UV resistant- very important for those of us looking to use the primer as an interim change of color. As for the comparison with PPG, maybe someone else can fill you in.

BUT for the "Street ROd" primer look, it seems as if the MS tint prime is the way to go- and as stated earlier by MartinSR--- IT COMES IN 28 DIFFERENT COLORS!! If you dont care about the colors, MS also has an econobody primer/surfacer- not sure if its as durable though.

"Correctly" is simply with the etch prime under it and the proper mil build with the Tint/PRIME and don't sand it.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

MartinSR and JU87,
When you write "Urethane", I read "Isocyanates". Is that right? Will I need fresh air supply with an etch primer, or M-S TintPrime? I would be doing this at home (well, in the garage, not the living room...) and do not have a fresh air setup. Are they very expensive, or is it possible to rent them?

My understanding is I only need a regular respirator (relatively cheap) to spray an epoxy primer. Right?

Many, many thanks,
mark.

Mark,

You really have to take a look at the PDS and MSDS on teh Martin Senour (or PPG?) paint sites. It spells it all out, safety, mixing and everything- Just make sure you have acrobat reader. I am planning on using a North half faced mask with the !!appropriate!! canister filters for isocyantic paints. BUT I will be shooting mine in a paint booth, so neighbors, pets, etc. is not on my worry list. I believe that the DP90 is also a primer that contains isocyanates- so either way you'll need AT LEAST a half mask (NOrth is a pretty nice brand, PLUS you can buy the pancake filters for machine sanding- they are so much btter than those paper masks its not even funnY!)to spray it too. Maybe someone else will chime in. Just remember that it is a much different situation for a hobbyist than a pro who is exposed to this stuff 8 hrs a day!