When out and bought a set of Mickey drag radials today. I got the 255 60 size. My car is a 4 speed with 4:10 gears. Motor is a zz4 with a cam and head upgrade with a 670 street advenger.

I don't have a scattershild yet and I have 1310 driveshaft with a crossover u joint on the rear. So, I do not have the guts to blast at it yet.

BUT , I did do a clutch dump of 2500 and the car just stuck and bogged. This was with the tires pumped up to 33 lbs.

I would have to say I was very impressed with them!

Now, I just need to upgrade the rest.

Of course, I don't race much, maybe a couple of times a year. Just wanted to see what they are like.

Very impressive!

i have a very similar setup. 4 speed with 4.10s and a 454. what is a 1310 driveshaft and a crossover u joint? i have neither and nor a scattershield. i'm afraid i'm gonna break something. so far i'm going 12.6s and i've been launching at around 3500 rpm. it's a full weight car as well. what kind of et's are you getting? i'm just curious because you're talking about all of those heavy duty parts that i don't have. BTW I have those same tires you just bought on my t-type. work well.

Just as an indication of how they work, so far I have best 60ft of 1.489 at 18ls of air pressure on a 275 leaving at 2500.

You will love the tires, and they work great going down the freeway!

Corey

Never been to the track with this combo.

1310 is the smallest u-joints out there. They go in 1310/1330/ and 1350. I'm running my original driveshaft. Car orginally had a 10 bolt rearend in it that used 1310 in front and rear of the driveshaft. I bought a Moser reared and it had a 1350 yoke on it. So in order to get going I bought a crossover u joint. It is 1310 on the driveshaft side and 1350 on the rearend yoke side.

Yes, I'm a little nervous that I'm going to break something also. I definately do not want to flywheel to come apart and rip through the floor board or break a driveshaft without a loop.

Your track allows you run without a scattershield?

Yeah, they drive just like a regular tire at highway speeds!

You will love them if you can make them hold with a 4 speed. They work great for me as long as I don't use the brake. I have been 1.54 with a short sidewall 275-50-15 in my TA but every time I have tried the brake I blow the tires off to a high 1.7x.

Your track allows you run without a scattershield?

yeah. they didn't even ask if i had one. the dude just made me take off my rally center caps. i should prob get a driveshaft loop too. scary stuff.

So you are leaving on idle? No preloading the chassis?

Wow. Never heard that before. I don't have the balls that I did when I was 18.

You will love them if you can make them hold with a 4 speed. They work great for me as long as I don't use the brake. I have been 1.54 with a short sidewall 275-50-15 in my TA but every time I have tried the brake I blow the tires off to a high 1.7x.

What RPM are you leaving at?? I am ordering a set tomorrow and kind of need to know. I will be using them with 550-600hp BB and Turbo 400 with brake.
Cheers
Bear

What RPM are you leaving at?? I am ordering a set tomorrow and kind of need to know. I will be using them with 550-600hp BB and Turbo 400 with brake.
Cheers
Bear
Around 4500 on the brake. A little wider taller tire they might be ok but the short ones won't hold so far.

Around 4500 on the brake. A little wider taller tire they might be ok but the short ones won't hold so far.

I am getting P295-65-15 (30x12.5x15) So I hope the hook :confused:

Do Not Drive A Stickshift Chevy Without A Scatterschield.
Do Not Drive A Stickshift Chevy Without A Scatterschield.
Do Not Drive A Stickshift Chevy Without A Scatterschield.
Do Not Drive A Stickshift Chevy Without A Scatterschield.
Do Not Drive A Stickshift Chevy Without A Scatterschield.
Do Not Drive A Stickshift Chevy Without A Scatterschield.
Do Not Drive A Stickshift Chevy Without A Scatterschield.
Do Not Drive A Stickshift Chevy Without A Scatterschield.
Do Not Drive A Stickshift Chevy Without A Scatterschield.
Do Not Drive A Stickshift Chevy Without A Scatterschield.
Do Not Drive A Stickshift Chevy Without A Scatterschield.
Do Not Drive A Stickshift Chevy Without A Scatterschield.
Do Not Drive A Stickshift Chevy Without A Scatterschield.
Do Not Drive A Stickshift Chevy Without A Scatterschield.
Do Not Drive A Stickshift Chevy Without A Scatterschield.

I have MT drag radials 275/60r15 on my 4spd camaro. I gained 3 tenths just by switching to them: 12.94 @ 110 on a lame 2.1 60'. Like you I have been walking it out of the hole, the one time I left the line at 5000 it unloaded bad through 1st and 2nd gear. here is the video(don't laugh at my missed gear):http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pIgzpRjcfSo

Do Not Drive A Stickshift Chevy Without A Scatterschield.
Do Not Drive A Stickshift Chevy Without A Scatterschield.
Do Not Drive A Stickshift Chevy Without A Scatterschield.
Do Not Drive A Stickshift Chevy Without A Scatterschield.
Do Not Drive A Stickshift Chevy Without A Scatterschield.
Do Not Drive A Stickshift Chevy Without A Scatterschield.
Do Not Drive A Stickshift Chevy Without A Scatterschield.
Do Not Drive A Stickshift Chevy Without A Scatterschield.
Do Not Drive A Stickshift Chevy Without A Scatterschield.
Do Not Drive A Stickshift Chevy Without A Scatterschield.
Do Not Drive A Stickshift Chevy Without A Scatterschield.
Do Not Drive A Stickshift Chevy Without A Scatterschield.
Do Not Drive A Stickshift Chevy Without A Scatterschield.
Do Not Drive A Stickshift Chevy Without A Scatterschield.
Do Not Drive A Stickshift Chevy Without A Scatterschield. Get a good billet steel flywheel "first", as that is the part that breaks first and will do tons of damage even with a scattershield and block plate. A cast iron flywheel is the most dangerous piece of metal in a standard transmission drivetrain. Those spindly 1310 "U" joints are second but don't generally do as much damage if they break. I have a friend who tried to run a cast flywheel in a high 11 second Chevelle and the exploding flywheel broke everything from the radiator to the rear end including the engine.

My Malibu has been 1.32 60' on a quite short 27.5" tall 325/50-15 M/T Et Street Radial. The car weighed 3450 lbs w/driver as was a footbrake launched 454 bbc.

When they hook their incredible, but when they spin, your done.

I have a Centerforce matching flywheel. Not sure if that is good enough?

I took these pics of a low 11 sec AMX 4spd at Cecil county dragway MD, the very next day I ordered my billet flywheel and scatter sheild!
Note the chunk of flywheel that came through the cowl!

http://www.camaros.net/showroom/data/531/amc1.jpg
http://www.camaros.net/showroom/data/531/amc2.jpg

i wouldn't run drag radials with a stick, but thats just me. you want a controlled amount of spin off the line so you don't bog, and once radials spin, your toast

Help me. I'm confused. Do you mean drag radial or street radial? I thought the drag radial was not for highway use. 67Turbo talks about freeway driving and I'm wondering now if I missed the boat with the street radials I just bought. Somebody straighten me out. Thanks.


Danny

i wouldn't run drag radials with a stick, but thats just me. you want a controlled amount of spin off the line so you don't bog, and once radials spin, your toast


All the ls1 guys say they dont work well with a stick, but awesome with an auto.

Drag radials nor radial slicks are not the best choice for manual shift cars. At lower HP ranges you can get away with it but, once you start leaving hard you will be better off with a bias ply tires. The sidewall help absorb the shock of the clutch dump. Go to the Mickey T site I think there is info there on this. For automatic cars the Mickey T Drag radials are great.

I am going to give them a try with the new motor this weekend but I expect to blow the tires off pretty bad because of the low end grunt. I'll check out the M/T site.