I have never used this,is it a good as they say for stopping rust?I have a large piece of equipment and the stamped steel oil pain is showing some serious rust.Do you just wire brush the surface rust off then brush the paint on?This has to be done without removing the pan,which is a major job.The pan is dry,not oily,just rusty.Also where do you get this at,auto parts store,hardware store?Thanks.

Here is one spot but if you use google and search you will find a lot of sellers. I usually pick it up at swapmeets and shows from vendor booths.

http://www.por15.com/

There are instructions on that website and on every bottle for the application process.

If you want TC reviews do a search on the stuff - tons out there. Some love it, some dont buy it, some prefer eastwoods rust encapsulator and some say just go with epoxy and a top coat, etc like any other spot on the car.

I have a sway bar and two B body spindles that were done YEARS ago. Spindles are in the garage but I actually threw the sway bar in the dirt and left it outside for the last few months just for kicks - no rust. And when I threw it, literally, it hit two pavers / stepping stones in the back yard - no chips.

I havent run any painted parts on the car yet but I am not afraid of using this stuff with confidence. Again - OPINIONS vary.

Cleaning is key before applying it. I have used POR15 on several projects and it works great. It has been a few years since I used it, and if I recall it has no UV resistance. So a top coat is required if you want it to look any better than charcoal.
The metal has to be prepared, and I think they will sell "metal ready" at the dealer you get the paint.

I should also note, DO NOT GET IT ON YOUR SKIN.

They say you don't need to wire brush it since it will convert it chemically. You should check out thier starter kits, They cost under $20, and you get cleaner, prep, paint, plus gloves and a brush. And yes, cleaning is #1. DON'T get it on your skin.

Appearence is not a factor,just want to stop the rust.

OK, here's my experience. If it gets in the sun, it will haze up. It worked great on a frame I had, but it flaked off of a 12 bolt rear I did. I won't use it again on a Chevelle most likely.

I have had very good luck with it. I did follow the instructions and used the metal ready first, untill it ran out. For small parts and brackets, I have used the cheap old pool acid for prep and those also have held up well.

Doug, This is where I purchased mine. He should be no more then 5 or 10 miles from you.

http://www.synlubes.com/

It is not UV resistant. Hazes over after exposure to sun light. I've used Eastwoods Rust Inhibtor with GRET results. Also RUST BULLET (do a Google search). Both gave me excellent results and can be top coated with anything. I used RUST BULLET on the rear housing. 2 coats and it's totally protected. PPOR is great stuff but you should top coat it if the area is exposed to light. It's great on frames etc. It can be top coated with a spray bomb if you do it while it's still tacky.

Doug, This is where I purchased mine. He should be no more then 5 or 10 miles from you.

http://www.synlubes.com/

Geez,thats right down the road a piece,didn't know he was there.Thanks Dave.

It is not UV resistant. Hazes over after exposure to sun light. .


Man, let me tell you - I learned that the hard way!

I read the instructions and documentation. ;)
:D

you guys are killing my business again......but here ya go anyway

http://www.masterseriesct.com/wst_page6.html

I read the instructions and documentation. ;)


Wimp. ;)

Oh, a quart can that is full will make a 2 foot diameter circle when tipped over......:(

I use non-latex gloves when I use it....or when I get some on my figers and THEN remember the gloves. :(

If thE pan is oily, do a reALLY GOOD JOB DEGREASING IT.

Can I degrease my engine block and paint over the old chevy orange with the POR Chevy Orange paint? Will it adhere to the block paint?

Thanks
Tod

POR 15 is a great product as I have used it many times as per the instructions provide by them, and I have come to the conclusion that I probably will die of old age before the POR 15 has rust through.


My rule of thumb when considering POR 15:

If your in your 20's follow instructions to the "T"

30's don't worry about the metal prep

40's forget knocking off the rust flakes

50's just use Krylon from Wal-Mart and save your money :beers:

I used it on several suspension parts and a the frame of my 66SS and its held up great since 1998. I also used the top coat. I personally like the glossy surface. Looks quite nice actually.

When POR is used over paint, adhesion/protection is only as good as the paint below it.

If it's not bare metal, I don't use it.
:cool:

POR 15 is a great product as I have used it many times as per the instructions provide by them, and I have come to the conclusion that I probably will die of old age before the POR 15 has rust through.


My rule of thumb when considering POR 15:

If your in your 20's follow instructions to the "T"

30's don't worry about the metal prep

40's forget knocking off the rust flakes

50's just use Krylon from Wal-Mart and save your money :beers:

Les! Do we dare to ask which catagory you fall into?:D
I personally like RustoLeum paints.:thumbsup:

Can I degrease my engine block and paint over the old chevy orange with the POR Chevy Orange paint? Will it adhere to the block paint?

Thanks
Tod

Use a chemical paint stripper that hoses off. Then use Eastwoods Marine Clean (only buy a quart, it makes a couple of gallons) then Metal prep. Don't wash off the Metal Prep, let it dry on there as the directions say. You won't be able to keep the POR engine paint from sticking. POR engine paint is just a high solids high temp enamel. It likes an acid surface.

Master Series.......

Say BB I called the number and got a recording any body know about how to get that stuff shipped to Hawaii?

Ok, I have used it twice on frames. 46 ford and 68 chevelle. I followed the directions. Do not use on sunlight items or heat. It has been 15 years and have no problems with it ever. DO NOT GET ON HANDS. If you do Change . Hands for it will be a while before it comes off. I just brushed off the loose rust and Dirt. Do not use on wet or oily items . As the instructions said. I love the item and One can apply with spray or brush. Both results are the same. Smooth and slick. DO NOT GET ON HANDS.

I just did the frame of my 69 with POR 15 semi gloss black, it looks incredible. I did have problems with the gloss black and air bubbles. I just sanded it down and coated it again and all was fine.

I can't say whats going to happen once I get the car back together and start driving it, but I can vouch for the fact that you can beat the hell out of it and not chip it:)

I tried to cheat and not use the metal prep, and if I look closely I can see some small fisheyes in it. I would recommend following the directions, I have to get really, really close to see it, so it won't bother me too much, but if I were to do it again I would follow the directions this time.

Jeff

It is OK. The idea is following their instructions to the letter. I did and it worked good. Don't get it on your skin and clean up any drops quickly.

Say BB I called the number and got a recording any body know about how to get that stuff shipped to Hawaii?
Sorry I was in Jacksonville Today....I'll call you back!!!!