I looked at this 1972 Chevelle's roof I am possibly getting.. The roof has a crease 6 inches from the rear window. If I pop the dent out what is the best way to get rid of the crease?


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1969 Chevelle Malibu
307 Powerglide 10 bolt
2nd owner
All original with 2 inches of documentation.

It's amazing, after all this time she still runs.

AIM Screen Name = YenkoChevelle69. Gimme a yell anytime.

If http://www.chevelles.com/forum/Forum3/HTML/006676.html didn't help, then for sure its time for a shrinking/expanding hammer and some heat. If the crease is an "outie" then I would be inclined to run a friction disc over it and shrink it back that way.

Thomas

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"Bomber" '67 El Camino, Beater comes back to life.
Was 350/TH350 14.90 @ 93mph, 360,000+ miles on car.
Now 406 roller, 340rwhp, more hp coming, 3.08 gears.
Street radials, left in drive, 13.20 e.t.@108.35 mph.
8/1/01 added Plum Mist '67 to collection
ProCharger D-2R 468 under construction.

Yenco, go to the link Thomas provided and read my "Basics of Basics" on flat panels. Pay particular attention to the fact that you don't need to "pop the dent out". What you need to do is apply pressure up in the dented area close to the "crease" (which is actually a brow or crown because it is going up) and "TAP" the brow down.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

I did read it, just curious as how to get the crease to dissappear.

It is right there in the "Basics". The "crease" is NOT a crease. Look in the text for where I talk about tapping the "BROW" or "CROWN" down, THAT is how you fix your "crease". http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

Yenko, metal work is not hard if you understand the basics, and listened in high school science class. For every action there is a equal and oppsoite reaction. The "crease" is there because the metal in that area is pushed down and out-that is the action. The reaction would be the surrounding areas that are now pushed up(the brow or crown). When working with metal you need to work out the reaction before you can fix the action. If you just fix the low area(action), the high area(reaction) will still be there.

The high spots are under stress you need to relieve these areas of that stress in order to repair the strength of that panel.

The only fix is to do, is just like Martin explained, push up on the low area and tap down the high spots that WILL be surrounding it...Eric

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1970 chevelle
1970 chevelle SS455 not a typo its a buick baby
1949 and 1972 chevy trucks
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles

Hey that makes sense. Thanks for all the patience. Seems like it will be simple. So after I tap it back in just use a little filler and block sand it. Right?

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1969 Chevelle Malibu
307 Powerglide 10 bolt
2nd owner
All original with 2 inches of documentation.

It's amazing, after all this time she still runs.

AIM Screen Name = YenkoChevelle69. Gimme a yell anytime.

Yenko you got it right. Push up on the low spot little pressure is needed and very lightly tap down the high surrounding areas. Any repair is very hard and near impossible to do without filler work. So yes you are gonna need some "Bondo".

Spread the filler out past beyond the repaired area, dont just fill in the low area, spread it over the high spots and surrounding metal...Eric

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1970 chevelle
1970 chevelle SS455 not a typo its a buick baby
1949 and 1972 chevy trucks
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles

I just realized it is going to be a 2 person job. Oh well. Good learning experience. I was told to use "Duraglass" for filler. It's green. Anyone use this stuff?

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1969 Chevelle Malibu
307 Powerglide 10 bolt
2nd owner
All original with 2 inches of documentation.

It's amazing, after all this time she still runs.

AIM Screen Name = YenkoChevelle69. Gimme a yell anytime.

Yenco, the Duraglass is a good product but a poor choice for this particular repair. It fills like a mad man, but is also hard to sand. What you need is just the oposite. If you take your time on this repair, you will need very little filler. You may even be able to keep it to a polyester putty in the form of a skim coat.


"Regular" polyester body filler, and polyester "putty" is basically the same thing. They are both, you guessed it "Polyester" based. Polyester is what fiberglass is made of. The fillers have talc and some other componants that give it "body", that is the basic diffference between fiberglass resin and polyester body fillers.
The Putties have a finer ground talc than "regular" filler. They cost MUCH more, but are well worth it for skim coats and minor repairs. Being they are polyester they use a hardener and CURE like fiberglass.

The old "spot putties" DO NOT use a hardener and are simply lacquer primer . They are JUNK and should not be used.

Some examples of these products are as follows.

"Regular" polyester body fillers:

Evercoats RAGE or "Lite weight" and others.
3M's Lightweight body filler #058001

Polyester putties:

Evercoat's "Polyester glazing putty", "Easy sand" and others.
3M's "Flowable finishing putty"#05824 or "Piranha"#05821 .

"Spot putty" (junk, not recommended)

Evercoat's "Ever-glaze" #403
3M's "Acryl-green" red or blue #05960,05964,05966

I personally recommend Evercoat products.



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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"