well, i dont know what to say. i guess the pics say it all. lots of work ahead but im up for it Dave http://cardomain.com/id/sheetmetal2

How are you going to get all the new metal lined up,you have nothing to match it to..

im up for ideas, anybody got any, feel free to jump right in. my plan is a few sheetmetal screws here and there and check really good before i weld. i "KNOW" i can do this right. the car was rearended

Wow wish you luck graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Wow, do they make all the pieces repro to put it back? Or are you using some original metal? When you have that much taken off, I HIGHLY recommend that you put it all together with small sheetmetal screws (you only need a few per panel to hold it in place temporarily) BEFORE you weld anything.

I don't know where you could stop this trial fitting and assume the next part would fit. That is the hard part, I know as I would be putting this together I would know points that could be welded up before continuing, but without doing it I can't tell you. All I know is this, if you should weld just ONE thing off......
Let's say you were off an eigth inch, just an eigth inch (which is actually a mile in autobody) at the begining. You then weld all the other parts on, that eigth inch "growing" with each part. By the time you got to hanging a quarter or rear body panel you could be in BIG TROUBLE . I do this stuff often on late model cars with collision damage. I just did the back of a 2002 Lexus LS430. It got the floor a frame rail (unibody), right outer floor, rear body panel, and misc frame supports. I was able to weld the frame rail in solid, then the side, then the floor and then the rear body panel. The car was made in such a way that this was possible. I was able to clamp the rear body panel in place to locate the frame rail position, weld it in solid and then everything else fell into place.
It is NOT always that easy. On many cars, there is NO way I could have done that. I would have needed to put it ALL together and check fit on the decklid, complete with rubber and latches installed.

Take your time, do not rush this one.

Dave's Chevelle
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/2/web/506000-506999/506114_2_full.jpg

Here is a "Basics of Basics" on trial fitting parts.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>Trial fitting parts

There are few procedures that give you more ‘Bang for your buck” than trial fitting parts. Sounds simple, just common sense. However, it is something that comes with very hard learned lessons. Even after doing this work for over twenty five years, I still forget once and a while. When I do, there is a good chance I will pay for it dearly.

Like the fabricators motto “If you don’t have a pile of rejects in the trash, you aren’t doing good work”, the time spent on trial fitting is VERY good time spent.

This trial fitting should include nearly every single part of the car.

When installing a weld on part such as a quarter, trial fitting ALL the adjacent panels is not just something you “should” do, you MUST do it. The decklid, door, rear bumper, window mouldings, etc, should ALL installed and fit well BEFORE your welding is done. At this time a little minor tuning can turn an “OK” job into an outstanding one. You may even find the need to serious adjustment.

Trial fitting is not holding the part up and saying “yep it fits”. We are talking FULLY bolting the part on. If this is a moving part such as a door or deck lid, the latch should be installed, hinges FULLY bolted on and adjusted. The rubber seals and bumpers should be installed as well. On an older car this is not so easy because many are glued in, but SOMETHING has to be done to insure the part will fit properly when the rubber is installed later.

If you can’t install the rubber at that time at least spend some time looking at where the rubber fits to for a proper gap. For instance, while fitting a decklid to your new quarter (or the other way around, it makes no difference) get in the trunk and close the lid. Inspect around the channel where the rubber fits. Be sure it is a uniform distance ALL the way around. You can usually find the correct distance right where the hinges are. If the panel fits correctly on the outside then that gap for the rubber is usually going to be correct. If you feel for some reason that there is damage to that area, you need to spend some time there. If you feel the car has been hit on the side piller post (if you were fitting the door) you really need insure that the door fits properly and that you KNOW what that rubber gap should be. This gap is usually a uniform distance all the way around, be sure of it. When you are doing a door, you always have the other side to check to guidance remember. When installing a quarter, rear panel, upper panel, this is very critical. You don’t want to find out later that your gap is too small, the lid won’t close properly or sticks up. You don’t want to find out the gap is too large, the rubber may not seal and the trunk leaks water. A little minor shifting of parts prior to welding could take care of it.
You want ALL gaps perfect PRIOR to welding (a little tack here or there may be needed for fitting the parts) there is NOTHING that will tell you this other than FULLY mounting the adjacent parts.

Mouldings:
When doing any plastic filler work (“bondo”) or straightening metal you need to trail fit the mouldings, trim and adjacent parts as well. This is VERY important with parts like fender extensions. I don’t care if they are new/used or the even the same ones you took off the car, AWAYS trial fit them. Don’t leave you new repro parts in the package to install them after paint, you WILL be sorry.

Prior to paint or even primer you can “tweek” these mouldings against the body. After paint, it is much harder because you can scratch it. If there is plastic filler work or metal being straightened this is VERY important. After you have drilled holes for mouldings (Basics of Basics-Templates) bolt the mouldings on for fit.

The cars weight should be on the “wheels” when making these panel adjustments. NEVER fit panels while the car is on jack stands on the frame or on a rotisserie for something like that. You can have the car on jack stands but be sure they are under the rear axle and front control arms to “replicate” the forces of the car on it’s wheels. I don’t even like the under the control arms at all, I put the car on it’s front wheels. The weight transfer is not the same in the middle of the control arms as it is at the point where the tire hits the ground.

I can not stress this enough, trial fitting parts is not because you are a newbe or something. Every experienced body man does it everyday to some degree. Trial fitting is done throughout the entire repair of the car. Nothing could be worse than getting your car back from the painter only to find parts don’t fit!
Just yesterday I was working on 2002 Honda CR-V with a little dent on the quarter right at the edge by the rear gate. I had finished the plastic filler work and was ready to send it to the paint department. I went ahead and installed the new decklid just to be sure it was right, even though this was a very minor repair that should easily be fine. I found out I was a little off on the filler work. Now, it wasn’t the end of the world and could have even stayed that way. But with literally only a few minutes, it was perfect. On a very large job lately I found the need to pull the car back up on the frame rack for a little minor repair to where the rubber fits or the door would have been MUCH too tight. Just this little fine tuning made a world of difference to how the door fit.

The moral of the story is don’t ever “assume” your parts are going to fit. I don’t give a darn if they are new, repro, NOS, original, it really doesn’t matter, they MUST be trial fit.

The final assembly of your car should be fun, and relaxing. It is the best part of the whole project. Don’t make it a nightmare, don’t let someone rush you during the earlier phases of the project. Right from the very beginning you are laying the foundation for the finished project. Take the time to do it right.
If you trial fit the parts properly you will never know the pain you saved yourself, but believe me, it was time very well spent.

Dude two words for ya PARTS CAR :D

Dude two words for ya PARTS CAR :D

Thats ALOT of work involved in that one. Too much for me. Id much rather go out to CA buy one for 3400 bucks and all it needs is quarter, but wait Ive done that

thanks for the support guys. its taken me 2.5 years to gather the factory correct good parts off of 5 chevelle parts cars, just for the rear. these i would purchase for 150$, rob the parts, then sell the frames to the dirt trackers for 100$. ive had lots of time to think about how to do this and ask questions. in my mind i can see it clearly, and i think this is a big part of it. Martinsr, thanks for the tips, most of this stuff i had either though of or someone had told me, but with them posted now they are perminent record to easly access as i go through this. i will post new pics as i progress. the trunkpan is bolted in now as well as the package trey. will be test fitting the quarters and deck lid very soon. STAY WITH ME GUYS, im gona have lots of questions. i know i can, and will do this right and have a near totaly rust free nice car when done. thanks Dave

Originally posted by sevt_chevelle:
Dude two words for ya PARTS CAR :D

Thats ALOT of work involved in that one. Too much for me. Id much rather go out to CA buy one for 3400 bucks and all it needs is quarter, but wait Ive done that Sometimes is not a decision of it becoming parts car or buying another to restore.Its about the sentimental value of a car.This might be the first chevelle he's bought with his money and that means something to him,he just cant scrap it just like that. :rolleyes:

Some would say junk it and get another but SOMEONE has to restore it or its another one gone to chevy heaven. graemlins/waving.gif

Good luck to you, my friend. (In best Rob Schnieder accent) "You can do eet!"

:D

well, let me try and explain. when i was about 18 (im 50 now) i always wanted to take a car apart and restore it. if i dont do it now it will never happen. the car was in fair shape (i thought) when i bought it. I didnt know how to look for damage. im into the car pretty deep,$$$ wise. i know it looks bad, but its really not that bad. yes theres a lot of labor involved. i have located very good factory replacement parts, they haver been cleaned to bare metal, and dp90 applied. YES, i agree, looking at it from the dollar and labor side, there are cheaper and faster ways to go. this project gives me something to do (which i enjoy) and will give me a great sence of accompishment when done. Plus, it may give some people some incouragment about there projects. stay tuned, i will keep you all abreast of the project with pics on the site.

im going to keep your pictures so when i think i got into deep with mine i,ll look at yours and wont feel so bad.

Sheetmetal, When you're done welding that back together I bet you'll have a big smile on your face smile.gif The sad part is everyone that admires the car will never appreciate the labor involved to get it there. I've been involved with similar projects and most of them would have never been attempted by the average bodyman. My 14 year old son is now undertaking a similar project on his 70 Nova SS. Piece by piece it is coming together but with limited funds he works with what he has. His fenders for instance had corrosion that would have labeled them scrap by anyone's standards but instead they've been completely disassembled spotwelds and all, totally cleaned, bracing sandblasted, patched, and rewelded back together. About 35hrs. invested in each fender! But now they are rust free and he has learned how to truly restore a panel inside and out. He will know every square inch of this car by the time it is done and will enjoy the rewards of his hard labor. But again, only someone that has attempted these labor intensive jobs will ever appreciate the amount of work that's gone into them. Anyone can buy a car, only a few can build them. ;)

This doesn't look so bad. But, I would use CLEO fastners. They are faster, smaller hole than sheet metal screw and hold better for all the times you will be taking stuff apart and puting back together. Good Luck

sheetmetal I have to admire you for sticking with it and asking the right questions. I am fairly new to this sight and was contemplating getting another chevelle because I "thought" mine was too far gone (it has sentimental value, been in my family for 25 years). After reading the post here and seeing the projects under way as well as completed ones I have a whole new motivation. The folks on this sight are the most knowledgable and helpful I have found.

just think, after you finish this project you will be one of the seasoned veterans giving guys like me help and advice.

heres another way i look at this. so far, this is the remains of 5 cars. 6 if you count the door that was replaced at an earlier point. 2 of the cars that i robbed parts off of and destroyed in the process were in about the same shape as the one im rebuilding (rebuildable cars to someone). im only one person in the country, but have canibalized several chevells beyond repair, to build the one. at some point there wont be any left and the ones left, numbers matching, true ss cars, OR NOT, they will be very valuable. other than the smashed trunk, this is a rust free car. here are new picks, page 2 http://cardomain.com/id/sheetmetal2

hey SheetMetal.. best of luck to you.... im 18 right now and i have a 4 door 67 chevelle that im restoring. it needs new floors, floor braces, rear weel wells lower quarters and lower front fender patches, and a new trunk, and new rocker panels. i live n pa and the cars here are rusty.. middle of winter and i have no garage but i still go outside and work on it every chance i get. everyone tells me its not worth it and i got in over my head with a parts car.. friends put ads on it for companies that tow junk cars for free.. but i will show them all. i se it as saving another one from chevelle heaven like mentioned by someone else in an earlier post.. never give up. its good to see people who care about these great cars as much as you

The hobby need more people like you to keep it going, and to save the cars that are left. GREAT JOB it looks like it will be one nice car when finished. I too have restored three cars and every time I finsh one I say No Way not again. That was three cars ago. I also have to keep busy and have that same sense of acomplishment. Enjoy!!

This post is from 2004.. I wonder if it ever got finished. I"ve never seen sheetmetal post before, and he had over 1,100 posts so I have a feeling he's gone now.