I know a guy who wants to sell me a 1976 454 Big Block that came off a 3/4 ton pick-up. Any idea as to how much I might be looking at spending for it?

Also he told me that he doesn't know if it is a 1 or 2 piece rear main seal. Why would that matter to me? Is that something I should be concerned about?

Any and all info would be awesome!!


P.S. are there any clearance issues with a 454 that came out of a truck if I wanted to put into a 1970 Chevelle?

I know you guys can help me. :beers:

a 1976 454 will have a 2 piece rear main seal.
I'd be looking to pay between $500-$1000 for it depending how good it runs.
Might need to have the oil pan and oil pump pick up swapped out to the passenger car style.

But what does it mean 1 or 2 piece? Is that bad or good? Please tell me why it would matter?

Also, any clearance issues with a 70 Chevelle? I heard it might be a "tall deck" engine. What is that?

If it is out of a pickup it is most likely a standard deck height, not a tall deck
standard is better for header installation cleanace.
Two piece refers to the main oil seal on the crank, comes in two pieces vs one on the newer blocks.

Nothing wrong with the two pc. seals, just a different design. Pickup trucks used the same engine as a passenger car, just maybe a different pan and pickup as Chris said. Otherwise, no difference. The deck is the top of the block where the head bolts on....the tall deck blocks are .400 higher, or taller, than a standard block, measured from the crankshaft. But those engines are 427's, not 454s, and they are in bigger trucks, like dump trucks, busses, etc, not pickups or suburbans.

One more thing to add, the truck 454 motors are usually 4 bolt main motors, sometimes with a steel crank, but most to my knowledge are small 'round' port heads which are poor on flow, you wont want to use those.

Don't forget that the 2 piece vs 1 piece real seals require a different flywheel/flexplate if my memory serves me well. Hopefully someone will chime in if this is incorrect. Also, I have a 454 out of 83 dually truck that is 2 bolt. No big deal but just a heads up that not all ( and maybe not the majority) truck motors are 4 bolt.

Durand

Mine came out of a 76 dually. It's a 2 bolt main, cast crank with peanut port heats and quadrajunk carb. I swear i can drop the clutch at idle and it won't die, a real stump puller and fun to drive around town but right about 4k rpm it goes flat.......LOL.

What kind of numbers would one of those motors put up, I'm tryin to convince my parents to let me buy one

tell your parents it a smog engine, won't make over 200 HP.

DOes anybody know what was the first year of peanut port heads? I thought it was in the 80's

I doubt that will work, but if you see my post in the GM350/290 thread then you'll see why I want one, And whats so good bout peanut ports?

It depends if the block, crank, and heads are in good shape for a rebore and rebuild or not.

you can easily get 450 HP with 93 octane gas out of that thing if you have the regular size oval port heads - and have them reconditioned, fresh pistons/rings (higher compression recommended), a moderate hydraulic cam, peformance intake manifold, headers, and 750 cfm carb. Nothing fancy.

I believe if you have the heads ported, and throw on some roller rockers you can add another 40-50 HP.

none of that parts and labor in itself is expensive - but it all adds up - that's the problem. couple hundred bucks here and there and everywhere and next thing you know you've spent another $1500 (minimum) on top of the price you paid for the engine to begin with.

you can easily spend $1000 just for machine shop services on the block, heads, or crank (guys help me out here).

last year I spent around $800 for a engine shop to have my oval port iron BB heads reconditioned, and ported. they put in all new valves, seats, guides, springs, seals, decked it, etc. Maybe I should have just bought new aluminum heads (I probably should have). I should find my receipt - I don't remember the exact cost but I know it was near $1000.

are you planning on tearing the 454 apart and rebuilding it fresh - or just removing it from the truck and installing it in your vehicle as is?

Lee

Tom,I have some door stop 136 (or 236 :clonk:) casting peanut port heads laying around.I believe they are 1978 castings

, And whats so good bout peanut ports?

Nothing, that's the problem. They have very small intake and exhaust runners/ports, so they are not a good candidate for performance. The make a great low rpm stump puller, but you wouldnt get good reliable higher rpm performance out of them. For a strictly street engine that you dont plan on turning past 4.5K or so, they would probably suffice. Otherwise, go for some other chevy heads.

Right, new, it put out 235 to 245hp!!..

pdq67

If the water pump housing meets the top of the block at the heads you have a standard deck.If it is a 366 or 427 talldeck..the clearance is increased by .400".Easily viewed with the eye..no need to break out the calipers.

.400 thousands is .100 thousands short of 1/2 inch.:D just trying to help:thumbsup:

Besides determining if its a tall block or not..Id suggest pulling a valve cover and getting the casting #'s off the top of the head....Then determine what the heads are...hopefully they will say on the top of the head Hi-perf and 781 on the head. Those a probably whats on there and a good candidate for some performance work. doesnt matter if its 2 bolt or 4 bolt block..whens the last time you heard of a 2 bolt main BB letting go at a main cap. I never have except when you approch RPM beyond resonable limits for that block which I would guess to be over 7K . With 781 or 049 heads, stock crank, stock rods with upgraded hardware, valve change and mild port work, a mid 500 lift cam on 110LSA, and a 750 cfm carb you should easily approach 450-500 hp and Tq figures. Take note though ....even budget big block builds are quite a bit more expensive than a small block build. Good luck in trying to convince your parents.

I just recently put together a 454 out of a truck, it was 2 blt main w/cast crank to replace the one presently in my 86 one ton. Bought used motor for $500, machine shop bill for lower end $800, forged piston engine kit $625 +/-, xtreme comp cams full kit $400+/-, carb/intake $400, heads are 71 oval port that I was lucky enough to get for free from a buddy whose machine shop had just closed otherwise expect to pay $800-$1000 like someone else had mentioned for a rebuilt set. Stay away from the small port heads period if your rebuilding, there is too much to gain by using anything else.

ya..........peanut ports are no good!! i built a budget 468 2 yrs ago......just through together what i could come across.. 2 bolt main truck motor 25cc dome pistons, peanut port heads, holley750 edlelbrock rpm intake.. i put some 373s and a th350 with 3200 stall to that combo its a tork monster for about 3 seconds!!! then its just loud and slow after 4k:sad: finally got me some 781s and ported them out and got a comp magnum 286 cam cant wait to put it together and loose those peanuts!!!:hurray:

Wow!...way bad combo, a no rpm motor with a high stall, that was a short ride, huh? I have'nt gotten mine running yet, the winter is delaying the transplant, but I'm looking forward to hearing it run.

ya i just kept buying what i wanted for the long haul with plans of changing the heads and cam but the rearend went so i put 373s instead of the 308s then the stall went so i put a 3200 intead of stock!! kinda ass backwards but it will all be corrected hear in a minute!!.............it got bad after the 3200 stall though!! top speed of like 65...........what a waste of gas at 3800 rpm to!!:( :sad:

It depends if the block, crank, and heads are in good shape for a rebore and rebuild or not.

you can easily get 450 HP with 93 octane gas out of that thing if you have the regular size oval port heads - and have them reconditioned, fresh pistons/rings (higher compression recommended), a moderate hydraulic cam, peformance intake manifold, headers, and 750 cfm carb. Nothing fancy.

I believe if you have the heads ported, and throw on some roller rockers you can add another 40-50 HP.

none of that parts and labor in itself is expensive - but it all adds up - that's the problem. couple hundred bucks here and there and everywhere and next thing you know you've spent another $1500 (minimum) on top of the price you paid for the engine to begin with.

you can easily spend $1000 just for machine shop services on the block, heads, or crank (guys help me out here).

last year I spent around $800 for a engine shop to have my oval port iron BB heads reconditioned, and ported. they put in all new valves, seats, guides, springs, seals, decked it, etc. Maybe I should have just bought new aluminum heads (I probably should have). I should find my receipt - I don't remember the exact cost but I know it was near $1000.

are you planning on tearing the 454 apart and rebuilding it fresh - or just removing it from the truck and installing it in your vehicle as is?

Lee



Yes, we are going to overhaul it and I want to put new pistons and steal crank. I'm also thinking about adding aluminum heads. It's gonna be a year before I'm done with it.

I believe if you have the heads ported, and throw on some roller rockers you can add another 40-50 HP

Ported heads and 2.19/1.88 valves might add 40-50 HP but roller rockers won't add any proven HP or reduce your ET at the dragstrip.

On budget motors I have had good luck just bolting on a set of closed chambered heads from 65-70 on a 454. No valve work and a torque cam. In a 69 chevelle 3.73 4sp m20 I was running high 12's at 107mph.

Ported heads and 2.19/1.88 valves might add 40-50 HP but roller rockers won't add any proven HP or reduce your ET at the dragstrip.

what about changing to a roller cam setup on a 454?

also, am I to understand that you are saying there will be no power increase by changing from non-roller to roller tip rockers?

I'm not sure if I agree with that but I am no expert.

Lee

what about changing to a roller cam setup on a 454?

also, am I to understand that you are saying there will be no power increase by changing from non-roller to roller tip rockers?

I'm not sure if I agree with that but I am no expert.

Lee

Roller cam will for sure give you a boost in performance, the lobes are much more agressive, and just more efficient. The engine will breath much better. I agree with Chris though, if you're just doing the roller rockers for a performance gain only, put your 200 bucks somewhere else. They free up a bit with less friction, but I'll bet that alone is immeasurable.

Roller rockers are best used when your spring pressures are really high b/c stock rockers can only withstand like 350 pounds or so open before they start to gaul and wear out over time..

To me, the best bang for the buck here is just CC's old Magnum cast-steel roller tipped rockers only b/c they are 1.72" lift and real uniform vs the stock, stamped steel one's varying lift all over the map...

Unless you want to use a solid roller cam that take's alotta valve spring....

pdq67

One more thing to add, the truck 454 motors are usually 4 bolt main motors, sometimes with a steel crank, but most to my knowledge are small 'round' port heads which are poor on flow, you wont want to use those.


Not to start a flame war here, but most pick-up motors are NOT 4 bolt mains. Most are 2 bolts, another old wives, tale just like the tall blocks being in pick-up's. Neither one are true. Butfor most peoples needs the 2 bolt is very strong, unless you are doing some serious racing the 2 bolt ought to suffice.

Right Chevy..

P/U 454's are just 454 car engines in P/U's is all...

My '75 454 P/U engine that I made my 496 out of is a two bolt jobber that had a good set of -781 open chambered large oval head's on it w/ rotators and 1-notch, true, flat-top pistons..

pdq67

Thanks for the correction on the 4 bolts, I'm hear to learn as well, I had a couple of 4blt motors in 2 past trucks so I must of assumed. My present truck motor is a 2blt.

And fwiw, if you by chance run onto a 454 P/U engine w/ a bad crank, buy it AND install a 496 rotating assembly in it for about what making it back to a good 454 will cost!!

Try here..

http://www.ohiocrank.com/tech.html

AND here too!

http://www.speedomotive.com/

for inexpensive FORGED 496 rotating assemblies!! AND 550hp EASY!!

pdq67 and my now 496"er...

Brings back memories of an 84 Camaro I bought new. I got the 150 HP 305 because they wanted $700 extra for the 190 HP High Output engine. I said for $700 I can do better than 40 extra horses. Got a 350 shortblock for $500. That lowered 1/4 mile from 16.0 to 14.5 Then I got hold of a 1985 pickup truck 454 rated 230 HP. Dropped that in cast iron manifolds and all - nobody made headers for that combo back then. But it ran the same measly 14.5 seconds. Then I put on a set of aluminum heads and a hotter cam, but still had the stock Q jet. It now ran 13.0 at a 110 mph. Here's the amazing part. It truned that time shifting at 4500 rpm. The motor wouldn't turn over 4800 rpm due to the heavy steel reinforced pistons. You might want to test those truck pistons with a magnet.