I have a 71 Chevelle . The paint is black
and full of orange peel.I think it is clear coated.Is there any way to work this out
without having to repaint.Also the car has nice red pin stripes,will wet sanding mess
this up. Thanks to all,

Sand the paint with 2000 grit paper and a flat rubber block then polish it with compound,and then machaine glaze.You sand just till you cant see any more shine. Thats when the paint is flat. That should take care of you proplem. If you need any futher info drop me a line. Have fun

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SS 327 65 malibu
SF CA
1965 SS
There is Nothing like An SS Made your way
65 SS Chevelle (http://members.nbci.com/ss454maliy/)

Don't use a block, it can cut right through your clear. Go the autobody store and ask for a wet sanding rubber and start at 1000 grit. with 2000 your arm will fall off by the end of the first panel. then go to 1500 and buff

Yeah 3M makes a Blue Wet Sanding Block.. It looks like a neoprene sponge.. It's stiff but more forgiving than a block.. I'd say use 1500 all the way.. alot of work.. but worth it! Also get a squeegee to dry off each time you think a spot is finished. You will SEE that there is no more orange peel when it's dried. If your peel is THAT BAd I might go with 1000 to cut it quicker.. Do a test area first.. If you go through the clear you may have to re shoot the clear..

Do you know if the sand paper will tare up the pin stripes or not.Any ideas,
THANKS NORMIE
FATLIP
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by normie:
Yeah 3M makes a Blue Wet Sanding Block.. It looks like a neoprene sponge.. It's stiff but more forgiving than a block.. I'd say use 1500 all the way.. alot of work.. but worth it! Also get a squeegee to dry off each time you think a spot is finished. You will SEE that there is no more orange peel when it's dried. If your peel is THAT BAd I might go with 1000 to cut it quicker.. Do a test area first.. If you go through the clear you may have to re shoot the clear.. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

yes the sand paper will, you can just tape them off. You can polish over them, most of the time. I never had any proplems with polishing them.

Forget saving the pin stripes, they are cheap. They can be a bugger bear to get off, but someone (I think 3M) makes a rubber wheel (its like an eraser)that will zip them off in a jiffy with out hurting the paint. You local body shop supply house should be able to hook you up. Another tip on wet sanding is to completely stay off the edges with sanding blocks and just lightly touch them with the buffer otherwise you'll be looking at primer or bare metal.

Definately stay away from edges.. I would say both with the sanding and buffing. You would be suprised on how fast you will go through the paint right to bare metal with a buffer.. I would do those areas buy hand with nothing between you and the paper/buffing compound on a rag. Otherwise you might have a nightmare on your hands.. I would say block the car and have a pro buff it!

I've seen posted in the past:
to put quality masking tape (3M) on all the edges to avoid problems with burning throgh the paint.
jack