Just received my new moser 9 in for a 70 malibu a-body and was going to replace the lower control arms with lakewoods lift bars (ssm bars)To deal with the wheel hop issue, well they dont work. The brackets are totally different on the 9 in., same location but different set-up. Dont have any clues what to do now, re-use my old upper and lowers, send them back and get aftermarket arms,poly or rubber, any help would be great, new at this stuff and I'm lost. Thanks for the help, Money is an issue, mainly for street with 454 with 500 h.p with occasional drag use for fun.Ive done searches and learned everything with the axle bearing installation but nothing on what is a good set-up

I put a Moser 9" in my '72. I'm using Hotchkis lowers ans adjustable uppers w/braces. I mainly run on the street and make about 20-30 passes a year with NO wheel hop at all. I'm also running a 454ci w/around 500hp. Hope this helps.

Thanks, are you using poly or rubber bushings. Are these what you had since you installed the 9 in. Just wondering how it would handle with the stock stuff with new bushings and if there is any wheel hop. Also how did your wheels fit with this install, I had very little room next to the shock before with the 10 bolt, wonder if I should at least get adjustable uppers in case I have to move it a little to center the rear.need alot of help guys, thanks

Aren't the brackets on the Moser rear already relocated for better geometry? The lift bars might make it worse in that case. I would go with new bushings in the stock arms for now.

Yea I heard something like that in a post here, I will call them in the morning, The lift bars wont work anyway so Im sending them back, $170 to play with, should I use it on adjustable uppers to play with the pinion angle, and should I use poly or rubber, i know its a big debate just wondering why alot of people say rubber and every new control arm or suspension item has poly bushings with them Thanks again

Edelbrock adjustable upper, and UMI single adjustable lowers, and you'll be all set. You'll have swivel joints in all the critical area's, and poly at the lower forward mount. That is the lowest bind area of the rear. This is the cheapest, lowest bind set-up I could find. And I spent many hour's researching this here on Team Chevelle, looking at post's from Dennis, and Derek69, and other's.

Thanks alot, when you say swivel do you mean the spherical ends, and what does umi stand for. I appreciate the help.http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EDL%2D5248&N=700+4294925130+4294839061+4294848363+4294865239+ 4294908216+115&autoview=sku


are these something like your suggesting

Those are exactly what I am talking about. If you mess with the stance of your car, you'll need them to set the pinion angle. Here's a link to UMI performance. I did forget one thing, I also went with the Wolferacecraft spherical bearings, that go in the ears of the differential. Get the arms, and do the bearings later.


http://www.umiperformance.com/default.aspx

i thought moser raised the upper mounts to help out some