Ok guys I've come to the realization that my front fenders are completely wailed. I found 2 used fenders for my car in the "above average condition, need a little work" catergory. Do you suggest I do this (with next to no body experience?)? What should I look for when i look at them? Any help would be appreciated, thanks…

PS I picked up the other stuff pretty quickly and getting better as time goes on would it be a learning experience thing or just stay away all together?

Thanks again…

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1970 chevelle
406 - TH-350 - soon to be 411's
engine (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/engine.jpg)
Interior (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/interior.jpg)

"I didn't get pulled over for going over the speed limit, i got pulled over for getting there faster than anyone else"

I would personally look on the underside of the fender, and the back of it..

Also look closly for any very small bubbles or maybe even a crack like line.. (If the paint raises up around that little crack.. there is more rust under there..)

Good luck.

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Shai

1972 Chevelle Malibu custom 4dr (http://72-chevelle.cjb.net)
Restoration started: February 10th 2001
TC member #1278

Original fenders in need of work are MUCH better than the repop's. The shape and fit of the originals are far superior. It takes a lot more time work and expertise to get a re-pop fender to fit well and line up with the other panels. Most original fenders will have some rust on the lower part behind the front wheel opening. This is mostly cased by leaves, twigs and whatever getting trapped in there, getting wet and staying wet. This area is easy to fix either with a mig welder or even 3M body adhesives and a steel patch. If the edges are eaten away, you can but the entire bottom repair sections for ~ $40 each. They're also good for the lower edge where the mounting holes are.
Here's the exceptions for salvagable fenders:

Rust in arched wheel areas, any edges, or mounting holes (except bottoms, they can be fixed)

Previously large repaired areas of major dents that involved holes, dent pullers or a lot of hammering.

Any large dents on the top edge or front edges.

Cool guys thanks for the replies I appreciate the help and good advice to. Even Shai had some good advice http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif.

My next question is depending on the quality what is the going rate for a set of used fenders? What is the range from?

Thanks again

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1970 chevelle
406 - TH-350 - soon to be 411's
engine (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/engine.jpg)
Interior (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/interior.jpg)

"I didn't get pulled over for going over the speed limit, i got pulled over for getting there faster than anyone else"

Whatever you use in used fenders, if they need a bottom patch panel (We used OPG=good product), make sure you beadblast or sandblast the supports, then prime and paint or POR 15 them.

hope this helps.

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Team Members,

Richard, Judy, MAXX2
'69 Elke (Frame Off); GM HO 350/330-Mildly Ported Vortec Heads-Manley Severe Duty SS 2.02/1.60 Valves, Comp Cams Full Roller Package (Magnum)-Custom Grind CS 3315/3316 HR112-.510/.520 Lift, Edelbrock Air-Gap W/750 Performer Manual Choke-Performer 100 HP NOS, March Pulleys, 4L60 (Non Computer) W/Lokar Shifter, 12 Bolt Posi.

Definately does thanks guys. What about the whole inside on the fender as an extra protection. Would that be ok? I would assume so…

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1970 chevelle
406 - TH-350 - soon to be 411's
engine (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/engine.jpg)
Interior (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/interior.jpg)

"I didn't get pulled over for going over the speed limit, i got pulled over for getting there faster than anyone else"

Bring a refrigerator magnet with you..they don't lie

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1970 Chevelle SS396/M20/4.10 My 70 SS396 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/mr4speed70SS1)
Engine pic (http://chevelles.com/showroom/mr4speed70SSengine2)
1970 Chevelle SS454My 70 SS454 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/mr4speed70ss454)
1968 Oldsmobile Cutlass convertible
1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass 350 Olds,TH350(daily driver)
Chris Corwel,TC Member 785