Hi,

I've now heard that the main bearings should be inserted into the block and caps dry.
How about the connecting rod big end and the cap? Should the bearing halves be inserted dry?

I applied assembly lube to the main bearing saddle in the block and the cap before putting the bearings in yesterday. The same for the connecting rods and their bearings. Is this incorrect and will it be a problem? Should I redo it?

Thanks,
Phil

Never lube the saddles,only bearing surface contacting main and rod journals.

Oh yeah,I live in O.C. too.Maybe I will see ya up at Bear Mountain this upcoming hotrod season

take the bearings out, clean the bearings and saddles with brakeclean or similar. there shouldn't be any oil or grease or assembly lube behind the bearings

^ What those guys said.

Lube interferes with the heat transfer between bearing shell and the saddle. Don't lube the saddle. Lube the bearing/journal only.

Same thing goes for Loctite. I've heard of folks installing the bearings into the saddles with loctite "'cause I don't want the bearing to spin". WRONG!

I have a container of laquer thinner. I carefully wipe the back of the bearings and the rod or block with laquer making sure all grease and oils are gone then install the bearings dry. I do use lots of assembly lube on the bearing side next to the crank.

Ok, thanks for the feedback.

Back to square one... but I guess I'll never make that mistake again ;)

461rat - looking forward to Wednesday nights when the season comes

Cool deal.Good luck with your motor.Go to Middletown alot on friday nights also.See ya around

Now that I'm tearing it down... I'm rethinking all my steps.
Was I safe using STP as lubrication on the piston pins? (srp forged aluminum pistons with Scat pro-comp I-beam rods)
Thanks!

Now that I'm tearing it down... I'm rethinking all my steps.
Was I safe using STP as lubrication on the piston pins? (srp forged aluminum pistons with Scat pro-comp I-beam rods)
Thanks!
Yes to your question.I use GM EOS on the rods and mains and a high pressure lube from ARP on the valve train components.The cam bearings get EOS and the lobes get ARP moly lube.The break in period at 2K lasts for 1/2 hour and then the oil and filter is dropped for new.Works for me.

floating pins I take it? engine oil would be better, assembly lube OK too.

problem is, you really shouldn't re-use the pin locks. dang.

plcguru, if you haven't read Swheaton's post at the top of this forum, you would find much useful information in it. There are some dicey issues with lubricants these days, and you don't want any hassle with this new motor of yours. It sounds like a nice build. Ask lots of questions here. This site is the brain-trust of Chevelles and Chevy engines.

Good luck.

John

Hi,

I've now heard that the main bearings should be inserted into the block and caps dry.
How about the connecting rod big end and the cap? Should the bearing halves be inserted dry?

I applied assembly lube to the main bearing saddle in the block and the cap before putting the bearings in yesterday. The same for the connecting rods and their bearings. Is this incorrect and will it be a problem? Should I redo it?

Thanks,
Phil


Just for your piece of mind you can rest assured that shortly after you fire up your engine that assembly lube will be thoroughly rinsed out from behind the bearings by the engine oil. Don't worry. Even though most of us install bearings dry you haven't done anything fatal. Once you torque down the caps all of that prelube will be squeezed out promptly. :)

Upon disassembly I have NEVER pulled a bearing, rod or main, that didn't have oil behind it and I have rebuilt a TON of engines in my day. They DO NOT stay dry long :)