I was looking at my new Eastwood catalog today, and saw "Evercoat Slick Sand". Its a polyester primer, which comes in quarts and sprays on.

Do you treat this stuff as a filler, or as a paint primer? By this, I mean can you mix this with other brands of primer? Right now, I have Sherwin Williams etching primer on, and I like the idea of this polyster primer, as well as the price and no shipping cost. BUt I've always heard to use products in the same manufacturer range. However, since all I have on is Etch, what harm could putting the Slick Sand over it do? I didn't use SW brand body filler over my sheetmetal. In addition, the etch I used IS compatible with polyester primer. Thanks for any input!

Poly primer is basically thinned down body filler for spraying.
No body filler that am aware of is compatible with etch primer, meaning you can NOT apply filler over the etch.

So I really dont see how poly primer can be applied to etch. Althou I see that evercoat now makes a poly primer that "Says" compatible with etch.
http://www.evercoat.com/imgs/pis/FFG2PIS.pdf

Now for the million dollar question, WHY do you want a poly primer product? Its main purpose is the fill very large panels that would be hard to apply body filler to. Like a 1/4 panel that needs mud on every single inch of metal.
Basically poly primer is meant for some seroius fill work.

If you do decide to use a poly primer its always BEST to apply 2-3 coats of a urethane primer over that poly primer before final paint. Block out that urethane primer THEN paint. Even thou you can paint right over poly, you get better lasting results IMO...Eric

I really like evercoat's Featherfill 2G. Three coats does a lot of fill with absolutely no shrinkage. I agree with Eric about topcoating with a urethane surfacer for best results. It sure beats skim coating a complete panel a few times to get it show straight. It can be used over etch primer but does take longer to dry. The only drawback I've found is it needs to be mixed in larger quantities, one pint or larger. Urethanes can be mixed in ounces.

Guys,

Thanks for the input! Actually, the primer I am using is Martin Senour 15210 etch. I'm sure you guys know its actually a rebadged SW product. I wanted to ask, because I remember reading a thread here about NOT applying body filler over etch. Thats why I asked if its looked at as filler or primer.

As for why I wanted to use it, well I just want my panels as straight as possible. I no pro, and I just want the most bang for my buck when it comes to getting panels as good as I can possibly get them. I also thought that it might be a little more cost effective to use poly primer to block sand than to use multiple applications of urethane primer.I still will use a urethane in the end, I just didnt want to use as much of it (expense).
After looking at the PDS for the slick sand, you are right, sevt_chevelle. It doesnt say that etch is an "approved substrate", so forget that, I guess. I am intrigued by the link you posted, as it looks to be the same stuff badbob is using and seems to like.

Since Evercoat doesnt make paint, does the *use the same manufacturer* rule still apply? I'm just using them as an example, there might be other similar products where I would ask the same thing. Actually, if the rule DOESNT apply, could I ultimately switch to a Dupont or other urethane primer with little difficulty?

sevt_ i'm using the omni etch primer mp176 and it says not to apply onto body filler.so i etch first then bondo using the metal to metal by evercoat.am i wrong with this,if so what will happen if i leave it?the guys at the paint store also said to etch first.thanks gary

Use the same manufacturer rule really doesn't apply to polyester fillers IMO, some paint and primer manufacturers don't offer a polyester filler. MXRACER- do your filler work before applying etch primer, when spraying the etch primer in filler areas it is ok if just a little ends up misting onto the filler, don't do your filler work over the etch primer-the filler will soften and liquify(sp) :( the etch primer. Body filler has solvents that evaporate when curing but if applied over etch the solvents will just get absorbed by the etch primer. If you did end up putting filler over etch prime be prepared to wait a very long time for the primer to redry- not a good thing to do.

Mixing products is not a good thing to do and opens the door for problems and compromises any paint manufacturer's warrantee, but vehicles do get refinished everyday that had been previously painted with ? so if you understand how the products work it helps to avoid problems.

Well, that now that I can see that polyester primer really is a primer, but not like a REAL primer smile.gif , I get it. I can see that Eastwood sells a store brand etch primer now too. Can we now put etch primer in the same category as polyester primer? OK to go out of the loop when it comes to sticking with a product "line"?

What would be the harm in using MS etch, Evercoat Featherfill 2G to do the majority of the blocking, THEN sticking to a manufacturer such as PPG or Dupont for urethane primer, base coat, clear coat? My reasoning for this is availability of MS products and its ULTIMATE compatibility with Sherwin Williams paints. Im wondering if I can get one and not the other if I can substitute one FOR the other.

Thanks for all great input! Any online stores carry this Featherfill 2G?

As for using a S-W etch then feather fill then a PPG/Dupont or whatever primer then paint, go for it.

If the product is cured and sanded appling a different manufactors product over it WONT HURT a thing. You start running into problems when you mix products that are not cured.

I would stick with a NAME brand product, I wouldnt want to buy from eastwoods, who knows where they get it from!!

Originally posted by sevt_chevelle:
As for using a S-W etch then feather fill then a PPG/Dupont or whatever primer then paint, go for it.

If the product is cured and sanded appling a different manufactors product over it WONT HURT a thing. You start running into problems when you mix products that are not cured.

I would stick with a NAME brand product, I wouldnt want to buy from eastwoods, who knows where they get it from!! Good to know that you are OK mixing products as long as it is within reason. I know you shouldnt be mixing different primers & reducers etc. However, you always hear "buy one and stick with it"..Not sure about availability of MS/SW stuff where Im at, so might as well make it easier to get products when I get to that stage, if there is no harm done.

I was just throwing the Eastwood stuff out there as an example. I would buy the name stuff (evercoat, etc) when it comes to something like that poly primer, but their house brand primers etc.., I agree with you- I'll stick to something that is known.

Thanks a TON for clarifying this stuff for me! It really helps out a lot and gives me many more options to look at graemlins/thumbsup.gif

sevt_ i'm using the omni etch primer mp176 and it says not to apply onto body filler.so i etch first then bondo using the metal to metal by evercoat.am i wrong with this,if so what will happen if i leave it?the guys at the paint store also said to etch first.thanks gary

I wouldn't do that (fillers over etch primers)....I'd use epoxy on the bare metal and then use your filler of choice.

Maybe others will answer also.

Why are you using Metal2Metal filler??