I am actually the owner of a 1967 Jeepster Commando, but I was pointed here because there is alot of expertice about body work. The total build up on the mechanicals is done and I'm finding that a welder is now in my near future. I'm on a bit of a budget, so buying 2 welders when I've realized that I bought the wrong one is not an option. I need to be able to replace a few floorpans and weld 1/4" body mounts as well as the tire carriers and other stuff commonly found on Jeeps.
Could anyone advise me on a purchase that will not be for a professional (as in not years of daily use) but sufficient for a serious hobbyist? The one I have in my sites so far is the Hobart Handler 135.
Thanks,
Michael

Click on "search" and select Body Shop, use the keyword "welder" or "mig welder". There should be tons of info that comes up. Here is a great article one of the gurus on the site has published. Search for all his articles and read them, invaluable stuff.
http://www.chevelles.com/forum/Forum3/HTML/007134.html

Michael,

I just unboxed my new Hobart 135 last night. I haven't had a chance to us it yet, but it came recommended to me by my Uncle that built a '73 Toyota Landcruiser with his. I found the Hobart on sale at Northern Tools for $400. A pretty good price I thought. I just checked and the sale is still on.

Good Luck.

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R.J.
1972 Chevelle
TC Member #1525
RJ's website updated 12-1 (http://www.buffnet.net/~airrj/)
2003 Northern Chevelle Gathering (http://www.angelfire.com/folk/canam/page35.html)

I'm wondering if you'd do a test for me since there seems to be a disaggrement on our Jeep board. One guy claims that he couldn't get decent penetration with the 135 on 1/4" steel. He said it looked nice, but when he broke it apart in a vice with a hammer, it showed VERY little penetration. He said that he had several others try it too with the same results. I trust this guy almost like a GOD when it comes to engines and Jeeps so that's my only reason for not picking the 135 at this point.
He said it worked really well on sheetmetal, but I need a machine that does both. If you test it on some 1/4" stock would you post the results on this thread so I can hear how it went?
Thanks in advance.
Michael

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by airrj:
Michael,

I just unboxed my new Hobart 135 last night. I haven't had a chance to us it yet, but it came recommended to me by my Uncle that built a '73 Toyota Landcruiser with his. I found the Hobart on sale at Northern Tools for $400. A pretty good price I thought. I just checked and the sale is still on.

Good Luck.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The general rule of thumb is that you need 1 amp of machine power for every .001" in material thickness you intend to weld. For 1/4" thick material, you should have no less than 175 amps, preferably 200+ amps.

Most people who own smaller 110v machines likely don't know what true penetration is on thicker metal until they actually try welding thick plate with a 220v machine set on "smoke". It's a real eye opener...I know it was to me the first time I used a large powerful machine.
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Malibu Motorsports (http://www.malibumotorsports.cjb.net)
414 ci bbc, pump gas, 3500 lbs
10.66 @ 125 1/4 mile
6.74 @ 101 1/8 mile
1.47 60' on 9" tire

[This message has been edited by 10secBu (edited 01-16-2003).]

I have a a Hobart 135 and i love it.But for 1/4 you will want a 220v machine.The 135 is great for all around bodywork,i don't remember needing to weld anything that thick.I've welded frames by making multiple passes,but i would't make a habit of it.

Okay, I'm convinced. So can you (or anyone) recommend a solid 220V machine that won't break the bank?
Thanks,
Michael

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 70isfine:
I have a a Hobart 135 and i love it.But for 1/4 you will want a 220v machine.The 135 is great for all around bodywork,i don't remember needing to weld anything that thick.I've welded frames by making multiple passes,but i would't make a habit of it. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

IF you plan on 1/4" material down the road, look at either the Miller 210 Millermatic or the Lincoln PowerMig 200.

I have the next larger Miller (251 Millermatic) and they are great machines (both quality and performance).

Either machine will run around $1200.

There is also the Hobart 175, but it's just not in the same class of power and durability as the larger 200-210 amp machines. But, the 175 is better for thicker stuff than the 135, just not as good as the 200-210 untis.

------------------
Malibu Motorsports (http://www.malibumotorsports.cjb.net)
414 ci bbc, pump gas, 3500 lbs
10.66 @ 125 1/4 mile
6.74 @ 101 1/8 mile
1.47 60' on 9" tire

Michael,
I would go to a local welder supply shop and get thier advice. You will have to deal with them for gas, and other supplies and they will be a LOT more helpful if you have purchased your welder from them also. Most shops also have a decent supply of nice used welders that have been traded in etc. A lot of times you can get a lot more welder for the money with a nice used unit.
Welding technology has changed a lot since we purchased our Miller 35, so I might be wrong about this, but in my opinion you will need two machines if you plan on welding everything from sheet metal to 1/4" plate.

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Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md

1971 Heavy Chevy - original owner
Team Chevelle #100

What about a good buzz box and just plan on stick welding. I know I know. The learning curve is much tougher, but my project car has no welding necessary in viable areas. The body is in great shape except for a few floor pan spots (california truck). I bet that with practice I can build a tire rack etc. with stick welding, right? Yes, I have to chip the slag, and it's not as glamerous, but on a budget, would I be okay with a high quality unit of this type?
Michael.

Go to the local welding shop! The guys are selling these every day. When we had problems at work welding the rep came in and showed us a couple of tricks. He looked over our equipment and made some changes and things were better. Northern may sell but they don't service! The local welding shops will set you up with everything right from the start. One coworker went to Air Gas bought everything he needed and was set to go when he got home. He was there for three hours on a Sat. just learning what he was buying. He said it was the best place to go and get what he needed. The cost will be the same and people know what they are talking about.