I am currently in the process of removing quarters from a donor 66' elky. I want to preserve as much of the metal that I can. My question is, what is a good way to remove the panel around the wheel well opening? This is my first time replacing an actual whole quarter panel and I don't know if I am being to delicate with it or what. Thanks for any info.

This is one painstakeing job, if done right. Remember, you won't need the metal that is behind the quarter. In other words, anything that you won't be using on your car, cut the hell out of it so give you assistance in removeing the quarter.

Cut the metal away from the quarter leaving just were it is welded on to actual piece you will be using. Then you can take your time and "shave" off what you need to end up with a perfect panel like you have just bought it from GM. You can use a die grinder with a cutoff wheel to drind the top of the weld on the doner side, without cutting into the "user". Test a few, grind the weld, then pry up with a screw driver between the two pieces. You will find a point where you can grind just enough that you can pull the two parts apart just like you have unbolted it!

------------------
1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

I have parted out several cars and in process have cut my share of 1/4's. I have always used a torch, body or cut off wheel or combination of the three to get the main 1/4 off before doing all the fine trimming.
About 6 month ago I broke down and bought a Milwakee heavy duty sawsall. Now I don't know how I ever lived without one. It took that job from an all afternoon project to a 10-15 min job. You can use a 9" blade and cut through muliple panels at once. I highly recommend buying or borrowing one.

After you have the main piece cut off you can go back to the adjacent panels and carfully cut and trim all the spot welds as MARTINSR has said. Take your time and be carefull not for cause additional damage to the 1/4.
Good luck.....

------------------
The new project..
65 Riviera (http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1261171&a=13884837)
78 Malibu and Power Tour 2001 (http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1261171&a=13240332)
-66,000 org. miles
-orig. paint
-orig. int
-orig. V6
-almost all the above is true
67 Wagon (http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1261171&a=13352820)
project soon to be LT1 / 4L60E / 12 bolt posi daily driver

Whew! I have been sawsalling the heck out of this thing. I still can't get the friggin' thing off! I don't know what I am doing wrong. I have cut along the top of the bed (under where the trim would be) down inside the tailgate jam. Across the B pillar. I have all the welds down the door jam. I can see behind there a lil bit. Spot welds drill out in the gas door. It just seems like it is still attached somewhere. I just can't figure out where. Another question, I need the rocker too. You recommend cutting it all at once or seperate?

Another question, I need the rocker too. You recommend cutting it all at once or seperate?

I don't know if the elky rocker is the same as the Chevelle rocker or not. But if it is I would think the best way to go is to buy the new one on page 116 of Ground Up catalogue for $39.95.

66,

Check into a spot weld cutter. It's a special type of drill bit that you can use with any drill. It cuts out (in a circular pattern) the spot weld. After cutting out all the spot welds you just pop the panels apart. This cutter is like a mini hole saw. They come in differint sizes. I used primarily a 3/8. This will leave a 3/8 hole in the panel you are going to reuse which you will reweld at the same spot. This method does not destroy the good panel. Look for one at a good quality body shop supply store. Or check out Eastwood Products Catalog.
Save time, save money! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

FastSS396man

------------------
69' SS396 Chevelle
L78 396/375hp
M-21 Close Ratio
10 year Resto
It's brand new again!

[This message has been edited by fastss396man (edited 10-28-2001).]

My only advice. Just don't hack up parts you don't think you do but still may need when you start doing the replacement, such as the inner fender well. Been there, done that.

Peter