I have a nice set of fenders that need very little bodywork. The problem is at one time someone machine striped them and left them in bare metal. There is some minor pitting but not bad.

I decided to try metal prep to kill the rust.
After washing with this twice ,DA down and then metal preping them one more time they are looking like metal again.

It says to wash with water and let dry. When I do this because it is bare metal it instantly changes color. It is wierd though it is almost a greenish tint to it. Can I prime over this or does it need it me sanded off?

Also if there is 99% of the rust gone but lets say there is a tiny bit here and there at the bottom of a pit. If I epoxy over that will it continue to grow or will the primer stop it since oxygen can no longer get to it?

Thanks in advance for any input.

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78 Malibu (http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1261171&a=13240332&p=50222445)
still a terd but now with a new 383

67 Wagon (http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1261171&a=13352820)
project soon to be LT1 / 4L60E / 12 bolt posi daily driver

I've had good luck with "One-Step" and "SEM"
rust neutralizer. You can get it in spray-bomb form, but I get mine in pint jugs and brush it on. It drys / oxidizes into a black semi transparent form over rust. It can be epoxy primed directly. I've only used it on small spots and areas, and have had no concerns or problems.

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'68 SS-396 1/4 stroker "54" (soon)
'99 GMC 7.4 Vortech
'01 T-Cat 1404 Hooper 2X156"
"no replacement for displacement"
-2 Below Custom Automotive
Fbks, AK.

68ss,
Would you use that over the entire fender?
I used the spray can one step on a few spots on the back side on the braces and such. I wasn't sure how well it would work on an entire panel. What do you think?

I am also still open to feedback from anyone else.

------------------
78 Malibu (http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1261171&a=13240332&p=50222445)
still a terd but now with a new 383

67 Wagon (http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1261171&a=13352820)
project soon to be LT1 / 4L60E / 12 bolt posi daily driver

Use a metal prep to remove the flash rust. Usually, you don't wash the metal prep off, you just buff it dry. Follow the directions.

The instuctions say to wash with water. I have also been told if it is not neutralized
it will cause paint problems down the road.
Have I been told wrong?

------------------
78 Malibu (http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1261171&a=13240332&p=50222445)
still a terd but now with a new 383

67 Wagon (http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1261171&a=13352820)
project soon to be LT1 / 4L60E / 12 bolt posi daily driver

The metal prep WILL leave a residue that will cause issues if not washed off with water... you may want to have the fenders dipped and e-coated if they are STILL that bad.. either way good luck http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

thanks for the replies so far.

Right now dipping and coating is not an option.

Still knowone has addressed my original
questions.

1 Can I shoot over the instant flash that occures when I wash the acid off with water as per the instuctions.

2 If it turned out there was a little rust it the bottom of a pit that I missed and the prep didn't get If I epoxy over it will it stop it or bubble out 6 months down the road?

I have sandblasted in the past on similar situations but right now I don't have a feasible place to break out the pressure blaster and obviously it wont fit in my blast cabnet.


------------------
78 Malibu (http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1261171&a=13240332&p=50222445)
still a terd but now with a new 383

67 Wagon (http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1261171&a=13352820)
project soon to be LT1 / 4L60E / 12 bolt posi daily driver

Gearheads78, as to question one; I've scuffed after (I've neutralized) "Metal-Prep" with "Scotch-Brite" and then shot primer. It probably does nothing but so far it's worked.
Question two; the old addage "rust never hides" Depending on the ammount, It'll probably show sometime. I thought further on the subject of a rust neutralizer/convertor. About 7 years ago I performed a resto/paint on an early '50's GM p.u. One fender had been stripped and sat out in the elements for years. Needless to say it was rusty pitted bad. I remember sand-blasting the fender and applying "One-Step" to the entire piece before priming and bodywork. As far as I know there has been no concerns. I saw the ve about two years ago and all looked great!
Just my two pennys worth.
good luck http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

------------------
'68 SS-396 1/4 stroker "54" (soon)
'99 GMC 7.4 Vortech
'01 T-Cat 1404 Hooper 2X156"
"no replacement for displacement"
-2 Below Custom Automotive
Fbks, AK.

Thanks for the feedback that is what I wanted to hear. The truck to did is the same situation I am in. The fenders were striped years ago and put in a storage that was not completely water proof.

I guess after I finsh the little bit of plastic work I will da off the flash and one step where the worst of the pits are.

One last thing the one step says to wait overnight before top coating. Has anyone shot over it in the same day or do I really need to wait till tomarrow?

------------------
78 Malibu (http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1261171&a=13240332&p=50222445)
still a terd but now with a new 383

67 Wagon (http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1261171&a=13352820)
project soon to be LT1 / 4L60E / 12 bolt posi daily driver

I personally would wait the day... whats a few extra hours going to hurt?

I figured I should but if it doesn't get done today it will probably be the end of the week before I can get back to work on them. I was hoping to get them shot right after the plastic work is done.

------------------
78 Malibu (http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1261171&a=13240332&p=50222445)
still a terd but now with a new 383

67 Wagon (http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1261171&a=13352820)
project soon to be LT1 / 4L60E / 12 bolt posi daily driver

I know it's strange to wipe down with water after acid washing. It looks like rust! It freaked me out a little too when using metal-prep. I always completely dried the metal off then wiped them down with lacquer thinner. For these reasons I started using a metal-etching primer after removing ALL surface rust. I 'feel' better going this route rather than using acid & water.

I think PPG makes makes a metal wash that you just rinse the bare metal with. It prevents flash rust.