My left front tire has too much negative camber. The alignment place says there is no more adjustment in it. Nothing looks bent and the car tracks nice. What is the most likely suspect? Thanks.

Most likely the frame has sagged, it's quite common. Over time the front crossmember bends inwards, taking the UCA mounts along with it. That results in more negative camber/less shims. Eventually, the frame sags inwards enough that even with all the shims removed there is still too much negative camber.

Two fixes:

1. Run offset cross shafts; depending on the severity of the frame sag this might or might not be enough.
2. Fix the root of the problem and have the frame "rolled" back out on a frame rack.

Best option: do both #1 and #2.

how far out of spec is it? most likely the offset shaft will work just fine

The guy at the alignment shop knows exactly what you are talking about and will install the part with a new alignment for about $100. Does that sound fair? It does to me but probably because I am not to savy on front end work. Thanks guys.

Mark

$100 for the offset x-shaft, installation, and realignment sounds very fair to me.

However, down the road the frame likely will sag more and you'll eventually have to take it to a frame shop. No telling how long that will take, but I would probably bet it's in the years/tens of thousands of miles timeframe. I think I paid $175 or so to have my frame rolled back out a couple years ago, I think we rolled it out about 5/8" between the upper mounts.

Another option I neglected to mention is turnbuckle adjustable upper control arms...

http://www.scandc.com/spcarms.htm

You'll also be able to dial in quite a bit more positive caster using these which will dramatically increase high speed stability, and if you get the tall upper ball joints at the same time you will also see improvements in cornering traction.

Do you guys ever run spreader bars? They go across the front of the motor and push outward on the spring towers.

Do you guys ever run spreader bars? They go across the front of the motor and push outward on the spring towers.

We don't have any spring towers per-se and the best place to brace the front crossmembers on these cars would be between the UCA mounting points... which would unfortunately mean running a bar directly through the engine block. :p That is unless your engine is set back 12" or so...

However, a cross bar right in front of the engine as high on the frame rails as possible would definitely be helpful on these cars and certainly better than nothing at all. More helpful still would be nose bars tied into a rollcage with cross-stiffening on the nose bars-- since these frames flex up and down quite a bit using the firewall bushings as the pivot point. If anybody doubts me, just jack the car up and place the jackstands under the boxed section of the frame just under the firewall, then let the jack down and watch how much the frame continues to droop even after it's firmly on the jack stands. The heavier the engine, the more it flexes!