1964 Chevelle SS with a 396 and a muncie 4 speed.

I am considering swapping the Muncie 4 speed for a 700R4. Anyone solved the following issues?

- Will I have to change to a automatic console and shifter and put a kit in the shifter. I would like to find a 700R4 shifter that would work in the 4 speed console.

- Should I expect any clearance problems with the 700R4 and the floorpan?

- Can the 700R4 be set to use converter lockup in all gears like a new car or will I be stuck with lockup only working in 4th gear?

As the years go by I want to "just cruise" more than when I was younger. I currently run about 3200 rpm at 70 mph, hard to hear the radio or enjoy the ride for the exhaust noise.

I can't answer that, but, cruisin' ain't cruisin' without shiftin'! :cool:

I installed a 700R4 in my 70 Vell Sta. Wgn. Built the basic Very detailed clone. SS 454 RED 70 Wgn. It is a bolt in, Other than cutting the D-Shaft. The engine was a 307-T-350. Move crossmember back Bolt in700R. Remove shift arm from 350 bolt on to 700 hook up STOCK shifter. The stock 307 Cooler lines bolt directly to the 700, I used a $90.00 dollar loc-up kit (ELECT) I am using a 3:08 rear. Comes out of the hole like a rocket, first gear in 700 is 3:06, Muncie 2:20-2:54. At 75 MPH the 454 LS5 is turning 1950 RPMs and 19-20 MPG. P.S. For the 700 TV cable, take the kick down brkt. from the 307 intake. Use this to mount the TV cable (same size square hole). My wagon gets about 3-5000 miles a year and the overdrive is the way to go for a CRUISER!!!!!!!!!!! Gee 75 mph at 1900--- How fast would I be going at 4500 RPMs I will NEVER know.
Bob

I installed a 700R4 in my 70 Vell Sta. Wgn. Built the basic Very detailed clone. SS 454 RED 70 Wgn. It is a bolt in, Other than cutting the D-Shaft. The engine was a 307-T-350. Move crossmember back Bolt in700R. Remove shift arm from 350 bolt on to 700 hook up STOCK shifter. The stock 307 Cooler lines bolt directly to the 700, I used a $90.00 dollar loc-up kit (ELECT) I am using a 3:08 rear. Comes out of the hole like a rocket, first gear in 700 is 3:06, Muncie 2:20-2:54. At 75 MPH the 454 LS5 is turning 1950 RPMs and 19-20 MPG. P.S. For the 700 TV cable, take the kick down brkt. from the 307 intake. Use this to mount the TV cable (same size square hole). My wagon gets about 3-5000 miles a year and the overdrive is the way to go for a CRUISER!!!!!!!!!!! Gee 75 mph at 1900--- How fast would I be going at 4500 RPMs I will NEVER know.
Bob

I took the 700r4 and a 350 from a 92 caprice cop car, and all i can say is wow. Didnt have the money to rebuild either, and the car had 100,000 on the clock. That tranny is awesome. with a 3:36 gear in the rear, i am about 1700 rpm at 60mph. 20-22 mpg. And the first gear in that tranny is absolutely killer. fantastic set up. I would reccomend it to anyone.

The 700r4 can be set to lock up in all gears except 1st. You can do it a number of ways but a simple switch is the easiest. You have to try it a bit to see if you like it. Leaving it locked in 2nd for mine causes it to buck lot when making the 2-3 shift. It did better with my 2.55 rear than my current 3.55 rear.
If possible move up to the electroic version. Sure you need a computer to contol it but the level of refinement is hard to beat. And you use the same computer for the 4l60e and the 4l80e so you could move up to the much stronger 4l80e in the future if you needed to.
The 700 is a great cruising tranny. Having used one for 100,000 miles or so in my Chevelle I would never go back to a three speed non lock up.
Good luck with it...

Is the 700r4 tranny the same length as a TH400. I have swapped a TH400 in place of the muncie 4speed 2 different times in the past, that swap was pretty easy.

If the length is the same then I already have a driveshaft of the right length.

I don't think I understand how the 4l60e would be "more refined". Please explain. Isn't the 4l60e much more expensive?

No, the 400 is not the same length. Shorter by a fair amount.
The thing I have learned living with the 700r4 is that the throttle valve is always a crude way of handling line pressure. To put it simply, the more throttle you give it, the more pump pressure you get. Simple, but not great for all circumstances. Lots of compromises. Usually involves upping the pump pressure at the lower end to ensure adaquate pressure at higher rpm.
Here is my main problem with my 700r4 and the other ten or so I have worked on, build and dealt with....they are all 15 years old, some going back 25 years. Well, thats fine for a lot of stuff, but the valve bodies are getting pretty worn and sloppy, there are a thousand band aids for them to make them work well and pretty soon you have a Frankenstein monster. The same applies for the age of the 350's and 400's but they don't have to keep that overdrive alive. The 3-4 clutches are a huge weak point in the 700's and the 60's. If you ever saw them you would understand. Way too small with insufficent clamping force to ever have a long and happy life. Mine are wearing out about every 30,000 miles and that is with a lot of mods, tons of clamping force and I am still limping around right now without a usable 4th gear.
The later 4l60's have a lot of major improvements and they are pretty cheap as crate trannys directly from GM. The thing to never overlook with a tranny is it will NEVER be new again. Motors we can go totally through and they are better than factory. Rear ends, the same thing. But unless you want to replace EVERY part in a tranny there is still stuff in there with 100,000 miles on it that will be the one thing to bite you in the ass.
Don't get me wrong, I love the 700's. I have around 100,000 miles on mine since I put it in back in 2000. But I have also been inside it 3 times to replace the 3-4 clutches and have spent untold amounts of money and time to keep it going. They remind me of an my dad's Austin Healey Sprite. Runs great, but needs constant attention.
Thats why I am installing my 4l80e this weekend. I want something I don't have to worry about. The 80 and the 60 have computer control so you can have baby smooth shifts until say 20 percent throttle opening and then you get full shift so hard they put you in the back seat. The TCI controller I am installing also has a "economy" and "performance" switch that ups line pressure 25 percent by switch. Neat touch, but if I have it set up properly don't think I will need it.
Good luck with the 700. Nice tranny, just plan on keeping an eye on it..

I've got a TCI 700R4 in my 65. Replaced a Powerglide with floor shift. No mods to the tunnel required. I patched the tunnel hole for the link arm and drilled a new hole for the shift cable. Shiftworks has the adapter kit for a 700R4. I used the stock shifter and console. You can get an auto console at swap meets or Ebay. I've seen many in good shape. Mine locks only in fourth. Once I had the shift points dialed in, the tranny works great. The TCI Streetfighter is what I have and it shifts a bit stiff for street only, but is nice at WOT.