have a 67 hardtop and trying to replace the rusted out lower winshield channel (cowl?), but the repo part contour doesn't match up very good with the original...going to try to add a picture, but don't know if it will work . The new channel is at a different angle, so something needs to be changed? How flat/level does the channel have to be to get a good seal...there is also some deep pitting on the sides....how much imperfection will the mastick (tape) allow, and yet get a good seal?

any ideas or solutions?

thanks

haven't figured out how to add a picture...still working on it

must be someone with idea/tip on installing the windshield channel! no one else has done it to a 67? feel free to email

thanks

:confused:

Without a picture to show us, it is pretty hard to advise. I think I know what you are talking about but need more specific information. "Doesn't Match up very good" isn't much help.
Karl

You could always go with the modern urethane adhesive. It will fill in any pitting, and you can have a good amount of misalignment. If you go with urethane though, make sure you have a good competent shop do it. You have to be very careful to not set it in too high or too low or your reveal mouldings will look like crap. It's not that hard though, just takes some care and prlanning. That will be the route I go.

trying to add a picture one more time

http://s152.photobucket.com/albums/s196/gsantee2/

looks like you need to weld the gap up. dont forget to add studs or special screws for the w/s molding.I would dry fit the moldings and tap the new panel with a block of wood here & there.

That channel needs to be massaged a bit. Most of these items don't fit perfect, unless you make them fit. Your pic clearly shows that angles don't match up. Modify new channel to conform(beat it into submission).

thanks

Think I'll use a big hammer, vise grips, weld it (here and there) and seal the seams.....I'll put the trim studs on after the piece is in. There was a gasket or sealer of some kind between the channel and the top of the firewall (very thin)....any idea what it was (thin strip of some kind, don't think it was liquid?)

I'd suggest that you install your trim studs before welding the panel on the car. You can use the screw in studs and then come in from the back and weld them in place. If you do it after wards you will need to drill the hole , screw the stud in, and then watch the water sneek by and start rusting your new panel again. Your windshield sealing compounds (buytl or tube sealer) are pretty forgiving and will conform to an irregular surface.

I also replaced the cowl piece on my car. The original molding clips were long gone. All the clip around the posts and across the top use screws to attach the clips.

I read the posts about installing studs along the bottom.
Did the bottom originally use studs or screws also ?

Thanks... Gary

there used to be studs along the bottom. Maybe one of those welding guns that welds on the pins for body work would work to put on new studs, but it needs to be a good weld...don't want them to come off. Think more research is needed on my behalf. I want to see the screws and the studs for welding.

good point that I don't want it to leak thru the screw holes.... could use sealer around them, but no guarantee that they won't leak. Welded studs won't leak!

I have to quit taking this thing apart and start putting it back together (or I'll never remember how - even with all the pictures and video I've taken). Just want a driver (a dry one) that goes like stink!

thanks

Can someone post a picture of the lower windshield track showing the molding studs. I need to add them to mine.

Dimensions from the edge and a picture of one of the clips would also be great if someone has one apart for reference.

I have a stud welder and studs ready to go.

Thanks in advance... Gary

measured several studs (both front and rear window)....they appear to be 10/32 (on center) above the pinchweld. hope this makes sense

Thanks for the help.

Anyone have a picture ?

Gary