I have some bad rott around the rear window and need to weld in some patching. What is the correct and best guage of metal to use for this task.

thanks alot,

Brandon

[This message has been edited by 70mousejob (edited 02-13-2002).]

I use 22gauge.

If its the deck filler from the trunk to the rear window I'd use a 12 guage http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif and start over with a new $50 panel. In all seriousness that is what I'm gonna do after starting to patch it I figured that the new panel was the way to go.

It will be a while before I tackle this but someone else should be able to tell ya how hard it is to replace.

all this is assuming your talkin about the deck filler.
chris

If the rust isn't up over the top or the holes aren't those foot long ones like I have seen, I'd say repair it.

My main concern is using a repro part for this complicated piece. I picture having a horable gap to the deck lid and then the rear window moldings looking like a rope laying in a gutter.

It isn't a hard panel to replace, the quality of the repro is my only concern.

Repairing the rust is easy, it is makeing the thing last, that is the harder part.

------------------
1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

I've used a filler panel from NPD and the fit & shape was really good on a 69. But, like was mentioned above, if it's small rot spots or major big holes, repair it rather than replace the entire piece.

I am gonna throw out another question relating to body rot.

What if there are no holes in the panel and it just has the rust pits from the moisture? Should the panel still be cut out.

Seems to be different preferences about how to do this. Some will clean it up real good and then throw a coat of POR125 down and leave it at that. Other will hack out the panel and say that's the only way to do it. So which is the most effective way to repair it?

I have the panel your refering to, but also have some rust just outside of the patch panel, I suppose you could say its in the way upper part of the quarter, or just right of the patch. 12 guage? That seems really thick http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif , I thought it would be around 20. Any more opinions?

Thanks again for all of the replys,
Brandon

[This message has been edited by 70mousejob (edited 02-13-2002).]

I got a patch panel for the bottom of my rear window and it was around 12 gauge! Really heavy duty sheet metal. I think the repro pieces are heavier gauge because this has always been a problem area with rust-through. It's a perfect trough for catching water, leaves, etc. I strongly recommend removing the mouldings and cleaning this trough out regularly after you're finished.

My repro panel came up a little short (it was more than long enough, but not quite high enough at the corners) and I used some 22 ga to make up the difference. I also had some rust holes in the roofline inside the bed area of the rear window that I replaced with 22 ga. It worked out great. The contours were a little difficult, but not impossible. Much easier with 22 than it would have been with 12 or 16.

Be very careful when working in the area where the glass seals. Everything can look like it's lined up nicely, but don't finish the welding until you've test fit the glass. Fortunately I realized this before I went too far.

Another suggestion is to get an old hood or something from the junkyard (or maybe an old panel that you replaced) and cut pieces from it.

Go here (http://www.geocities.com/chadjlandry/rearpanl.html) to see a step by step of the job that I did.

------------------
My Web Page (http://www.landry-family.com) (updated 1-9-02)

"America will endure!"

Chad Landry
TC Member #643
ACES Member #04556
'68 El Camino

[This message has been edited by cjlandry (edited 02-13-2002).]

ss396boy I am gonna throw out another question relating to body rot.
What if there are no holes in the panel and it just has the rust pits from the moisture? Should the panel still be cut out.


my 71 had just surface rust and pits in it too, kinda like crumbs. i didnt cut the panel out cause the inside i could see was still in good shape. i sandblasted all of it and applied dp 40 from ppg. the next day did the necessary body work and primed over it. just make sure the underneath isn't pitted too.

By 12 guage I was refering to a shotgun meaning to start over with new...trying to be funny guess it wasnt. Thanks to JimmyP and MartinSR for the patch option. I didnt think that was Ok but my piece has a long rusted through gash. I will be forced to go with new I think.

Chris

[This message has been edited by chris71 (edited 02-14-2002).]