Just wondering if I can substitute a Lunati spring I found a decent deal on for a comp 929

Comp 929 dual
O.D/I.D 1.535/.755
Seat Pressure 150/1.880
Open pressure 434/1.230
Coil bind 1.180
Spring rate # 437

Lunati dual

O.D/I.D 1.530/.730
Seat Pressure 225/1.950
Open pressure 660/1.950
Coil bind 1.200

Can I use the Lunati's in place of the Comp's?

Thanks guys

Jeff

Just wondering if I can substitute a Lunati spring I found a decent deal on for a comp 929

Comp 929 dual
O.D/I.D 1.535/.755
Seat Pressure 150/1.880
Open pressure 434/1.230
Coil bind 1.180
Spring rate # 437

Lunati dual

O.D/I.D 1.530/.730
Seat Pressure 225/1.950
Open pressure 660/1.950
Coil bind 1.200

Can I use the Lunati's in place of the Comp's?

Thanks guys

Jeff
=
An application would help :sad:

Sorry, if I knew anything about this stuff I wouldn't have had to ask in the first place:D I figured if the springs are comparable that would be good, but here goes. ( And I know Mike you are going to cringe at this, but I don't have the money to replace it right now, and it's worked for 4 years so far)

454 +.060
10.3:1
GM 820 oval port heads that have had the combustion chambers cleaned up a bit
Comp Cams 288 solid roller (thats the part Mike)
288/288 244/244@.050 .622 lift 110/106
Comp cams roller lifters (even worse for you Mike)
1.7 roller rockers

What else do you need to know?

Thanks by the way;)

Jeff

Sorry, if I knew anything about this stuff I wouldn't have had to ask in the first place:D I figured if the springs are comparable that would be good, but here goes. ( And I know Mike you are going to cringe at this, but I don't have the money to replace it right now, and it's worked for 4 years so far)

454 +.060
10.3:1
GM 820 oval port heads that have had the combustion chambers cleaned up a bit
Comp Cams 288 solid roller (thats the part Mike)
288/288 244/244@.050 .622 lift 110/106
Comp cams roller lifters (even worse for you Mike)
1.7 roller rockers

What else do you need to know?

Thanks by the way;)

Jeff
=
Cam part number?
If it is the standard Magnum that ends in -8 it is a cast core & no you cannot use that spring,,, at least not for long,, :D
Anything more than about open 450 is a disaster on a cast core.

As far as Comp goes, I use a lot of their lobes, they have a ton of excellent ones but I only use billet cores.
I just do not use cast core rollers for anything,

you don't give the spring rate for the LUN spring. it could be figured out but you have the installed height and the open height the same at 1.950.

one is 150 on the seat the other is 225, those are not similar. Not always easy to get 1.950 installed height either.

any part number for the Lunati's?

Cast core with that cam will be done in a few minutes.

Cast core with that cam will be done in a few minutes with the Lunati springs.

Well unfortunately it is a -8 cast core cam. I built this engine about 4 years ago and had yet to find this site at that time, so I didn't know then.

So I guess now I am trying to figure out my options. I could replace the cam with a -9 billet core which would run me about $300, plus I still have to rebuild my heads. I can run the springs that comp recommends, and replace the cam in another year or so and only have to rebuild the heads. Or I could pull the cam and lifters all together and replace with a decent solid flat tappet and lifters and still rebuild my heads.

If you guys were on a tight budget, which way would you go? I am leaning towards just replacing the cam with a billet core. I can find a way to add $300 to my car budget for the year.

Do you think this will make for a more reliable engine? Or would I be better off just picking up a VooDoo Hydraulic flat tappet? Is their anyway I can make comparable power with a hydraulic or even solid flat tappet?

Sorry about all the questions, and thank you guys very much for your help.

Jeff

Are you in luck!!

Read what UDHarold e-mailed me below about a solid lifter copy of CC' great old 288AR solid street roller!!

"pdq67,

I've finally designed something, now I just have to make it......
A solid flat tappet replacement for the Comp Cams CB-288a-R10 their 11-692-8------
CB-288A-R10 288@.015 246@.050 158@.200 .622" valve lift 38-70-78-30
UDHarold's 285@.015 249@.050 161@.200 .618" valve lift 35-70-74-31

Their cam sells on their web site for $363.67, and the -8 in the part number means it IS NOT a steel billet. Lifters cost a good amount, too.
My cam will be a standard high-quality proferal cam--what solids have been made of for 30 years--and will cost around $168.75. Good Americian-made mechanical lifters are available at less than 25% the cost of solid roller lifters.
My cam stays .0176" away from the edge of the lifter, and I have had other cams that get closer to the edge go 100,000 miles on the street. The seating velocity is the same I have used on those 100,000 mile cams. Valve lash on mine is .018", on the Comp .020".
Because of changes in oil quality over the past 10 years, I would recommend using a lot of caution in breaking in ANY flat tappet solid or hydraulic cam.
The Comp Cams is symmetrical, mine, as always, is unsymmetrical. Look at the timing differences at .015"---My cam has a 4* longer power stroke, meaning more torque into your crank at ALL rpms, and a 3* later intake opening point, for less reversion and higher port velocities, again at ALL rpms.
At .050" and at .200", my cam is 3* fatter---Not only is it filling the cylinder faster, it has MORE time to do it.
The result---MORE POWER everywhere.
Now to get you guys some made......"

Harold said it use’s Chevy solid lifters too!

I'm gonna buy one onna these days too!!

pdq67

Are you in luck!!

Read what UDHarold e-mailed me below about a solid lifter copy of CC' great old 288AR solid street roller!!

"pdq67,

I've finally designed something, now I just have to make it......
A solid flat tappet replacement for the Comp Cams CB-288a-R10 their 11-692-8------
CB-288A-R10 288@.015 246@.050 158@.200 .622" valve lift 38-70-78-30
UDHarold's 285@.015 249@.050 161@.200 .618" valve lift 35-70-74-31

Their cam sells on their web site for $363.67, and the -8 in the part number means it IS NOT a steel billet. Lifters cost a good amount, too.
My cam will be a standard high-quality proferal cam--what solids have been made of for 30 years--and will cost around $168.75. Good Americian-made mechanical lifters are available at less than 25% the cost of solid roller lifters.
My cam stays .0176" away from the edge of the lifter, and I have had other cams that get closer to the edge go 100,000 miles on the street. The seating velocity is the same I have used on those 100,000 mile cams. Valve lash on mine is .018", on the Comp .020".
Because of changes in oil quality over the past 10 years, I would recommend using a lot of caution in breaking in ANY flat tappet solid or hydraulic cam.
The Comp Cams is symmetrical, mine, as always, is unsymmetrical. Look at the timing differences at .015"---My cam has a 4* longer power stroke, meaning more torque into your crank at ALL rpms, and a 3* later intake opening point, for less reversion and higher port velocities, again at ALL rpms.
At .050" and at .200", my cam is 3* fatter---Not only is it filling the cylinder faster, it has MORE time to do it.
The result---MORE POWER everywhere.
Now to get you guys some made......"

Harold said it use’s Chevy solid lifters too!

I'm gonna buy one onna these days too!!

pdq67


Wow, did he say when he would have these ready? That flat tappet is darn close to the roller I am using now:thumbsup:

Jeff

Although I would not consider running a solid roller with 150 lbs on the seat,,
Since the cam has worked for you for 4 years if it is still in good condition & the rollers seem ok I would just replace the springs for now with the 929's you had.
This is why the cam has lived but running 450 open on a roller in a BB or even a small block is not what I consider a real good plan.
As long as you are driving it like a diesel I guess it will work though :D

If you were happy with it & plan on upgrades in a year or so why throw a bunch of money at it at this time?

This is assuming you do not have the old Comp "endurnot" lifters which are another story all together.
Do you know what lifter you have? How many miles on them? Condition of the rollers & lobes?
I would be looking at everything before I made a decision.

As for Harold's flat tappet cam, last I heard I would not be holding my breath waiting for one :D

Although I would not consider running a solid roller with 150 lbs on the seat,,
Since the cam has worked for you for 4 years if it is still in good condition & the rollers seem ok I would just replace the springs for now with the 929's you had.
This is why the cam has lived but running 450 open on a roller in a BB or even a small block is not what I consider a real good plan.
As long as you are driving it like a diesel I guess it will work though :D

If you were happy with it & plan on upgrades in a year or so why throw a bunch of money at it at this time?

This is assuming you do not have the old Comp "endurnot" lifters which are another story all together.
Do you know what lifter you have? How many miles on them? Condition of the rollers & lobes?
I would be looking at everything before I made a decision.

As for Harold's flat tappet cam, last I heard I would not be holding my breath waiting for one :D

As for what I have now, yes:sad: they are the endure-x rollers. I built the engine in '03 so as far as whether they are an old design or whatever, you guys would know better than I.

As for the condition, it's like brand new, as well it should be, it has very few miles on it. Very few being under 1000 for sure, likely under 500 (I would have to go out and look at the car to be certain). Again, everything is as tight as the day it was put together.

Trust me, I don't want to come off as I am not listening to you guys, as that is not the case at all. It's mostly a matter of I am on a budget and want to do this right. Would I be alright replacing the comp cam with a billet core cam and replacing the lifters next year do you think or are the lifters more critical now. I am not completely attached to the roller anyways, I have read too many scarey things on here, so if I had to go flat tappet, I would consider it. Right now just about anything is going to be a huge improvement over what I had. The heads I sold were the 990's and they just started making power too high up, so now I have the oval ports going on to make power lower down and am just looking for some excellent street power. I originally built this engine with the intentions of drag racing and it never happened anyways, so I might as well be realistic with myself.

So I am probably asking for something you don't want to do Mike, but if you were on a budget, what would you do? Assuming I can't get that cam from Harold, what would you do to make the best power, yet stay somewhat reliable and budget oriented?

Sorry if I sound like an idiot:confused:

Jeff

As for what I have now, yes:sad: they are the endure-x rollers. I built the engine in '03 so as far as whether they are an old design or whatever, you guys would know better than I.

As for the condition, it's like brand new, as well it should be, it has very few miles on it. Very few being under 1000 for sure, likely under 500 (I would have to go out and look at the car to be certain). Again, everything is as tight as the day it was put together.

Trust me, I don't want to come off as I am not listening to you guys, as that is not the case at all. It's mostly a matter of I am on a budget and want to do this right. Would I be alright replacing the comp cam with a billet core cam and replacing the lifters next year do you think or are the lifters more critical now. I am not completely attached to the roller anyways, I have read too many scarey things on here, so if I had to go flat tappet, I would consider it. Right now just about anything is going to be a huge improvement over what I had. The heads I sold were the 990's and they just started making power too high up, so now I have the oval ports going on to make power lower down and am just looking for some excellent street power. I originally built this engine with the intentions of drag racing and it never happened anyways, so I might as well be realistic with myself.

So I am probably asking for something you don't want to do Mike, but if you were on a budget, what would you do? Assuming I can't get that cam from Harold, what would you do to make the best power, yet stay somewhat reliable and budget oriented?

Sorry if I sound like an idiot:confused:

Jeff
=
Yes you could replace the cam but you still could not upgrade the springs.
The lifters will not take any spring either.
I don't think they even sell that lifter anymore after they had enough of them in the field for customers to "test" :mad:
If you got ahold of a real tech at Comp even they did not recommend those.

So,,, you have to make a decision on what you want to do & how much you can afford to spend.

Probably the best scenario is a hyd roller but now you are looking at $800+
You don't seem to mind adjusting lifters on occasion or taking care of your engine so a solid flat tappet would be cool
You should call Harold & see if the cam mentioned is going to be available within the next Millennium :D
Or, there are a number of other flat tappet cams that will work very well, all depends on what works for you.. I can't answer that. :)

Try here to reach Harold!!

"I work for Custom Camshaft Company, a division of Arrington Manufacturing.
I stay at my house in Senatobia, MS, and telecommute to work in Martinsville Va. My office phone is 662-301-1245, and so far I'm having to take my wife to work, she's a Staff Accountant in Memphis, so I'm not here before 9:00 AM CST or from 4:00 PM to 6:00 PM CST. I answer the phone when it rings, and have sold several cams to Team Chevelle members."

Please say hello from old pdq67 for me..

pdq67

Try here to reach Harold!!

"I work for Custom Camshaft Company, a division of Arrington Manufacturing.
I stay at my house in Senatobia, MS, and telecommute to work in Martinsville Va. My office phone is 662-301-1245, and so far I'm having to take my wife to work, she's a Staff Accountant in Memphis, so I'm not here before 9:00 AM CST or from 4:00 PM to 6:00 PM CST. I answer the phone when it rings, and have sold several cams to Team Chevelle members."

Please say hello from old pdq67 for me..

pdq67


I will try that tomorrow, I sure appreciate the help, and I will tell him you say hello if I can reach him.

Thank you very much,

Jeff

This is why I am moving to bigger cube/long stroke motors with hyd roller cams for street use. Revs can stay under 6000, spring pressures come way down. I have that same cam here, but it was made on a billet core.