z-mans-67
May 1st, 03, 4:04 PM
Any suggestions on what to use to get rid of these? A light abrasive and a buffer? A good wax?
I don't wanna screw this up......please help!
I have some Turtle Wax-Rubbing Compound-Heavy duty Cleaner.
Is this only for badly weathered or oxidized paint?
How should I go about this......Details Please.
Thanx in advance.......
d1_bradley
May 1st, 03, 4:58 PM
Before I took a chance with a buffer and compound, I'd try a Mother's Claybar Kit. It took clear overspray off mine. Easy to use and GREAT results.
70_Malibu
May 2nd, 03, 9:06 PM
Claybars are good at taking off tar, sticky road crud and tree sap, but you can also scratch the paint with them if you're not careful. Your "water spots" can actually be etch marks in your paint. They're caused by standing water from acid rain.
You nailed it. I'd use a polisher and some light compound. I've always used 3M products. #3 Machine Glaze(brownish grey). Cover your wipers and anything else that might get spattered to save yourself some clean up time. Use a wool buffing pad. Work on small areas at a time. The trick is to heat up the paint a bit using plenty of compound to "blend" surrounding paint into the scratches. Feather the trigger, or use a slower speed if using a variable speed polisher. Apply a bit of pressure but don't lean into it. Let the machine do the work. DON'T STAY ON THE SAME SPOT TOO LONG OR YOU'LL BURN THE PAINT! Clean your pad often by jamming a screwdriver in it and running the polisher. You'll probably end up with swirl marks after you get the scratches out. Switch to a new pad when finished and use a lighter compound -a swirl remover- lightly... then an orbital buffer - same compound... then a hand glaze swirl remover if needed. Finally, wax it to a shine! Spread compounds thick when buffing. Wipe a spot clean with a soft cloth periodically to assess your progress at each stage. Wipe off areas entirely at each completed stage so you're using "pure" compound. You can make deeper scratches look better, but if your fingernail hangs up on one, it's pretty much there to stay. ***Big piece of advice also... pretend that your paint is THIN. Absolutely do not keep thinking, "a little more grinding" for more than 3 attemps at a spot. You can run out of paint fast!! If you do, you're hosed!!!*** Maybe try to develop a touch on another car before you hit the 'Velle. You can get the products at an auto body supply store. Stuff ain't cheap! About $12/qt.
It's hard for me to really give any better advice without seeing damage 1st hand. I used to detail cars for a few years. Matter of fact, I did a couple of Tommy Thompson's cars when he was governor of our fine state... a black Park Ave, and a Roadmaster (worked for a Buick dealer) along with MANY other cars. (Black sucks!!) It does take a touch with a polisher... you can do some serious damage if you're not careful.
Maybe some other guys can share other products they've used... I've found these 4 stages to work best.
1. Polisher - Cut. Grind out the imperfections. Wool pad.
2. Polisher - Get the swirls finer. Wool pad/foam pad.
3. Orbital - Get the swirls finer yet, or gone all together. Foam/terry cloth pad
4. By hand - Swirl remover, and wax. Clean soft, rag.
If you didn't have to grind hard, you can usually skip #2.
Like sanding!
Hope this helps & good luck Z-man!! Sweet Car!! graemlins/thumbsup.gif
P.S. I will not be held liable for any damages incurred by this advice! :D
70_Malibu
May 3rd, 03, 11:34 PM
TTT
Just because I'm proud of my novel. Detailing is an art. Any questions, e-mail me...
I'd rather know how to tolerence a big block, but hey, you do what you can.... smile.gif
z-mans-67
May 3rd, 03, 11:36 PM
I asked for details and, wow, I sure got 'em.
Thanks!!