What a catchy title, right?

Playing around today I looked up at the underside of the package tray (if that's the right term on an elky) and saw this:

http://www.derekf.com/images/03290307.jpg

I can't see these holes from above. It looks like they might be right under the bottom edge of the windowglass or possibly on the inside-edge of it. I didn't do the goop next to the rust, that's been there.

Since this car is a driver and I don't have the garage space to pull it in and pull out the back window right now, would it be safe to fill these holes with seam sealer so water stops puddling on the floorboard back there? (I'm assuming this is where the water is coming from, anyway) Or would that just cause lots of other problems? I don't expect to be at a position where I can pull the back window and weld in new metal for another year or so. Would there be something better (other than metal) to fill these holes with for now? I know none of these shortcuts are the right thing to do... but shortcut or ignore are the current options and "ignore" really sucks.

Man,
This is one of those area where a temp fix is likely to be a worse fix.

If you do not wanna weld in new metal, I have used POR + POR Epoxy putty and it almost as good as new metal. It won't rust more and you should be able to keep it from leaking!

FLOOR PAN & TRUNK RESTO KIT
http://www.por15.com/restorationkits.html

You need to remove all the other temp fixes (silicone, bondo, etc...), wire wheel as rust surface rust as you can, then follow the directions for application of the POR and putty. The putty, after mixing, ;) can be smoothed with water while it's setting up. I have used this stuff and it really holds up.

I'll second that, used it on my sisters Camaro and it worked great. The car lives in western Washington and even the moisture there hasn't been able to compromise the repair.

Thanks, y'all.

I'm starting to lean towards doing this properly, if it can be done in a day or so (I've already pulled the seats and carpet out, which is what started this whole process).

How involved is this repair? My guess is that it's just (check out the "LIST" feature, heh)
</font> Remove rear glass trim and rear glass</font> Cut out the rusted area</font> Weld in new metal and grind welds</font> Coat with some sort of primer</font> Replace rear glass, rear glass seal, and rear glass trim.</font>
I've done all of these on different areas except replace the rear glass - how hard is it to get it to seal - is rear glass a task best left to professionals?

Derekf,
You would want to paint after the primer as well, because primer is not moisture-proof, and you'll get the rust all over again. Other than that, just use a new rear seal (if it's a seal and not urethane adhesive, which is used for the windshield; although this may make a better alternative since it can fill in wavy areas and take up tolerances that a seal may not be able to).
I'm a chemical engineer for the company that makes all the OEM windshield adhesive, so I gotta pitch the products! :D

Crankshaft