Anybody out there shaved handles before? I am curious of any info on the solenoids, I know there are different strength ones, and was curious if anyone has had any bad problems by doing this. If you possibly know a good place to get the parts that would be a huge help also, or even a good company name to search for. Thanks for all answers and opinions!!

I got mine from Summit Racing. The only problem I had was with one of the solenoids breaking. The kit came with 15lb. solenoids which had a plastic "nose" on them. The plastic is the part that broke on one of mine without much use. I called Summit again and ordered the "Super Solenoids" which are rated at 45lb. and are all steel. No problem since. Mine are made by VPA. Hope this helps.

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Rob F.
TC #312
68' SS396 6-spd Pro Touring Elky
My EC (http://home.earthlink.net/~usass396)

[This message has been edited by Rob F (edited 06-16-2002).]

I removed the door handles on my 67 and learned a trick from another user. I tried the heaviest door pull solenoids made and they wouldn't budge the rod to open the door. I replaced the rod with a cable assembly and hooked the solenoid into the cable. That way, the solenoid only pulls the rear latch and doesn't mess with the door handle mechanism at all.

Check here (http://www.dalesplace.com/images/chevelle/door_pull1.jpg) to see what I mean. Not visible is the solenoid but it's connected via a cable a little further back and only operates the latch. When I need to use the inside handle it still works as normal. I bought the cable and cable clamps at my local hardware store...I think it's either 1/8" or 3/16" stranded cable.

Something to think about... Completely disable the door locking rod. It's less the solenoid has to pull on and what's the point of locking the door anyway with the outside handles gone? I would also put an emergency "switch" under the hood somewhere. You will (not might) leave the keys in the car and the windows up at some point in time...like getting out to get gas when it's raining. Been there, done that. The underhood switch was a life saver http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif



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TC Gold #92/ACES #1709
67 SS & 67 Elky
GR8PMKN (http://www.dalesplace.com/images/chevelle/more_pics/p001182.jpg)

Dale's Place (http://www.dalesplace.com) Team 67 (http://www.team67.com)
Midwest Chevelle Regional Governing Council (http://www.midwestchevelles.com)
Integrity: If you have it, it doesn't matter - If you don't have it, it doesn't matter.

I've done this several times on guys custom cars and street rods and use Ball's openers. These work either push or pull. Most often use magnetic micro switches instead of the usual push button under the rocker panel. Pick up a copy of Street Rodder magazine and will find several vendors for different types of openers.

Thanks for the info guys, it helps alot, I should be ordering them any day now!!

Dale I was looking at your picture of the cable. Nice idea and I was thinking instead of using those bulky u-clamps why not get some barrel crimp connectors. Ones that are for a heaver gauge wire and feed the wire through them and then crimp them down. Would be a nice finish but removal would obviously require you to cut the cable and install a new piece.

BTW how is Lawton these days I was near there in at the end of the 80's for basic training/AIT. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif BOOM BOOM all day long.



[This message has been edited by 72SS454Chevelle (edited 06-21-2002).]