I need some help regarding the body prep process. I have the opportunity to work along side the body man when my car is being prepared for painting. So that I can better understand what is happening and why, please help me by confirming if my understanding of the correct body prep process is as follows:

1) remove existing paint with DA - 80 grit.
2) immediately prime bare metal with self etching primer.
3) allow etch primer to dry overnite.
4) apply first coat of epoxy primer
5) allow epoxy primer to dry for 2-3 days
6) block sand car
7) use body filler where neccesary
8) aplly second coat of epoxy primer
9) allow to dry for 2-3 days
10) block sand car agin for final prep
11) have car painted

Are these the correct steps?
Are the steps in the correct sequence?
Did I miss any steps?

I would appreciate your help & expertise.
Thnaks.
Jeff

Using the da to remove paint is fine...how about paint stripped? Use the stripper first then follow up with the 80 grit.

Most apply the filler over the bare metal get it straight and then use the etch primer. If you wait longer then 24 hours to recoat the etch primer you must scuff it up and reapply it, so wait only an hour then apply the next product.

Expoy primer doesnt have the film build needed to make the body straight so you need what is called a primer surfacer, or 2K primer. You apply this after the etch, apply three to four coats of this primer. Let the 2K cure and fully shrink, wait a few days the longer the better. If you dont wait and sand the primer right away, you sand it smooth and later it shrinks down and becomes wavy again.

Use a long board or anything else that mathces the contour of the panel, radiator hose to pvc pipe. The first round of blocking I like to go with 80 grit on the long board, knocks down the primer fast and tells me where my high and low spots are...do they need work to get them flat. Sand til all the high spots are found, if need be gently tap them down with a hammer. Now apply etch primer to any bare metal showing, then another round of 2K primer. Now I use 180 grit and sand til the high are found this time less high and low spots should be found. Apply etch primer to any bare spots and then 2K primer, then I use 180 again and recoat with 2K and sand again.

Now you do what I call color sanding, if your car is going to be red you want the primer to be of a red tint. That way if you get a rock chip it wont be noticeable. Primer can be tinted to a certain percent you want to tint it with your final color.
Apply this new tinted primer and let it cure this time for around two weeks or more. Wet sand with 500 grit, depending on how straight the car is apply another round if needed. Wet sand again with 500 grit.

I might do it differently then others but but just remember that the prep work is 90 precent or more of the paint job. If the prep work is bad the final paint job will look bad.

You can also apply filler over an expoy primer like PPG's DP 40, just make sure that the expoy is recommeded for this. If you go this way apply the etch primer then expoy primer and let it sit for a day or two. Come back a sand the areas that needed the filler with 80 grit and apply the filler.

Thanks for the input, it was very helpful - there is clearly more than one way to do this job. Any other opinions or thoughts from others? <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by sevt_chevelle:
Using the da to remove paint is fine...how about paint stripped? Use the stripper first then follow up with the 80 grit.

Most apply the filler over the bare metal get it straight and then use the etch primer. If you wait longer then 24 hours to recoat the etch primer you must scuff it up and reapply it, so wait only an hour then apply the next product.

Expoy primer doesnt have the film build needed to make the body straight so you need what is called a primer surfacer, or 2K primer. You apply this after the etch, apply three to four coats of this primer. Let the 2K cure and fully shrink, wait a few days the longer the better. If you dont wait and sand the primer right away, you sand it smooth and later it shrinks down and becomes wavy again.

Use a long board or anything else that mathces the contour of the panel, radiator hose to pvc pipe. The first round of blocking I like to go with 80 grit on the long board, knocks down the primer fast and tells me where my high and low spots are...do they need work to get them flat. Sand til all the high spots are found, if need be gently tap them down with a hammer. Now apply etch primer to any bare metal showing, then another round of 2K primer. Now I use 180 grit and sand til the high are found this time less high and low spots should be found. Apply etch primer to any bare spots and then 2K primer, then I use 180 again and recoat with 2K and sand again.

Now you do what I call color sanding, if your car is going to be red you want the primer to be of a red tint. That way if you get a rock chip it wont be noticeable. Primer can be tinted to a certain percent you want to tint it with your final color.
Apply this new tinted primer and let it cure this time for around two weeks or more. Wet sand with 500 grit, depending on how straight the car is apply another round if needed. Wet sand again with 500 grit.

I might do it differently then others but but just remember that the prep work is 90 precent or more of the paint job. If the prep work is bad the final paint job will look bad.

You can also apply filler over an expoy primer like PPG's DP 40, just make sure that the expoy is recommeded for this. If you go this way apply the etch primer then expoy primer and let it sit for a day or two. Come back a sand the areas that needed the filler with 80 grit and apply the filler.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>