I have found sound dampener for application to inside of my door skin. It comes in pieces, such as 12"x12" each. If my door is 4 feet by 2 feet, how many one square foot pieces should I stick on to effectively deaden sound? I hope it is not necessary to cover the entire inner skin, as the pieces are fairly expensive. Also, a much cheaper product of a somewhat similar nature appears to be roofing membrane, for ice and snow, comes in 3 foot wide rools and is very sticky once the membrane is peeled off. Anyone ever use this as sound dampener? It is about one quarter the price of the autobody supply store product I say today.

Two in the center of the door should be plenty. The concept is to reduce resonance. Additional material at outer edges is of little value. There are many deadener type materials out there. Saw some posts here a couple of months ago. The roofing paper idea will probably work quite well. The watershield type, doubled up. In the 60"s we used to use a brush on tar type undercoat, layered with a perforated packing paper that parts came in, didn't have all these neat products. Factory stuff was about 1/4 inch thick and extended from style line to style line on 64 thru 67. Tapered off toward end of panels.
Karl

Go to Mcmaster (http://www.mcmaster.com) and type in 9709t19 into the search box. It is called Polymeric Mastic. This is the same thing as dynamat, without the name and MUCH cheaper. Used it on my 65.

Tim

thanks TimG. I looked at their website. Product seems correct at a huge saving over dynamat. I will likely go this route, as the roofing weathershield membrane is only sold here in rolls that are 3 feet wide by 60 feet long, for about 80 to 100 bucks. Too much product for one car.

On the McMaster Carr page it has a DLF rating for the product. Does anyone know what that stands for?

I used Vmax from Cascade Audio in the doors and roof. Its awesome. Its much different then Dynomat. Vmax is like a thin layer of gum with a thin layer of aluminum over the top of it. This stuff will never come off. In the doors a used a long strip just below the top, over the center brace. I then put another long strip below the center brace.

Andrew

Try www.b-quiet.com. (http://www.b-quiet.com.) Dynomat quality stuff but way cheaper.

Try www.b-quiet.com. (http://www.b-quiet.com.) Dynomat quality stuff but way cheaper.

Originally posted by airrj:
On the McMaster Carr page it has a DLF rating for the product. Does anyone know what that stands for? Probably has something to do with decible level especially if it's in the 25 - 45 range.

graemlins/beers.gif

I used Peel&Seal on my '02 Z28, for $90 I did the entire interior, with a triple layer on the rear deck (major exhaust resonance area in that car). You can get it in big rolls at a roofing supply place.

DLF - Dampening Loss Factor, the greater the number, the greater the ability to dampen vibration.
__Straight out of the McMaster Carr catalog.

Originally posted by red68chevL:
__Straight out of the McMaster Carr catalog. graemlins/clonk.gif If I only had a living Brain graemlins/clonk.gif

Thanks.

For what it is worth, and I'm no expert, but one of the problems with Astres, Vegas, Volaires and a plethora of other cars from the early 70s was insulation holding moisture and eventually rotting out panels. Just my 2¢ - not much considering it's Canadian graemlins/clonk.gif