How are the kickpanels on a 72 chevelle removed, I can see a few screws and know about the door sill and windshield pillar. How are the cables connected? they go thru the kickpanels, tried to twist off the knobs, but to no avail. Any help ?

Martin,
Non AC kick panels:

You have to pull the oval shaped grille off the kick panels. I always use a small flat blade screwdriver and pry between the grille and the panel. It snaps out. There are 4 to 6 sheet metal screws with 5/16 heads holding the panel around the parameter of the grille opening.

One of the cables (top cable) attaches to the dash vent. You will have to remove a small clamp on the body and unhook the cable from the vent. The other cable (lower) is part of the panel itself. The kick panel has sealer between the panel and body at the oval vent opening. It will take some pulling the get the sealant to release.

The passenger side is a snap. The drivers side will require the removal of the parking brake pedal assembly and loosening of the fuse box at the firewall.

Once the panels are off you should check the cables for damage or if there broken. I have used heat shrink tube on cable housings that have many cracks. This holds the pieces together.

If all the cables are good, remove each cable, one at a time. Use a wire cutter or side cutters and cut the knob off the cable. It is best to come off using small cuts (it was pressed on).

Once the knob is off you can install new knobs. I use adhesive as a lubricant. Clamp the metal portion of the cable in a vise, just below the existing knob. I use a wooden screwdriver handle to tap the new knobs on. Too much force can crack the new knobs.

Good instructions, Ed! Only thing I would add is that you have to remove the glove box to be able to remove and reinstall the cable on the vent arm. I just did the passenger side on my '69, but wasn't sure about what needs to be removed on the driver side. I appreciate the info! :thumbsup:

BTW: The dash vent cable housing on mine was cracked into several pieces. It makes a 90 degree bend between the knob and the vent, and I guess an old and brittle wire will eventually just snap. A new one is probably a better choice than a "good", used one. I'm too cheap to spend $35-40 on a repro cable so I made a new one, using housing from the bicycle store (Teflon lined, no less ;) ), and wire from a small engine shop. I have posted some info on how I did this here (http://www.chevythunder.net/showthread.php?t=981).