Well, I took all the seats out, the carpet, and sound deadener. Still need to get the door panels, and kick panels off. Not sure how to get the window cranks off.

Anyway, Lets start up front. The upper toe pans look good, however on the pass side the seem that runs up to the firewall is seperated. The seam across the toe pan to floor pan area is rusted through in multiple spots. There are various holes above the end of each floor pan brace end. So I need new braces for sure now. 2 holes in the back seat foot areas, in the middle that extend about 3/4 of the way up the tunnel on each side. I layed the new floor over the hold and they fit well, and covered all the rust BUT it doesn't look like the the rocker area extends far enough over to the rocker. The pass side is what I'm worried about, as I need an inner rocker and maybe an outter too for the pass side. Drivers side is ok. Drivers toe pan looks to be considerably less rusty than the pass side. The tunnel is fine, except for one spot where the middle seatbelt was bolted.

Now we get to the under the rear seat pan. Where do I start? 2/3s of it no longer exists. The middle 1/3 of it is still there but the rest is GONE! The hump towards the front of it is there and cherry. The middle is Cherry but the sides are just not there! There is one spot that there is rust that goes under the diveder onto the trunk shelf. So now I am going to learn to weld and put in new metal. I look to have the floors in by the end of summer and the frame swapped. Wish me luck

When installing floor pan braces, I will lift the body...BUT can I cut out the floors (one side at a time) and leave the area the brace is welded to to see if it fits propperly?

That enough for now. I
l'll post more later

Thanks guys graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Not sure how to get the window cranks off. There's a jiffy little tool you need that removes the wire clip from behind the window crank, then the crank should pull right off the splines.


The tool should be available at any parts store and definitely at your local Sears.

I just use a spring hook to get the spring clip off. You could use coat hanger with a small loop fashioned on one end to get it off. For installation put the clip back on, line up the crank and push it back on.

You will find that you often don't use an entire repair panel. They are relatively cheap. So its better to be looking at it than looking for it...when it come to material buy the bigger panels.... :cool:

Here's another vote for using the spring clip remover.

And a tip. Go at the clip from the exact opposite side from the handle. Meaning that if the handle is pointing to 9 o'clock, stick the removal tool onto the spring at 3 o'clock. It will push the spring open, but leave it on the handle. Then the handle just pulls off easy.

The tool I got is supposed to help push the clip back on, too. I found that a skinny, long handled flat blade screw driver worked better.

I did the same thing to my car today. Your floors sound worse than mine, but mine aren't great. Big hole on driver's side right where your feet go (complete w/ cheesy patch riveted in). Smaller holes on both sides in back seat area.

Trunk has some pinholes as well...

Yenko why dont you send me some pics and we'll see what we can do for this car

hey, no need for the tool, take a paperclip and bend it into a hook and pull out the clip

AND FOR ALL YOU GEARHEADS.....coming from a relatively new gearhead...you DONT need to do anything to get it back on, you can put the clip on the handle or crank BEFORE you put it on, and just slide it on...!!!!
Jon