I have the notorious wheel-hop problem on our '67 Chevelle. I am taking it in to get the rear differential bearings replaced and the pinion seal replaced. I was considering two things:
1. To have the rear control arm bushings replaced.
2. To have some Anti Hop bars installed.

I called Original Parts Group and they said these were bolt on, no welding required. Can you give me your opinion on if they would be worth getting and if you have used these or something similar, please? I'd like to know how hard they would be to "bolt on".
http://www.opgi.com/product.asp?ProdCode=CH22064&topcatid=28&grpcode=25637&yearrange=&chapterid=798&topvalue=

Thanks again. :thumbsup:

I had a set of these (Mr Gasket brand but identical) about 20+ years ago. They worked like a charm on my 71. FYI - One issue to note - you have to drill through the webbing on the front of the pumkin to run a bolt into no hop bars.

Another option is to get the a$$-end down so the pinion angle isn't out of wack but some people don't like the low slung look. I've come to like it in my old age...

If you use adjustable upper control arms can't you accomplish the same thing as using the no-hops. As long as you change the angle isn't that all that matters. Then you don't have to mess with drilling the webbing it seems like it would be especially challenging with the rear in the car.

I have them on my 67 see signature. Tried everything to help control the wheel hop, new shocks, Hotchkiss boxed control arms, Edelbrock adjustable upper control arms and so forth. Installed set of no-hops that were purchased 30 years ago by friend of mine and never used. NO WHEEL HOP anymore. They work great. Yes you have to drill a 5/16-3/8 hole in each side in the web of the pumpkin, but was easy to do. The only drawback is that you can't remove the drain/fill plug in the rear because it is blocked by the no-hop bar. Just change the rear lube out before installing the no-hop so it will be fresh and drive on down the road with the tires spinning.

Bought the Lakewood anti-hops from Summit. Going to install them in about 2 weeks........ If you search the site, everyone who put them on eliminated the hop.

No-hop bars...I just took mine OFF and sold them. ;)
Free,
I suggest first changing out all the rear control arm bushings (all 8-uppers & lowers) and see where you are then with wheel hop on your car.
It needs to be done first regardless of your future plans on installing no-hops.

Lower the car an inch, and it will go away.

Pinion angle has absolutely no effect on wheelhop. The lengths and angles of the control arms are what determine whether it will hop or not.

Thank you for all the replies so far.:)

Try poly bushings...like wild bill says if he meant poly...upper and lower arms...should be done anyway.....before you put what I believe to be ugly track bars.
Worked wonders for me in a 69 with an ls6 in it years back.
The claws look OK from the Original parts group and they cannot be seen...a good thing......they grab onto the diff. The design has been around for a long time...just not as popular.

Try poly bushings...Inducing bind is not the way to cure wheelhop. :noway:

I've found that getting the rear end down low, eliminates wheel hop. Our L72 powered Chevelle never had a hint of wheel hop in almost 200K miles of driving. We've had two L78 powered Chevelles and a 455 powered Lemans that all sat about 1.5" higher and they all wheel hopped. Good way to ruin some expensive drivetrain parts. The car sitting low handles and rides better as well. It's as simple as installing the right springs. Worked for us.

Try poly bushings...like wild bill says if he meant poly...upper and lower arms...should be done anyway.....

I definately did NOT mean poly bushings. Stock rubber will be fine unless the budget can stand aftermarket moly control arms with johnny joints or heim rod ends.

I have the Lakewood no-hop traction bars on my 69 ElCamino SS. Wheel hop gone I also changed the rear cover that had a fill and drain plug. You can't see the traction bars at all.

No-hop bars...I just took mine OFF and sold them. ;)
Free,
I suggest first changing out all the rear control arm bushings (all 8-uppers & lowers) and see where you are then with wheel hop on your car.
It needs to be done first regardless of your future plans on installing no-hops.
Bill, thanks for the info.

I just called my transmission guy. It just so happens we are taking our car in to get all the rear differential bearings replaced and the pinion seal done. I asked him if he could change out those eight bushings. He said no problem, so I will get them ordered and have him install, then see where things are at.

For those interested, here is the link to the bushings from Original Parts Group. Cost is $12.95 each. You need eight total.
http://www.opgi.com/product.asp?ProdCode=MC12219&topcatid=28&grpcode=34506&yearrange=&chapterid=794&topvalue=
:clonk:

Now you're on the right track! :thumbsup:
Does your '67 have a rear sway bar? If not, now is the perfect time to purchase a lower control arm (LCA) boxing kit (less than $35) and a rear sway bar (around $100). :cool: Have it all installed while the control arms are being rebushed.

This mentions using steel plate to box the arms...
http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref16.html

But, using the boxing kits look better...exactly like factory...
http://www.opgi.com/product.asp?ProdCode=RCAI001&topcatid=28&grpcode=14889&yearrange=&chapterid=796&topvalue=

Now you're on the right track! :thumbsup:
Does your '67 have a rear sway bar? If not, now is the perfect time to purchase a lower control arm (LCA) boxing kit (less than $35) and a rear sway bar (around $100). :cool: Have it all installed while the control arms are being rebushed.

This mentions using steel plate to box the arms...
http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref16.html

But, using the boxing kits look better...exactly like factory...
http://www.opgi.com/product.asp?ProdCode=RCAI001&topcatid=28&grpcode=14889&yearrange=&chapterid=796&topvalue=
I do not have a rear anti-sway bar and box kit. Any chance you could link up the items I would need from Original Parts Group or similar?

Also, what will this anti-sway kit do for me exactly?

Thanks again!

You can get the 'Chevy' sway bar from gmpartsdirect.com Part number 394926. I have a new one going in soon. No bolts or shims though. I got those from GU separately Part number NPX-911.

If you are installing a Lakewood Anti-hop, you don't need the 2 bushings for the top of the carrier. That system has a poly bushing attached with a grease fitting. I have new rubbers and I have to remove the top 2 now and toss them.......