I want to build this engine from chevyhighperformance. It seems to be a good inexpensive streetable powerhouse. Unless you guys think otherwise...

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/6113_chevrolet_406_ci_small_block_build/

They used a 2 bolt block. My questions are where should I get a block, seems online is the only place I can find one. Im going to contact CNCBLOCKSNORTHEAST and see what he has to say, he sounds pretty darn knowledgeable.

1. So should I get a 2 or 4 bolt block?

2. Where should I get it?

3. Should I buy one that needs machining? Would this be cheaper/better? Or should I get one already done?

4. Whether I get it already machined or needing machining, what needs to have been done to it? I know I need 30 over bore. Do I need align honing? Decking? Any other machining processes?

Thanks for your help guys, this will be my first engine build. :hurray:

Lots of variables in your question, the biggest is what have you come across and what is your schedule?

For instance if you don't know any good machinists you might be just as well off buying a block that's already machined (since you don't know if your guy or their guy does better work). By getting a machined block you may also have the opportunity to get it cheaper if it is a project someone else gave up on after they spent the money on machining.

If you do know a good machinist and trust them more than anyone then naturally it makes sense to find a virgin block and hire them to do it. I know a good machinist and that's the way I'd do it.

I suppose I ought to look at the chp link first but I've always heard the 2-bolt 400s have better main webs than 4-bolts. Depends on ultimate output and rpm range I suppose. A mild engine should be fine with either stock 2 or 4 bolt; a stronger one with 2 bolt, stronger yet and 2 bolt w/splayed caps or aftermarket would be the way to go.

Don't be too sure about needing a .030" overbore. On 400s the cylinder wall thickness is none too great and leaving as much metal as possible in there can only help. If it cleans up at .020 then great. I'd rather have the stable wall than that tiny extra bit of displacement.

I personally like to have blocks decked and torque plate honed; the factory didn't do the greatest job of blueprinting.

Why not go with an aftermarket block? I know its pricey but after all the labor is done to a "used seasoned" block you could have a sweet new 400 that will last waaaaaaay longer through alot more too.

Thats my plan anyways.:yes:

thanks for the info, good to have. I know of no good machinists. I havent come across anything, and I would like to have the machined block in hand by mid May.

Why not go with an aftermarket block? I know its pricey but after all the labor is done to a "used seasoned" block you could have a sweet new 400 that will last waaaaaaay longer through alot more too.

Thats my plan anyways.:yes:

Ill look into it, sounds a little pricey though. How much would I be into a seasoned machined block? about $700-1000?

Why not go with an aftermarket block? I know its pricey but after all the labor is done to a "used seasoned" block you could have a sweet new 400 that will last waaaaaaay longer through alot more too.

Thats my plan anyways.:yes:


How much are the aftermarket machined 400 blocks?

I bet you could find a 400 in the Seattle area along with a good machinist.

In about 10 seconds I found these :

http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/270954228.html
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/pts/268674657.html

For the machinist, take a trip to the test and tune runs this spring and see who those folks are using. be advised your are encroaching on the beginning of race season and most shops are going to get busy from here on out. At least that is how is usually works around here. Good Luck :)

I want to build this engine from chevyhighperformance. It seems to be a good inexpensive streetable powerhouse. Unless you guys think otherwise...

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/6113_chevrolet_406_ci_small_block_build/

They used a 2 bolt block. My questions are where should I get a block, seems online is the only place I can find one. Im going to contact CNCBLOCKSNORTHEAST and see what he has to say, he sounds pretty darn knowledgeable.

1. So should I get a 2 or 4 bolt block?

2. Where should I get it?

3. Should I buy one that needs machining? Would this be cheaper/better? Or should I get one already done?

4. Whether I get it already machined or needing machining, what needs to have been done to it? I know I need 30 over bore. Do I need align honing? Decking? Any other machining processes?

Thanks for your help guys, this will be my first engine build. :hurray:

Brett

I got your email last night and I don't have any good 400 blocks in the shop, The ones I have the cylinder walls are not good on VERY THIN

The customers went with the Dart Sportsman block all machined for 2395.00 and shipped free.

Brett

I got your email last night and I don't have any good 400 blocks in the shop, The ones I have the cylinder walls are not good on VERY THIN

The customers went with the Dart Sportsman block all machined for 2395.00 and shipped free.


Ok, well thanks for checking. Im sure the Dart block is nice, but $2400 is alot of money. I think its weird you found those 2 on craigslist. I looked but didnt see those. I must have searched for the wrong thing. Thanks guys, I will show some links of some ebay ones that are already machined, see what you guys think.

I asked about your schedule because if it isn't something pressing you could scour the classifieds, swap meets, scrap yards, bulletin boards, put out the word to the guys in the local car club, etc. and possibly fall into a decent deal.

This article is not particularly new information------------------BUT IT IS GOOD,VALID information!
I took a look at the article and read much of it. The engine they built in the article is nearly identical to how I build SB400s. The most recent is the one for the boat. There are a couple of variations, but for the most part, their 400 and my 400s are built very close to the same. My point is that this type of a 400 buildup will result in a dependable, very nice performing engine with plenty of torque.
The two major differences between the CHP buildup and the one I just finished in the boat is that I stepped up to a little bigger profile cam (mine-.525/.533 lift, theirs-.507/.510 lift which is the cam that I previously had), single plane intake and added .100 stroke to mine for a total of 420 cubic inches. I did use main studs instead of bolts. I haven't tested it on the water yet, but on the trailer, it sure sounds strong! I ran my specs through a computer dyno program and came up with very similar results that CHP achieved on the dyno.
My buildups have been trial and error with no dyno testing. Theirs was tested on the dyno, which just happens to confirm that this is a good combination for a healthy street performance engine without breaking the bank. Which is also one of the main things that I've always advocated about building a SB400----------------------that is, if you're not careful, you can get into the 454 price range real quick! Keep it simple, keep it economical and you end up with a VERY nice 400+cubic inch engine.
AND, the good part is that if your car is a SB car to start with, EVERYTHING just falls right into place without having to be out the added expense of rounding up all the parts to convert over to a BB. This is really nice when you have accessories such as air cond to bolt back onto the engine!

I built a simular 406 for my 65 Chevelle. Lots of torque and a real tire burner. I used different heads and dished pistons to avoid detonation but otherwise the build up was the same.

Anyway, I looked around until I found a seasoned 2 bolt 400 block. Make sure the block is a standard bore block.

You should be able to find one for $150-350. Take the block to a trusted machinist and have it hot tanked and checked for any defects. If all is good have him do the machine work and or assembly. Then drop it in your ride and stock up on rear tires.

later

Cool guys, you are all getting me very excited to find a block and get to work. Im a little nervous about my first buildup, but I have some excellent books and an older more experienced friend to help me along the way. Hes old school but has probably built more engines than I could ever imagine. His favorite cars of mine are his De Tomaso Pantera. He got it from a government drug seizure aution in Canada for pretty cheap. Has a very nice built 351 Cleveland. My other favorite is his fiberglass 65 GTO drag car with a pontiac 400 bored to something crazy, cant remember. He said he hasnt driven it in 10 years, however its not street legal. He also converts older Jags to chevy small block cars. The V12's are supposed to be real paperweights, except they weigh about 100 lbs more than a small block. He has a 400 already built just sitting on a stand, I dont think I can convince him to fork it over for a donation though.

I asked about your schedule because if it isn't something pressing you could scour the classifieds, swap meets, scrap yards, bulletin boards, put out the word to the guys in the local car club, etc. and possibly fall into a decent deal.

This is why I asked early, hoping to maybe score a good deal. Thanks again guys. :beers:

Does everyone agree just bore enough to clean up? Or should I automatically go to 30 over?

If it will clean up at .020 over, AND, you can get the desired pistons, then just go for boring it .020. That will leave a little left for a possible future rebuild, AND, keep the cylinder walls as thick as possible.
ALSO, build it with the longer 350 rods (5.7). EVERYONE now makes pistons for the normal shorter 400 rod (5.565) as well as the 350 rod. Also, keep in mind that all of this advice is for building a very nice street performance SB400---------------------NOT a King Kong killer full on race engine!!! That becomes a whole new ball game.

Just my opinion, these questions are the ones you should ask the machinist, first order is to find a qualified machinist. You could look in the website for machinists or as suggested above, go to the track and to shows and other events/cruises.

Just my opinion, these questions are the ones you should ask the machinist, first order is to find a qualified machinist. You could look in the website for machinists or as suggested above, go to the track and to shows and other events/cruises.

Yep, that's absolutely correct, especially if you ask the machinist that is also the one you plan to use.

Hope you guys dont mind, but I'm going to start a new thread to see if anyone knows any good machinists in my area.