New U-Joints - How Tight Should They Feel [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: New U-Joints - How Tight Should They Feel


leejoy
Jan 25th, 07, 9:29 PM
Hey guys

Need a little advice here.

I just installed new U-Joints on my 72 Chevy. They were a little harder than I expected to remove and install. Anyways, they seem kind of tight, meaning when I try to move them around with my hands, some joints feel noticeably looser than the other ones. Some are kind of tight

Is that ok? How tight is too tight?

should they move freely and easily or is there supposed to be some noticeable resistance?

and yes, I greased them. It did not make a difference.

thanks

Lee

charbilly2001
Jan 25th, 07, 9:43 PM
Heres what I do to get everything centered/seated and get rid of that bound up feeling. I take my impact hammer and give the driveshaft a sharp rap on the weld at the end of the shaft ( this applies to the yoke end only). I turn the shaft 90* and do it again. For the diff end one rap does the trick.

That always does the trick for me. Basically you do that and you've seated everything and all is well.

leejoy
Jan 25th, 07, 10:14 PM
Heres what I do to get everything centered/seated and get rid of that bound up feeling. I take my impact hammer and give the driveshaft a sharp rap on the weld at the end of the shaft ( this applies to the yoke end only). I turn the shaft 90* and do it again. For the diff end one rap does the trick.

That always does the trick for me. Basically you do that and you've seated everything and all is well.

I tried that already - no improvement. I'll wack it a few more times.

So they should move easily then right?

Rich-L79
Jan 25th, 07, 11:58 PM
So they should move easily then right?

Yes.

charbilly2001
Jan 26th, 07, 3:29 PM
Heres what I do to get everything centered/seated and get rid of that bound up feeling. I take my impact hammer and give the driveshaft a sharp rap on the weld at the end of the shaft ( this applies to the yoke end only). I turn the shaft 90* and do it again. For the diff end one rap does the trick.

That always does the trick for me. Basically you do that and you've seated everything and all is well.



I misspoke. I use a "striking" hammer not an "impact" hammer. Its WAY different than a carpenters hammer. One shot with the "striking" hammer is normally sufficient. It delivers a powerful blow. Thats why I said to hit the driveshaft on the end weld. You'll dent the shaft if you hit it anywhere else.

JJ'65
Jan 26th, 07, 4:09 PM
Shuld be no perceptible "play", but NO binding. They don't have to flop over loosely, but resistance should be minimal. Best I can explain it.

My $0.02

furball8994
Jan 26th, 07, 4:12 PM
Shuld be no perceptible "play", but NO binding. They don't have to flop over loosely, but resistance should be minimal. Best I can explain it.

My $0.02

Couldn't have said it better.