: POR-15 compatibility with primer/paint.
Jesse66Original Jul 9th, 02, 12:56 PM After a long decision I am going to have my 66 painted. The car was last painted in September of 1981 with Imron. I hope I can word this post correctly. OK I have removed both the front windshield and rear glass molding, I have some small holes in the front channel (about the size of a pencil). I plan on using POR puddy and por-15 paint in these areas. Here is my concern. If I treat both channels right up to the very top will primer and paint adhere to the por-15? I guess I could leave a 3/8" strip of bare metal along the top to allow for good primer and paint adherence. I did a por-15 search but never saw this question addressed. I did a frame off on this car about three years ago and used por-15 on the frame, loved it, works great. Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks,
Jesse Robertson
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FO_FDYFO Jul 9th, 02, 1:06 PM por-15 has a primer called tie coat. it allows you to put your regular primer or paint over the tie coat. so you could por-15 anywhere necessary then apply tie coat primer over it, then your choice of primer and paint.
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Randy Mosier Jul 9th, 02, 3:53 PM Another thing; be sure to use the Por Fibermesh in conjunction with the putty to repair the holes.
The Tie Coat primer is mainly for areas like the trunk where you have sheetmetal treated with Por 15, and then want to spray the truck splatter paint on top. You can use it underneath automotive finishes, but only sparingly. I would the limit the Por paint to the area of window channel that's under the trim, but take care not to allow the paint line to extend out past the edge of the trim. I think this is what you're talking about, and if so, you'll be okay treating the channel right up to the top.
Jesse66Original Jul 9th, 02, 9:06 PM Thanks guys, Randy you are right on the money. That is my concern exactly.
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m22chevy Jul 9th, 02, 11:10 PM Jesse66, I just finished the same type of repair on my 67. One thing you may want to consider is using All Metal filler instead of the por putty. I believe it's more workable than the por putty and is definately waterproof. I scraped out all of the rust and adhesive in the channel, treated the metal with Metal Ready "phosphoric acid", filled in the tiny holes and pits with the All Metal filler, two coats of por15 semigloss, then two coats of por15 tiecoat primer. It came out totally awesome. After sanding it looks like a new channel. No adhesion problems with the tiecoat primer. I even did a "tape pull" test after the tiecoat and nothing lifted or came up on the tape! Mike, M22
jr71c Jul 10th, 02, 12:04 AM he's right...all metal works great! I used it for some repairs years ago and everything is in excellent condition
MARTINSR Jul 10th, 02, 9:22 AM My angle is simple, stick to ONE brand of products from metal to polish.
I have tried "magic potions" over the years for rust and have always been disapointed.
If I were in an area where rust was a real big problem, maybe I would be trying it, but as I have learned it just isn't worth it.
If you treat rust as PPG, DuPont, Sherwin Williams, etc. tell you to, it will work much better than trying some snake oil and then putting $600.00 of quality paint products over it (which is what the average complete paint costs you).
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Jesse66Original Jul 10th, 02, 6:30 PM Now I am just a bit confused. I have heard nothing but good things about por-15. I also had excelent results using it on my frame a few years back. I only want to use what will work good. The rust is not bad enough to cut and weld. So what is the best product to use to treat rust and fill holes. What about fiber glass with a por-15 top coat. Thanks guys.
Jesse
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Randy Mosier Jul 10th, 02, 7:21 PM MARTINSR is a body man by trade and he has probably seen a nearly infinite number of miracle products that didn't work as advertised. Snake oil is probably too kind a term to use for some these products. But Por is one of the few exceptions, and 99% of the people here who have used it have reported fantastic results. The problems encountered when using Por 15 are usually the result of not following directions.
A lot of the products out there are, as MARTIN described, snake oil. But Por 15 and Eastwood's Corroless have stood the test of time and lots of restos. I say this with all due respect to MARTINSR, and MARTIN, I do value and respect your professional opinion. In fact, I'm following your sheetmetal repair advice to the letter!!
Yes, I have had nothing but good results with Por 15. However Jesse, if you feel like you're getting too much conflicting and confusing information, my advice to you is to follow MARTINSR's lead and perform this repair the way he tells you to, to the letter. I might have a different opinion about the effectiveness of Por 15 or Corroless, but I have no doubts about MARTIN's experience and expertise. If it's too conflicting, go with MARTINSR's advice!!
Jesse66Original Jul 10th, 02, 9:43 PM I do appreciate everyones comments and I will put all this info in a bag and shake it and see what falls out, just joking fellows. One more question please. Will 3m's bytul seal that is used to install windshields and rear glass adhere to por-15? I ask the fellows at the windshield shop here and they don't really know, has anyone tried this procedure? The reason I am asking all these questions is once these areas are buttoned up I don't plan on going back in there I hope.
Thanks very much.
Jesse Robertson
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Big James 4XL Jul 11th, 02, 4:53 PM <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Jesse66Original:
Will 3m's bytul seal that is used to install windshields and rear glass adhere to por-15?
Jesse Robertson
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Don't worry Jessie, that stuff will stick to anything with the possible exception of silicone, oil, etc.
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